You should be able to check signal in and out of the controller. That should help verify if the controller is working
Get a spare batt or run leads to the solenoid and dry fire them with 12v constant. Then to test the controller you can test it by powering it up and sending 5v in and measuring the voltage out.
Jeffery, definitely check the solenoids, on their own power supply. Double check for the correct voltages. If something got hooked up to the box wrong, it could have caused the controller to have issues. Check everything else first and then, if we need to we can get the controller inspected.
I’ve tested each solenoid. I’m going to have to test the controller. I’ve been busy starting a new job.
Hey guys still working on it. Jake over at JHM sent me these testing instructions. I figured i would post them here for reference. Those guys are great ;D
NOTE: This needs to be done in this order with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter like a Fluke (NOT ANALOG NEEDLE TIME). If your inputs are wrong you will never have outputs that function. IMPORTANT! Do all tests with the bottle closed and NO nitrous in the lines.
· CONFIRM POWER FROM THE SWITCH TO THE CONTROLLER AND BOTH GROUNDS ARE GOOD FOR THE CONTROLLER. ALSO CONFIRM POWER TO THE SOLENOIDS
· INPUT CHECK -Check that when you floor the throttle (WOT) with the key on engine off you see the voltage increase to over 4 volts on the white/blue wire (TPS signal that connects to the ECU). If you don’t think the throttle is opening, you can remove the throttle body boot from the t body temporarily and view that the plates fully open during this test. If not you may need to do the test while driving. If you do not see the voltage to the unit then it is wired wrong…
· INPUT CHECK -Check that when the car is running you get a signal change upon revving the engine to 4000 or so rpm with your meter in duty cylcle mode on the green wire (RPM signal that connects to the ECU). If the duty cycle does not change drastically then something is wired wrong.
· DO NOT PROCEED TO OUTPUT CHECKS UNTIL BOTH INPUTS ARE WORKING AND VERIFIED.
· OUTPUT CHECK - Check that the BIG blue wire gets grounded when the car is at WOT and above 4000 rpm. This will have to be done while driving. This can be done with a test light by putting one end on the positive side of the battery and the other to the BIG blue wire which grounds the solenoids to actuate them. If this does not work you will need to confirm the inputs one last time and then send the unit in for bench testing on my end. I am setup to duplicate the car environment and do tests when I pre configure the unit before shipping out.
Did you ever get a chance to test the system yet.
I tested it 3 times in the car. I was going to bench test it but Jake said he would do it if I paid shipping. I’m pissed off at that little box and going through a shit ton of shrink wrap and solder so I sent it back today
Got this beotch working. Whatever that cool guy named Jake did worked magic. Pulls hard. SUPA cool
what… so you sprayed the car today.
EXACTLY!
WOOT
Awesome!!!
Do these kits work with the FSI engines?
The fsi heads are st a angle and the plates won’t work.
Ah, OK
thanks
do u have any plans to dyno or 1/4 mile test it and report back some numbers??
what do you need to know? This was all done 4 years ago by JHM and their earliest customers.
Yes I was one of them. If your kit is a 75 kit expect 75 to the wheels.
ya I was just curious on the size of shot and actual power gains, ETs and so on. it never occurred to me to put nitrous on an audi. I mean absolutely no disrespect when I say this but seems kinda ricey to me, but if it works well its likely the cheapest way to add 75 to the wheels so good show!
It has a bad rap from movies and Honda rice runners. The JHM kit is the top way you can use and deliver NO2. Every few months on another website you would see some guy who would make a ton of posts just to try and tell you how smart he was would come and tell every how he was going to run nitrous. then a few months later you never see or hear from them because they blew there motor.
I have had and have another blower car. NO2 is different it’s throttle in a bottle. Use the power when you want it.
is this on a rs4? is a 75 shot the top of the “safety” zone?