Staying the same silver.
Good choice.
I never replied to this post so here goes.
Left Front:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1697_zpssbpxege3.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1698_zpsogufyn2s.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1696_zpsoflm9ysi.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1703_zpshobeltnv.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1704_zpsshrfsnzq.jpg
Left Rear:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1700_zpsh3s2js3z.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1701_zpsdrzgb7ye.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1699_zpswxpjam0o.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1705_zpsvjojbu71.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1706_zpspj1zo7ih.jpg
I weighed one of the Advan wheels with my 265/35/18 Michelin SS tires. It weighed 46 pounds even. Which is a half a pound lighter than what the Forgestar F14s and same tires weighed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1708_zpsrywgpm2v.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1707_zpsnmkqd8rp.jpg
265 wide tire is pretty damn meaty for a S4.
Yes it is. I want to try something out a little wider probably in the Summer. On my BMW I am going to run some really extremely wide tires all the way around. So I am going to see if they will fit on the S4 too. If they do fit on the S4 then I will buy another set for my BMW but if they don’t then I can just swap them onto the BMW wheels and not have to eat a big loss.
The BMW used 235/50/16 tires from the factory so I can use basically all the same size tires from the S4 on the BMW.
I have been working on installing a new gauge unit for a little while now. There are a few things that I wanted to be able to see that the my old STE PPD unit and current P3 Cars gauge either didn’t/don’t show or show in the order that I wanted to see them in. Such as oil temperature, oil pressure, manifold/boost pressure, intake air temperature after the supercharger, transmission fluid temperature, and rear differential fluid temperature. I wanted to get something that was kind of hidden and easily reversible if I didn’t like it. So I decided to get the Zadatech gauge unit. Fair warning that this is a long update.
To start off with here is most of the Zadatech gauge unit parts that would be installed. The black box at the bottom middle is the main control box that everything gets attached to. Then to the right is the joystick to scroll through the different readings. Above the joystick is the display screen. Moving farther up is the oil pressure sensor, fittings to make the oil pressure sensor work with my engine, and the connector/wiring for the oil pressure switch. The top middle is most of the map sensor/boost sensor stuff like the actual sensor, tubing, a T fitting, and an inline filter. On the left side there is all the different temperature sensors.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1709_zpsuvqrys0a.jpg
Here is a better shot of the temperature sensors. I got the ECStuning oil filter cap and two transmission/rear differential fluid drain plugs. Then drilled a hole through the middle of the those parts, tapped the hole with a 1/8 NPT thread tap, and used Teflon tape on the threads of the sensors when I tightened them to the cap and plugs to prevent leaks. There is a 1/8 NPT threaded bung in the connector piece that goes between the JHM supercharger outlet hose and the MAF boot so I could just screw a sensor right in. As I said before I wanted something that was easily reversible. In the past I have seen how people had bungs welded to the oil pan so that they could run a temperature sensor but with my car being supercharged it is beyond a major PAIN IN THE ASS to remove the oil pan. So I thought that a reading from the oil filter would be pretty accurate and I found a way to not make oil changes annoying. The factory transmission and rear differential drain plugs are 10 mm allen bolts so my plan would not have worked very well with those. It was easier for me to get the ECS drain plugs because they are 17 mm heads which I can easily turn with a wrench even with a temperature sensor screwed into them.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1710_zpsmgvotzuu.jpg
This is most of the electrical supplies that I used to do this install. The only things that are not pictured is a small 20 feet long roll of blue 20 gauge wire and all the heat shrink tubing that I used. I used heat shrinkable butt connectors for the connections of the sensor wiring to the wiring harnesses that I made. There is male and female terminal ends with heat shrinkable crimp sections for the disconnect able sections of the wiring harnesses. I will better explain that later on. Then I had to buy a whole box of crimp able round eyelets when I only needed one. There is an Add-A-Fuse so that I could supply power to the control box. Had to get some 1 amp fuses for the power supply. Then I have three 100 feet long rolls of 20 gauge wire in yellow, red, and black. Later on I decided to not use the yellow wire and instead went back to the store to get a small roll of blue wire to better match what was used by the oil pressure switch wiring from Zadatech. I like to keep the color coding of wires and wiring harnesses if possible to be able to easily identify what is what. This will be really obvious later on when I start stringing the wiring harnesses for the sensors after they have been installed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1755_zpslwyqrzlg.jpg
