About the same as two avus silver rs4s meeting in Canada today ?
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo193/sakimano/Screenshot_2015-01-30-20-31-25-1_zpsergssrfy.png
Of course!! The one guy on here who could match those odds.
Great pics both of you.
Mine wasn’t random if I’m being honest. Bangoman and I met for haggis and fish and chips 
LOL.
Still chasing the bloody stutter at low engine loads.
Here’s what I have so far:
- Worst when cold and trying to keep a steady speed in high(er) gears. Very bad stutter. Alleviated for the most part by giving more throttle and backing off. Weaving a few mph back and forth. No fun. When warm, hesitation persists at very low revs, say 900-1200 in 2nd gear.
- No misfires are being detected
- VCDS shows long term lambda adaptation slightly negative at -0.2% for idle and +1.2% partial. Not indicative of a vacuum leak.
- Logging on the road, lambda corrections are mostly negative during cruise and idle, from around 0 to as much as -10% but it varies quite a lot, average I saw probably -3 or -4%. Again, opposite of a vacuum leak. Full throttle a slightly positive correction.
- During stuttering no abnormal lambda values were observed. They were matching the ECU’s requested values (usually 1.00)
What was replaced before the stutter started:
- Spark plugs (NKG for Bosch)
- 8 new ignition coils
- Used throttle body (according to my mech, tested fully functional)
- New MAF.
ECU is not giving me any codes to work with. It’s all clean aside from an intermittent starter relay fault on cold starts. Already figured out the likely culprits for that and will all be replaced including the starter next time around.
Having a hard time imagining OEM spark plugs which Audi says are OK for the car causing a stutter. But I don’t see how a throttle body would create this stutter either?
900-1200 RPM are very low for these cars
The shutter/hesitation your chasing may very well be your car “bogging.” That would definitely more noticeable when cold but you may be driving around in a higher gear than these engines like.
Yeah exactly. I will try that later and make a video.
Well when cold it’s stuttering like mad at a steady 2500rpm, certainly that isn’t low…
Oh, I did find some misfires now.
On bank 2 only, happened only once across multiple cylinders at exactly the same time (same miles, not exactly the same moment)
1 misfire on cyl. 7 at 1620 rpm / 49% load speed 1.0 km/h.
1 misfire on cyl. 3 at 809 rpm / 26% load speed 4.0 km/h.
This happened about 45 miles ago, so nothing after that.
Very odd?
Actually cyls 3 and 7 are on opposite banks, it’s just that these kind of faults only seem to be stored in ECU II.
Did you ever check the carbon issue to see if there is a lot. Don’t rule out the vac leak but definitely keep looking at other areas. Try unplugging the maf next time your in the car and see if that changes anything.
No, as I can’t do that myself and would require leaving the car for several days. It would also not explain why the car ran perfectly fine before several parts were replaced. Carbon doesn’t build up massively overnight or in the space of a few miles…
I will say that I’ve noticed twice now that doing a TB alignment in VCDS seems to “cure” the problem at least when I drive it right after. I did an alignment, starter the car cold and did a little test drive and all seemed well. Just like the last time I did it, except the next morning the problem was back all the same.
It’s the only used part that was fitted to the car so maybe it’s the most likely culprit as well. Just not straight forward to nail it down as I can’t swap it with another for the time being.
Sounds like it could be the parts but did the weather change drastically around the same time. Try the maf unplugging and see if that helps.
Regardless if you’re in the 900-1200RPM range you are definitely bogging the fuck out of the car. I tried that range this morning on the way to work (17F) for shits… and the car hated it.
I also wouldn’t look into one misfire on two cylinder until it actually seems like a reoccurring problem.
This morning it misfired pretty much as soon as the engine started. Nothing to do with bogging, the clutch was still in.
Revs dropped to 1400 (from ~1600 high idle the first 30s) for a moment after which the MIL started blinking and then stayed on. Drove off and engine was rough/shaky/unbalanced. Felt like it was running on 7 rather than 8.
After half a mile or so I pulled over, turned it off, restarted and the MIL was gone and engine running smoothly again on all 8.
Given that it has both new plugs and new coils, ignition shouldn’t be the issue…
this sounds exactly like what Mistro was going through. PM him and ask him to comment
Log your misfire blocks for all cylinders from the point you start the car. Does it only show misfire counts increasing for the first 90 seconds?
The only time misfires have shown up as error codes, I had seen the MIL blinking straight after startup. So the detected misfires did occur right after startup, within the first couple of seconds, yes.
The severe stuttering at (low) partial load is not creating any actual misfires as far as the ECU is concerned. But it will do it even after driving 10 mins and the oil temp being 60-70 degrees C. It’s not a “cold only” issue in that regard. It just goes away when engine is at full operating temp and I’ve given it the beans once or twice.
That can be an injector issue most guys see carbon issues flair up in start up.
Here’s a suggestion try unplugging your maf once it starts happening. See if it gets worse better or the same.
It’s at the mechanic for a couple of days, will get the other type of spark plugs back as well as a new fuel filter.
After that I’ll give it a try, might even put the old MAF back and see if it makes a difference. The weather didn’t really change significantly between the first days I drove it (without issue) and when I got it back behaving stuttery.