Then you must not have started from a low enough rpm. Don’t know why else it wouldn’t have occurred. It happens to me without fail and I can replicate it any time.
It’s been confirmed it has nothing to do with the clutch or the flywheel. The clutch continues to work perfectly. The fluid has been flushed many times. And the fluid is the same the brake fluid. If it were a problem, I’d most likelyfeel something wrong in the brakes as well, which are perfectly fine as well. This one is a dousy(sp?) guys.
Looks like the LS1 guys have been having this issue for a while…
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/742741-sticking-clutch-pedal-write-up.html
Pages 1 and 7 are the most fruitful.
Other interesting info from link in page 7…
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1513422-how-prolong-life-your-clutch.html
From what I’ve read I think this is a self adjusting pressure plate issue to which no one has really found a true solution to.
The first thing I’d try to do is make a clutch pedal stop. The engagement point well off the floor anyways. This is a long shot but reducing the pedal travel by say 15% may be enough to keep the damn thing from sticking on the floor. And if the pedal still sticks it will be easier to pull it back out again. Worth a shot?
I’ve known about the LS1 issues since I started researching this. Unfortunately, from what I’ve read, they all claim it’s because of this, or that, that and this (i.e. nothing especially conclusive).
I’ve had the SAC reset, the entire thing taken apart, etc. to no avail. After 7 months, I’ve pretty much tried everything there is to try.
A clutch stop might indeed help by not getting into that situation in the first place (i.e. not fix the problem but not get to the point where it would trigger it) but no one’s made a clutch stop for the B7 that I can see. I guess I could try making my own lol
Oh, and regarding those LS1 problems, most seem to be lazy pedals not coming back fast enough. For me, it’s not lazy. It’s just stuck 1" from the floor with the point of friction about 1/2" from the floor. Technically, I could drive the car perfectly fine like that if I wanted 1" of travel (since everything works as it should).
Then, when I pull the clutch pedal back out, I feel resistance until a certain point where the pedal suddenly snaps back into place. The pedal is never lazy. There’s simply something stopping it from returning into place (as there’s resistance when I pull it back until I pass a certain point where it bounces all the way back into its normal position). And again, when it’s down, the entire stock travel is simply reduced to 1". When it’s stuck down, the clutch isn’t as if the pedal was pressed down. The clutch grabs and everything. So it’s contracting the pedal’s overall travel.
Yeah, they were launches from just under 4000 RPM, ripping through to 7000, then shifting and starting each gear down around 4500-5000 RPM.
Yeah, that’s what I figured. Really freaking weird eh?
my brother’s T/A had issues with the lazy pedal, next time I see him I’ll ask him what he did (he had awesome success with some fix, I just can’t recall the details whatsoever). It may have been separating the brake system from the clutch system.
are rods going into the cylinders replaced when you swap the cylinders?
RS4 having the same problem
what about brake fluid?
axel did you have any work done on your brakes when you started having this problem? same fluid.
Not sure if we discussed that above.
Has nothing to do with brake fluid. Still had OEM brake fluid when it started happening. Since I’ve switched to RBF600 and nothing’s changed.
I’m curious about this “rod” thing. I have no idea what that’s about. Is it part of the cylinder itself?
Edit: Just spoke to my mechanic and he says it is part of the cylinder itself. Another possibility is the fork inside the clutch assembly. Next step is to replace the fork and pressure plate and take it from there. What a PITA.
I asked what the relationship is between the jhm setup and the oem rs4 setup
Anyone?
I don’t think it has anything to do with the JHM setup. And if an OEM RS4 is also having the issue (and from my search, it seems other car makes as well), it seems to be a more generic issue.
I had the exact same issue, especially when running the car hard. I replaced my OEM fluid with this and GONE. My clutch has never stuck since, no matter how hard I drive.
^^ Thanks for your input but I’m using Motul RBF600 which has similar boiling points and nothing changed so I’m guessing we weren’t having the same problem.
Are you sure that JHM doesn’t use any oem rs4 parts on their clutch kit?
How much was it?
I believe only the actual clutch is JHM. All the supporting parts are OEM. Could be wrong I guess but that was my impression.
Edit: You’re referring to the OEM RS4 Pressure Plate. Interesting. I guess that part could be the cause for my and other RS4 stuck pedals. Would make sense.
Almost positive it uses a oem rs4 pressure plate.
Jay told me if I could pull everything and ship to him he’s inspect and replace whatever he could. But I haven’t had the motivation to pull the teams and have it sit for a month. Plus headers seem like pulling the trams would be a real bitch! I can’t even slide the trans out from under the car if I do it on my jacks as there isn’t enough clearance (measured during motor pull).
I doubt it’s the “bent rod” due to the amount of people who have had this issue and amount of replaced parts relating to the slave ( both oem and aftermarket)
JHM already gave me a pressure plate so when I do get around to swapping them, I’ll send them the old one for inspection.
Castrol SRF runs about $75 a bottle in the US, but you can find it online for a bit cheaper (lets say around $60 if you look). You need 2 bottles for a full flush. So, much more expensive than Motul or SuperBlue but the wet boiling point is simply unmatcheable.
When it comes to dry boiling point, all high perf brake fluids are relatively close. It is the wet boiling point that really sets SRF apart and allows it to last much longer (and perhaps be less susceptible to this clutch problem, which I also have at times).
I have used ATE fluid in the past as it is sufficient for my track needs. But, I might try the SRF next spring/summer as I’ll need to at least bleed (might as well flush then) before tracking again.