So the first step was to remove the instrument cluster.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1711_zpsysycmqlp.jpg
Then I had to take the instrument cluster apart. It is three main pieces besides the two smaller side gauges like the fuel and coolant temp. There is the main front cover, the printed circuit board, and the rear backing cover. There are four tiny Torx T10 screws that hold the three big pieces together along with four plastic tabs that hold the front and back together. The stickers on the side also have to be moved out of the way.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1712_zpsjtsneebl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1715_zpst1gibh6x.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1713_zpsrhcngpks.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1714_zpsgbrfaeie.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1716_zps32vt9mvv.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1717_zps4njxgjtq.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1718_zpsak4goazl.jpg
After that I was able to take the rear backing cover off. Which exposed the back of the printed circuit board. Had to disconnect the four electrical connectors from the front cover to the printed circuit board to separate those two pieces.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1719_zpsvi8b9o1f.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1721_zpsxeom8wm5.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1722_zpshu1hsfdk.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1720_zpsaillyk83.jpg
After everything was disconnected I was able to separate the printed circuit board and the front cover. This is what the inside of the front cover and the front of the printed circuit board looks like apart from each other.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1723_zps8qg4fcn3.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1724_zpszuivcdx3.jpg
Moving on, I had to take the tachometer and speedometer gauge needles off. Then take the S4 gauge cover off. There is a metal cover that holds the time and date screen in place so I had to take that off. There are four metal tabs that hold the cover on. Just pop the metal tabs free and take the cover off. Then I could remove the actual screen.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1725_zpsuwrjgfqs.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1727_zpslxxphal1.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1726_zpsupcrhsmu.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1728_zps3bwruome.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1731_zpsu7qks5nj.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1730_zpsu3witdop.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1729_zpse5w8krad.jpg
Now comes the fun part. The Zadatech screen needed me to sand a lot of material away to make enough clearance for the screen to sit flush. The install guide states that you can just glue the screen right into place but it is for a VW and my S4 is different so I went this route. This is the point of no return kind of. If I ever wanted to go back then I could put the old screen back in and they wouldn’t fit perfectly but still fit or I could replace the instrument cluster for like a grand.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1734_zpshycxorms.jpg
I got the Zadatech screen in place, glued, and I found that I could reuse the metal retaining bracket to hold the screen into place. Then I put the S4 gauge cover back on. I cut a small notch in the rear cover for the wiring to go out. Then I put everything back together. The wiring goes behind the retainer for the instrument cluster in the car and I ran it under the dash. I found that the gauge needles need to be put back on in a certain way. It took like four tries to get the tachometer to read correctly. Then the speedometer was off regardless of wherever I put the needle. I settled with it being a little pessimistic at low speeds, accurate between 45-55 mph, and slightly optimistic for higher speeds. Before my speedometer was accurate at like 25 mph and then got progressively more optimistic as I went faster.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1733_zpspmlajeyr.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1732_zpskaegt8e1.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1735_zpsg53atxf1.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1736_zpsfsud8tql.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1737_zps2xkuvo1w.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1738_zpswjmrttro.jpg
Next up is installing the actual sensors.
