Has nothing to do with brake fluid. Still had OEM brake fluid when it started happening. Since I’ve switched to RBF600 and nothing’s changed.
I’m curious about this “rod” thing. I have no idea what that’s about. Is it part of the cylinder itself?
Edit: Just spoke to my mechanic and he says it is part of the cylinder itself. Another possibility is the fork inside the clutch assembly. Next step is to replace the fork and pressure plate and take it from there. What a PITA.
I don’t think it has anything to do with the JHM setup. And if an OEM RS4 is also having the issue (and from my search, it seems other car makes as well), it seems to be a more generic issue.
I had the exact same issue, especially when running the car hard. I replaced my OEM fluid with this and GONE. My clutch has never stuck since, no matter how hard I drive.
^^ Thanks for your input but I’m using Motul RBF600 which has similar boiling points and nothing changed so I’m guessing we weren’t having the same problem.
I believe only the actual clutch is JHM. All the supporting parts are OEM. Could be wrong I guess but that was my impression.
Edit: You’re referring to the OEM RS4 Pressure Plate. Interesting. I guess that part could be the cause for my and other RS4 stuck pedals. Would make sense.
Jay told me if I could pull everything and ship to him he’s inspect and replace whatever he could. But I haven’t had the motivation to pull the teams and have it sit for a month. Plus headers seem like pulling the trams would be a real bitch! I can’t even slide the trans out from under the car if I do it on my jacks as there isn’t enough clearance (measured during motor pull).
I doubt it’s the “bent rod” due to the amount of people who have had this issue and amount of replaced parts relating to the slave ( both oem and aftermarket)
Castrol SRF runs about $75 a bottle in the US, but you can find it online for a bit cheaper (lets say around $60 if you look). You need 2 bottles for a full flush. So, much more expensive than Motul or SuperBlue but the wet boiling point is simply unmatcheable.
When it comes to dry boiling point, all high perf brake fluids are relatively close. It is the wet boiling point that really sets SRF apart and allows it to last much longer (and perhaps be less susceptible to this clutch problem, which I also have at times).
I have used ATE fluid in the past as it is sufficient for my track needs. But, I might try the SRF next spring/summer as I’ll need to at least bleed (might as well flush then) before tracking again.
Hi everybody! First post, registered specially to answer your question. Found it when I was looking for pedal adjustment; my clutch is a Sachs.
When I had the original clutch I had the same problem. There is an upgraded vacuum line that solves 90% of the problem. It was really a pain and very worrying, not to mention frustrating, seeing that pedal stick to the floor…
Order a clutch vacuum line and make sure it comes new and it’s not sitting at the dealership’s stock, so it’s surely the new version. It’s a quick job, so don’t let anyone stiff you for that.
Well, quick intro, I’m Alex, from Brazil, living near Turin in Italy. Got a 2007 RS4 Avant, Milltek exhaust (less cats, non resonated) and recently had a Revo remap. It’s my dream car and my daily driver. Back in Brazil me and some friends, including Bruno Senna, founded the Audi S Club, for S/RS/TT owners, almost 10 years ago… I’m also building a prototype road car with the A8’s V8 and a Porsche GT3 transmission.
Thanks for chiming in. However, according to my mechanic, there is no vacuum line in the clutch hydraulics.
There is a pressure hose between the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder which has been replaced with a SS braided line.
There’s also a feed from the brake master cylinder to the clutch master cylinder but if that feed had issues, I wouldn’t even be able to drive the car.