Supposedly 90k, but the guy lied a out everything else so I don’t really believe it. He gave me paperwork with it for when the head was replaced under the cam follower warranty, and that said the car had 77k in 2011. I also don’t know how long ago the engine came out of the car. The balance shafts are driven by the oil pump drive chain which runs off a gear on the snout of the crank. Either the chain snapped, causing the shafts to sieze due to lack of oil or the shafts siezed on their own and that caused the chain to snap. The subsequent lack of oiling caused the bearing problems.
Was that a 3 bid win on ebay? Lol
I was bidding on one same description but can’t remember and can’t look right now how much ended to that I lost. My highest bid was $300 giving it had the same description as yours. Bent valves, @100k.
Either way. Keeps us posted on the progress man. Hopefully it won’t be a major pitfall and you can salvage some ding ding in the end of this venture.
I made an offer of $350 that was accepted and I drove to pick it up last weekend in Stamford, CT. I paid via paypal right away, but he refunded me saying he wanted me to just bring cash to avoid fees. I didnt think much of it at the time, but since he refunded me through paypal, I lost all buyer protection from paypal and ebay. According to them the transaction was cancelled when he refunded my money. I can’t even leave feedback on the auction. There should be enough salvageable to still make money on the deal. The block alone is probably worth what I paid for the whole pile.
Shit we were bidding on the same engine then lol.
Well good luck man. Keep us updated on how it’s looking specially when you break everything apart.
Best
Paulo.
Ps.: yeah that’s the sucky part of doing the biz off of PayPal… eBay and PayPal want nothing to do with that. But like you said, you got your money worth paying only $350 on a semi assembled block. With prices as high as 7,8k for these engines there is a good margin there for you. Of course if you are limited to relatively “small stuff” like you mentioned and not having to bore the block and what not, knock on the wood.
I plan on stripping ti down to a bare block tomorrow. I’ll post some pictures when I get a chance. I need to decide what is worth keeping and what is junk. The oil pump/balance shaft assembly would make a good doorstop…
They would. Don’t some guys just remove the balance shaft all together.
Yes, a few have removed the balance shafts and kept the 2.0 oil pump and others remove the entire thing and use a 1.8T oiling system instead.
Just trying to sick up as much info as I can here. Is the thought that the ballance shaft kills hp.
That’s probably one reason to do it, but the more common reason is to simplify the oiling system to increase reliability. The balance shafts are there to cancel out vibrations from the engine. They do this by spinning at twice the speed of the crank. When you’re revving to 7.5k like a lot of us with built motors are, those big lumps of metal are spinning at 15k. There have been a few cases of them seizing and causing problems like in this engine. I’m not sure if they seize on their own or if that is a result of something else such as the oil pump drive chain snapping. Either one will cause the other, so there is no way to tell which happened first.
By removing the balance shaft assembly, you also gain ~2 liters of oil capacity IIRC. The only real cons to doing the 1.8 conversion is the cost of parts and a marginal increase in NVH. Some people have had oil pressure issues with the conversion (Mec wiped a main bearing) but others have been successful. I’m not sure what the cause of that is. I decided that I wasn’t willing to get experimental with an engine I just spent nearly $6k building. Maybe I’ll consider it down the road though.
^^ paragraphs needed 
:-*
As suspected, here’s the broken oil pump drive chain
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsnlzovola.jpg
#3 main bearing was the only bearing to show any damage.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps6infr9zl.jpg
Everything else on the crank looks good. I think I’m going to bring it to the machine shop and get it checked out and polished up before trying to sell it.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsb418zjn4.jpg
Take this comment with a grain of salt and please correct me if I am wrong since I inly look at this briefly.
The way I see it the only reason the 1.8 oil pump conversion would fail is when drilling through the block, this has to be extremely well measured and done to creat a proper New flow, no?
But Is it worth the risk, For 2hp?
It’s been a while sine I’ve read up on it, but I remember there being some blocks that did not need any drilling.
Good information have you ever done this mod.
For as far as I understood aluthman this was required on every FSI block. But like I said I looked at it briefly. My FSI is still in crawling steps to becoming a stage 3, which is when I plan on stripping down to a bare block to build from ground up and I look at this mod. So to answer also at Justin question, no I have not performed this myself.
All my info is based on reading online, hence why: take it with a grain of salt lol
Put this question up on vendorzine or any of the mkv or a3/a4 forums and see what it fishes… Sometimes you do get lucky to hear someone out there that actually know what they are talking about - they are probably from here lmao.
With all that said, hence the technical involvement this would take and the budget involved to get a reputable shop that would know how to do this, I would second though this mod (that’s what I did for me stage 3 project)
Is this block gonna be used for a racing purpose, maybe I would invest in this. For me, spirited drivers/weekend warriors I didn’t see the investment worth the return.
My 2c
Also please note I only researched info for this on a 2.0 FSI. Maybe it’s a different info for tsi engines.
(Sorry for all the bad English on my posts, typing on the phone while working is always a pain lol)
According to the FAQ on IE’s crank girlde kit (which includes the oil pump conversion), some blocks are already drilled. It’s a mounting bolt hole that may need to be drilled for the oil pump chain tensioner.
You live and you learn. I didn’t look at the IE girdle + pump.
I was basing all my research on the usp Motorsport kit only. Since it was the only 1.8t oil pump conversion I found.
Man… Now you put that back in my head! Lol