First up is the oil pressure sensor. The oil pressure sensor is really easy to get to since it is on the back of the oil filter housing. I had to come up with a way to make the factory oil pressure sensor still see oil pressure and then convert the different type of threads to make the Zadatech oil pressure sensor see oil pressure. The factory oil pressure sensor uses M6x1.00 threads so I got a T fitting with one male end and two female ends. The T fitting screwed into the back of the oil filter housing. I used thread sealant on all the threads of the fittings to make sure that I didn’t have any leaks. The oil pressure sensor screwed into the T fitting. The Zadatech oil pressure sensor uses 1/8 NPT threads so I had to convert from the M6x1.00 to 1/8 NPT. To do that I got a black M6x1.00 male to -4 AN male fitting, a blue 90 degree elbow fitting with female -4 AN threads on both ends, and a silver -4 AN male to female 1/8 NPT fitting. That took a while of looking through the available fittings from Summit Racing to figure out. I wanted to angle everything so I had easy access to the sensors in case I ever had to replace one.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1739_zpseqhwk8vs.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1743_zpsptqt2qo4.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1741_zps79manamq.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1744_zps51gmhlod.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1745_zpsp7srbeen.jpg
Second was the oil temperature sensor. It was extremely simple just remove the old plastic factory cap, swap over the filter o-ring, and screw the new oil filter cap and temperature sensor in.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1746_zpsqu5uooul.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1748_zpsijvf3eqo.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1749_zpsiw7qfekt.jpg
Third was the intake air temperature sensor after the supercharger. The JHM SC kit comes with a metal tube that acts as an in between for the SC outlet hose and the normal MAF hose. That tube already had a 1/8 NPT bung that was screwed into place so I just removed the bung and screwed the temperature sensor into place with some Teflon tape - too easy.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1747_zpsn39lb1gx.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1750_zpsiextvwfg.jpg
Fourth and fifth was to install the drain plugs and temperature sensors in the transmission and rear differential. I had to drain the transmission and rear differential fluids out into a clean drain pan so that I could reuse the fluid. The fluid that I use is Motul 75W-90 GL4/5 gear oil so I use the same gear oil in both the transmission and rear differential. Then I installed the drain plugs and temperature sensors and refilled the fluids.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1753_zpsfpuqhpgl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1754_zpshf5geype.jpg
With most of the sensors in place I started stringing the wiring into place. I started with the rear differential temperature sensor wiring because it is the longest by far. I ran a red wire from under the lower dash inside the car to the rear differential. Then I had to find an easy way to duplicate that length so I wrapped the wire around the stainless steel top of my Snap-On tool box and taped it into place. Then I taped one end of a black wire to the same spot on the tool box and then wrapped the wire around the box until it matched the other wire’s length. After I took the tape off then I was left with a bundle of wires. So I put clear heat shrink over the wires and then shrunk the heat shrink down. Next I got the wiring into place and used butt connectors to connect the rear differential temperature sensor connected to the 2 wire wiring harness that I made to connect to the control box. Routed the wiring harness down the left side of the rear subframe, between the gas tank and the left side rear suspension, under the left side lower body panels, up through the engine compartment and the ECU box, into the interior.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1756_zps2tz9rvpz.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1757_zps5ybhl50k.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1758_zpsvp4ooyyb.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1759_zps8zg4aps5.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1760_zps6ulsqitj.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1769_zpsaqp1kjta.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1770_zpsjuo8pedp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1771_zpsjmnoq08p.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1772_zpsiine5n2t.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1773_zpsnhj492yz.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1774_zpscrqbcnr4.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1775_zpsa0htlqh3.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1776_zpsmzmha6bm.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1777_zpskyumvbfx.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1778_zps3b5f6l15.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1779_zpsxwn5ctg2.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1780_zpstfi5hp7p.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1781_zpshp6xtoit.jpg
The other sensors were a lot easier to make wiring harnesses for. To keep everything easily identifiable I used different colored heat shrink tubing for the different wiring harnesses. I used black for the transmission temperature, yellow for the oil temperature, blue for the intake air temperature after the supercharger, and red for the oil pressure. Left the end of the wiring harnesses over by the ABS unit.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1788_zpsnf6l0mtl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1791_zpsezvrlz5q.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1790_zpsbhikgdng.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1796_zpsinoruqrr.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1799_zpsekfln1g5.jpg
After getting the engine compartment work done, I got the body side wiring harnesses made and routed through the ECU box. There is a reason for this. The reason is that the engine compartment parts need to easily disconnected for things like oil changes, removing the engine/transmission for major work, etc. To make the wiring easily disconnected I used male and female terminals with crimped on heat shrinkable ends that I also put heat shrink over. When I installed the terminal ends I staggered the terminal ends so that it is not possible to hook up the wiring the wrong way. I took two pictures of the male and female terminals connected after I took them out of the boxes to better show how they make a connection. Figured that this would be the easiest thing possible for me and I wanted to make this about as idiot resistant just in case anybody else has to work on this at a later date. The best part about this is that everything hides really well under the engine covers.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1803_zpshapv5lvy.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1805_zpssql49opl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1808_zpseiysyihv.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1829_zpsrjxqhipp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1830_zpsdzmtifpu.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1806_zpsaufhjgeo.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1807_zpstkvdj7tq.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1802_zpst4ahfrf8.jpg
I never replied to this post so here goes.
Left Front:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1697_zpssbpxege3.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1698_zpsogufyn2s.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1696_zpsoflm9ysi.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1703_zpshobeltnv.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1704_zpsshrfsnzq.jpg
Left Rear:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1700_zpsh3s2js3z.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1701_zpsdrzgb7ye.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1699_zpswxpjam0o.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1705_zpsvjojbu71.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1706_zpspj1zo7ih.jpg
I weighed one of the Advan wheels with my 265/35/18 Michelin SS tires. It weighed 46 pounds even. Which is a half a pound lighter than what the Forgestar F14s and same tires weighed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1708_zpsrywgpm2v.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1707_zpsnmkqd8rp.jpg
Since the engine compartment side was done then I moved to the interior side.
The interior was kind of a rats nest with all the wiring just hanging loose.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1809_zpsoywyrvuk.jpg
The white/grey wiring that is hanging on the right side of the lower dash is for the joystick. The joystick allows me to switch between the different readings and set the time/date. I ran the joystick wiring through the center console so that the joystick is coming out of the end of the center console. It is pretty hidden and with the armrest down then no one will see the joystick.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1831_zpspnyifkim.jpg
Made a ground wire with a crimp able eyelet for the control box. Connected it to one of the lower A pillar ground points.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1814_zps5sej31vb.jpg
Got an Add-A-Fuse and ran a wire off it with a heat shrinkable butt connector to supply power to the control box. Matin at Zadatech said that it only needed a 1 amp fuse so I got a 1 amp fuse for power supply. Had to think of a fuse to run the control box off because I needed it to only get power when the ignition is on and/or with the engine running so I ran it off the fuel pump fuse. I don’t like this idea after spending time thinking about it more so I will find a different fuse to run the gauge off once I get the car back from some repairs that I can’t/really don’t want to do.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1824_zpshiodzlr7.jpg
Connected all the wiring to the control box including the boost/manifold pressure sensor. For the boost/manifold pressure sensor I cheated and ran another inline filter and T fitting off the vacuum line that I had run for the P3 Cars gauge that I have. The boost/manifold pressure sensor is that round black thing on the front of the seat.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1811_zpstpjfllov.jpg
Secured the control box out of the way to the left of the steering column. To clean up the loose wires I zip-tied them together. Then I secured the wiring to the metal rings on the bottom of the steering column with zip-ties. Finally I put the lower dash/shelf back on and everything was hidden away except for the big red battery relocation cable that I still need to hide under the carpet but all things in due time.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1821_zpsywrvzhia.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1822_zpsrii1cxz7.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1823_zpsi2emstfh.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1825_zpscg5oh9ht.jpg
After all that it was time to see what the readings showed. The first picture is intimal cold start up and then the second picture for each group is after a good long thirty minute drive.
Group 1: engine oil temperature and oil pressure
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1817_zps3gd4wkqp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1826_zpskgxrmofy.jpg
Group 2: boost/manifold pressure and intake air temperature after the supercharger
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1818_zpssg3oub3u.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1827_zpsttsukky1.jpg
Group 3: transmission fluid temperature and rear differential fluid temperature
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1819_zpsnfudme3z.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1828_zpsmvgegrfh.jpg
Notes for what I saw from the readings.
- Oil temperature: The oil temperature started off at ambient and then slowly raised up to around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. It definitely took a lot longer to heat up the oil temperature then the coolant but that is to be expected.
- Oil pressure: I have always wanted to see oil pressure just to see and watch for the health of engine. At cold start up idle the oil pressure was around 70 PSI and then after the engine had warmed up it lowered down to 25 PSI at idle.
- Boost/manifold pressure: The Zadatech gauge and my P3 Cars gauge tend to have a difference of opinion for the manifold pressure reading. The Zadatech gauge reads a little lower than the P3 Cars gauge by like 2 to 3 inches of mercury and half a PSI of boost.
- Intake air temperature after the supercharger: This is the most interesting reading. I say that because the P3 Cars gauge shows me the intake air temperature from the MAF sensor. That pre-supercharger intake air temperature reading tends to climb while sitting still and then cools off as I start moving from the fresh air moving over the sensor. This after supercharger intake air temperature reading tends to stay steady for a while sitting at idle and then raises up drastically when I start moving under heavy load. To put things into perspective, ambient air temperature was 33 degrees and I was seeing 41 degree pre-SC IATs and 77 degree post-SC IATs after just coming to a stop. Then the pre-SC IAT would raise up to 70ish degrees while sitting for most traffic lights. When I took off from a traffic light hard the pre-SC IAT would go back down to 40s degrees and the post-SC IATs would go up to like 96 degrees. If I cruised down the highway then the pre-SC IAT would stay steady at 41 degrees and the post-SC IAT would drop back down to 77 degrees.
5 + 6. Transmission fluid temperature and Rear differential fluid temperature: The Motul GL4/5 gear oil that I use is a good fluid but I want to make sure that I can monitor its health.
265 wide tire is pretty damn meaty for a S4.
Yes it is. I want to try something out a little wider probably in the Summer. On my BMW I am going to run some really extremely wide tires all the way around. So I am going to see if they will fit on the S4 too. If they do fit on the S4 then I will buy another set for my BMW but if they don’t then I can just swap them onto the BMW wheels and not have to eat a big loss.
The BMW used 235/50/16 tires from the factory so I can use basically all the same size tires from the S4 on the BMW.
I have been working on installing a new gauge unit for a little while now. There are a few things that I wanted to be able to see that the my old STE PPD unit and current P3 Cars gauge either didn’t/don’t show or show in the order that I wanted to see them in. Such as oil temperature, oil pressure, manifold/boost pressure, intake air temperature after the supercharger, transmission fluid temperature, and rear differential fluid temperature. I wanted to get something that was kind of hidden and easily reversible if I didn’t like it. So I decided to get the Zadatech gauge unit. Fair warning that this is a long update.
To start off with here is most of the Zadatech gauge unit parts that would be installed. The black box at the bottom middle is the main control box that everything gets attached to. Then to the right is the joystick to scroll through the different readings. Above the joystick is the display screen. Moving farther up is the oil pressure sensor, fittings to make the oil pressure sensor work with my engine, and the connector/wiring for the oil pressure switch. The top middle is most of the map sensor/boost sensor stuff like the actual sensor, tubing, a T fitting, and an inline filter. On the left side there is all the different temperature sensors.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1709_zpsuvqrys0a.jpg
Here is a better shot of the temperature sensors. I got the ECStuning oil filter cap and two transmission/rear differential fluid drain plugs. Then drilled a hole through the middle of the those parts, tapped the hole with a 1/8 NPT thread tap, and used Teflon tape on the threads of the sensors when I tightened them to the cap and plugs to prevent leaks. There is a 1/8 NPT threaded bung in the connector piece that goes between the JHM supercharger outlet hose and the MAF boot so I could just screw a sensor right in. As I said before I wanted something that was easily reversible. In the past I have seen how people had bungs welded to the oil pan so that they could run a temperature sensor but with my car being supercharged it is beyond a major PAIN IN THE ASS to remove the oil pan. So I thought that a reading from the oil filter would be pretty accurate and I found a way to not make oil changes annoying. The factory transmission and rear differential drain plugs are 10 mm allen bolts so my plan would not have worked very well with those. It was easier for me to get the ECS drain plugs because they are 17 mm heads which I can easily turn with a wrench even with a temperature sensor screwed into them.
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This is most of the electrical supplies that I used to do this install. The only things that are not pictured is a small 20 feet long roll of blue 20 gauge wire and all the heat shrink tubing that I used. I used heat shrinkable butt connectors for the connections of the sensor wiring to the wiring harnesses that I made. There is male and female terminal ends with heat shrinkable crimp sections for the disconnect able sections of the wiring harnesses. I will better explain that later on. Then I had to buy a whole box of crimp able round eyelets when I only needed one. There is an Add-A-Fuse so that I could supply power to the control box. Had to get some 1 amp fuses for the power supply. Then I have three 100 feet long rolls of 20 gauge wire in yellow, red, and black. Later on I decided to not use the yellow wire and instead went back to the store to get a small roll of blue wire to better match what was used by the oil pressure switch wiring from Zadatech. I like to keep the color coding of wires and wiring harnesses if possible to be able to easily identify what is what. This will be really obvious later on when I start stringing the wiring harnesses for the sensors after they have been installed.
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So the first step was to remove the instrument cluster.
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Then I had to take the instrument cluster apart. It is three main pieces besides the two smaller side gauges like the fuel and coolant temp. There is the main front cover, the printed circuit board, and the rear backing cover. There are four tiny Torx T10 screws that hold the three big pieces together along with four plastic tabs that hold the front and back together. The stickers on the side also have to be moved out of the way.
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After that I was able to take the rear backing cover off. Which exposed the back of the printed circuit board. Had to disconnect the four electrical connectors from the front cover to the printed circuit board to separate those two pieces.
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After everything was disconnected I was able to separate the printed circuit board and the front cover. This is what the inside of the front cover and the front of the printed circuit board looks like apart from each other.
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Moving on, I had to take the tachometer and speedometer gauge needles off. Then take the S4 gauge cover off. There is a metal cover that holds the time and date screen in place so I had to take that off. There are four metal tabs that hold the cover on. Just pop the metal tabs free and take the cover off. Then I could remove the actual screen.
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Now comes the fun part. The Zadatech screen needed me to sand a lot of material away to make enough clearance for the screen to sit flush. The install guide states that you can just glue the screen right into place but it is for a VW and my S4 is different so I went this route. This is the point of no return kind of. If I ever wanted to go back then I could put the old screen back in and they wouldn’t fit perfectly but still fit or I could replace the instrument cluster for like a grand.
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I got the Zadatech screen in place, glued, and I found that I could reuse the metal retaining bracket to hold the screen into place. Then I put the S4 gauge cover back on. I cut a small notch in the rear cover for the wiring to go out. Then I put everything back together. The wiring goes behind the retainer for the instrument cluster in the car and I ran it under the dash. I found that the gauge needles need to be put back on in a certain way. It took like four tries to get the tachometer to read correctly. Then the speedometer was off regardless of wherever I put the needle. I settled with it being a little pessimistic at low speeds, accurate between 45-55 mph, and slightly optimistic for higher speeds. Before my speedometer was accurate at like 25 mph and then got progressively more optimistic as I went faster.
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Next up is installing the actual sensors.
First up is the oil pressure sensor. The oil pressure sensor is really easy to get to since it is on the back of the oil filter housing. I had to come up with a way to make the factory oil pressure sensor still see oil pressure and then convert the different type of threads to make the Zadatech oil pressure sensor see oil pressure. The factory oil pressure sensor uses M6x1.00 threads so I got a T fitting with one male end and two female ends. The T fitting screwed into the back of the oil filter housing. I used thread sealant on all the threads of the fittings to make sure that I didn’t have any leaks. The oil pressure sensor screwed into the T fitting. The Zadatech oil pressure sensor uses 1/8 NPT threads so I had to convert from the M6x1.00 to 1/8 NPT. To do that I got a black M6x1.00 male to -4 AN male fitting, a blue 90 degree elbow fitting with female -4 AN threads on both ends, and a silver -4 AN male to female 1/8 NPT fitting. That took a while of looking through the available fittings from Summit Racing to figure out. I wanted to angle everything so I had easy access to the sensors in case I ever had to replace one.
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Second was the oil temperature sensor. It was extremely simple just remove the old plastic factory cap, swap over the filter o-ring, and screw the new oil filter cap and temperature sensor in.
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Third was the intake air temperature sensor after the supercharger. The JHM SC kit comes with a metal tube that acts as an in between for the SC outlet hose and the normal MAF hose. That tube already had a 1/8 NPT bung that was screwed into place so I just removed the bung and screwed the temperature sensor into place with some Teflon tape - too easy.
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Fourth and fifth was to install the drain plugs and temperature sensors in the transmission and rear differential. I had to drain the transmission and rear differential fluids out into a clean drain pan so that I could reuse the fluid. The fluid that I use is Motul 75W-90 GL4/5 gear oil so I use the same gear oil in both the transmission and rear differential. Then I installed the drain plugs and temperature sensors and refilled the fluids.
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With most of the sensors in place I started stringing the wiring into place. I started with the rear differential temperature sensor wiring because it is the longest by far. I ran a red wire from under the lower dash inside the car to the rear differential. Then I had to find an easy way to duplicate that length so I wrapped the wire around the stainless steel top of my Snap-On tool box and taped it into place. Then I taped one end of a black wire to the same spot on the tool box and then wrapped the wire around the box until it matched the other wire’s length. After I took the tape off then I was left with a bundle of wires. So I put clear heat shrink over the wires and then shrunk the heat shrink down. Next I got the wiring into place and used butt connectors to connect the rear differential temperature sensor connected to the 2 wire wiring harness that I made to connect to the control box. Routed the wiring harness down the left side of the rear subframe, between the gas tank and the left side rear suspension, under the left side lower body panels, up through the engine compartment and the ECU box, into the interior.
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The other sensors were a lot easier to make wiring harnesses for. To keep everything easily identifiable I used different colored heat shrink tubing for the different wiring harnesses. I used black for the transmission temperature, yellow for the oil temperature, blue for the intake air temperature after the supercharger, and red for the oil pressure. Left the end of the wiring harnesses over by the ABS unit.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1788_zpsnf6l0mtl.jpg
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After getting the engine compartment work done, I got the body side wiring harnesses made and routed through the ECU box. There is a reason for this. The reason is that the engine compartment parts need to easily disconnected for things like oil changes, removing the engine/transmission for major work, etc. To make the wiring easily disconnected I used male and female terminals with crimped on heat shrinkable ends that I also put heat shrink over. When I installed the terminal ends I staggered the terminal ends so that it is not possible to hook up the wiring the wrong way. I took two pictures of the male and female terminals connected after I took them out of the boxes to better show how they make a connection. Figured that this would be the easiest thing possible for me and I wanted to make this about as idiot resistant just in case anybody else has to work on this at a later date. The best part about this is that everything hides really well under the engine covers.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1803_zpshapv5lvy.jpg
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It definitely is. I’m running 18x9 30 offset wheels with 265/35 tires and they barely fit up front. I had to apply -1.5* of camber to avoid any rubbing. Jimmy is running a 25 offset too which I’m actually running in the back because I had to get 5mm spacers due to my wheels not fitting the JHM rear rotors. I’m running -2.5* of camber in the rear and they still rub on big highway dips or if there’s too many girls in the car. Been thinking about getting the fenders and quarter panels modified to more of a wide body stance. Not a fan of how the car drives with the added camber.
Looks good Jimmy. Are you planning on leaving them poking or are you going to get them more flush one way or another?
Since the engine compartment side was done then I moved to the interior side.
The interior was kind of a rats nest with all the wiring just hanging loose.
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The white/grey wiring that is hanging on the right side of the lower dash is for the joystick. The joystick allows me to switch between the different readings and set the time/date. I ran the joystick wiring through the center console so that the joystick is coming out of the end of the center console. It is pretty hidden and with the armrest down then no one will see the joystick.
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Made a ground wire with a crimp able eyelet for the control box. Connected it to one of the lower A pillar ground points.
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Got an Add-A-Fuse and ran a wire off it with a heat shrinkable butt connector to supply power to the control box. Matin at Zadatech said that it only needed a 1 amp fuse so I got a 1 amp fuse for power supply. Had to think of a fuse to run the control box off because I needed it to only get power when the ignition is on and/or with the engine running so I ran it off the fuel pump fuse. I don’t like this idea after spending time thinking about it more so I will find a different fuse to run the gauge off once I get the car back from some repairs that I can’t/really don’t want to do.
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Connected all the wiring to the control box including the boost/manifold pressure sensor. For the boost/manifold pressure sensor I cheated and ran another inline filter and T fitting off the vacuum line that I had run for the P3 Cars gauge that I have. The boost/manifold pressure sensor is that round black thing on the front of the seat.
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Secured the control box out of the way to the left of the steering column. To clean up the loose wires I zip-tied them together. Then I secured the wiring to the metal rings on the bottom of the steering column with zip-ties. Finally I put the lower dash/shelf back on and everything was hidden away except for the big red battery relocation cable that I still need to hide under the carpet but all things in due time.
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After all that it was time to see what the readings showed. The first picture is intimal cold start up and then the second picture for each group is after a good long thirty minute drive.
Group 1: engine oil temperature and oil pressure
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Group 2: boost/manifold pressure and intake air temperature after the supercharger
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Group 3: transmission fluid temperature and rear differential fluid temperature
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Notes for what I saw from the readings.
- Oil temperature: The oil temperature started off at ambient and then slowly raised up to around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. It definitely took a lot longer to heat up the oil temperature then the coolant but that is to be expected.
- Oil pressure: I have always wanted to see oil pressure just to see and watch for the health of engine. At cold start up idle the oil pressure was around 70 PSI and then after the engine had warmed up it lowered down to 25 PSI at idle.
- Boost/manifold pressure: The Zadatech gauge and my P3 Cars gauge tend to have a difference of opinion for the manifold pressure reading. The Zadatech gauge reads a little lower than the P3 Cars gauge by like 2 to 3 inches of mercury and half a PSI of boost.
- Intake air temperature after the supercharger: This is the most interesting reading. I say that because the P3 Cars gauge shows me the intake air temperature from the MAF sensor. That pre-supercharger intake air temperature reading tends to climb while sitting still and then cools off as I start moving from the fresh air moving over the sensor. This after supercharger intake air temperature reading tends to stay steady for a while sitting at idle and then raises up drastically when I start moving under heavy load. To put things into perspective, ambient air temperature was 33 degrees and I was seeing 41 degree pre-SC IATs and 77 degree post-SC IATs after just coming to a stop. Then the pre-SC IAT would raise up to 70ish degrees while sitting for most traffic lights. When I took off from a traffic light hard the pre-SC IAT would go back down to 40s degrees and the post-SC IATs would go up to like 96 degrees. If I cruised down the highway then the pre-SC IAT would stay steady at 41 degrees and the post-SC IAT would drop back down to 77 degrees.
5 + 6. Transmission fluid temperature and Rear differential fluid temperature: The Motul GL4/5 gear oil that I use is a good fluid but I want to make sure that I can monitor its health.
Get lighter girls…hahahaha
Thanks, I am planning on just leaving them. Since those pictures I have gone back and readjusted the ride height to 25-1/2" all the way around except for the left rear is 25-3/4" for some weird reason. The camber is only -1 degrees all the way around. I don’t notice any rubbing with these tires. Just swapped on my 18x9 ET 25 Team Dynamics wheels with 255/40/18 Blizzacks that I got from Euro and they do rub a little on big dips.
It is weird that you say that about the rear brake rotors. Initially I wanted to run my old Forgestar wheels with my Michelin PA3 235/40/18 tires but the wheels have a really sharp edge on the inside of the barrel of the wheel that hits the lip of the rear BBK rotor. I need like 8 mm spacers to push the wheel out enough to get clearance.
If he is stacking girls like that then I wouldn’t complain.
It definitely is. I’m running 18x9 30 offset wheels with 265/35 tires and they barely fit up front. I had to apply -1.5* of camber to avoid any rubbing. Jimmy is running a 25 offset too which I’m actually running in the back because I had to get 5mm spacers due to my wheels not fitting the JHM rear rotors. I’m running -2.5* of camber in the rear and they still rub on big highway dips or if there’s too many girls in the car. Been thinking about getting the fenders and quarter panels modified to more of a wide body stance. Not a fan of how the car drives with the added camber.
Looks good Jimmy. Are you planning on leaving them poking or are you going to get them more flush one way or another?
Lol. 3-4 girls equals 300-400 lbs. All it really takes is 100 lbs.
I’m not 
Oh wow, you went with 8mm spacers? That lip on the rotor was keeping the wheel mating surface from sitting flush for me. If the diameter of it were increased a few millimeters it wouldn’t have been a problem. But when I measured it I thought I remember it being a 5mm tall lip so I would bet you could go to 5mm spacers if you wanted to.
Get lighter girls…hahahaha