JHM Part's Review, Lets do a run-through (plus some others)!

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

Okay, so the point of this is just my personal experience on all the JHM parts I have. I’ve acquired many over the past 3 years, and I thought it would be nice to have a listing of the parts and my experience with them. Take it or leave it, this is just a happy customer who’s been enthusiastic about their car for quite some time.

I’ll try to go in chronological order since that’s how my expense history is also listed.

10/15/08 - 48k - H-Sport Rear Sway Bar for B6/B7

[INDENT]This was my first real performance mod, and coming from a RWD car, the understeer in this platform is blatantly obvious. I was a bit skeptical how much it would make a difference, but to my surprise, the car responded quite well. I set mine on the “aggressive” setting from the beginning and have never looked back, nor have I broken any of the sway end links (knock on wood).

You still have a bit of understeer, but it does dial it back a good bit, and that was my goal. If understeer is a issue to you, it’s a great mod, and only do the rear, as adding the front will dial the understeer back in (but also bring a lot of composure and response to the front end). Doing the full set (I’m told) is a significant improvement, and great for track orientation, but swapping out the rear only is how you get it more tail happy.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/H-sport_Sway_bar_kit.jpg
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11/15/08 - 49k - AWE Sport Pedals (JHM did not offer pedals at the time, but they do now, and they honestly look like a nicer set then the AWE and a better value)

[INDENT]The downshift. . . Blipping the throttle in this car is not easy with stock pedals regardless of what say. It’s a common issue, and replacing the pedals really do help this. The reason it helps is b/c most all of the aftermarket pedals raise the gas pedal height once installed. Not significantly, but it’s enough to make a difference. This really made a difference in how I could drive the car as I didn’t have to contort my leg to blip the throttle while braking. And to me, it also added a subtle look that was a nice touch for those who catch a glimpse.

http://www.jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/pedals/JHM_SRP_Pedals_Installed.jpg
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12/15/08 - 51k - H&R C.O. (purchased used through classifieds)

[INDENT]I did this mainly for the appearance of lowering the car. I wanted to increase handling some, but track purpose wasn’t a main concern. After installing these, I’ve been very happy. They’re a good set for the money, and allow for ride height adjustment. Changing the front height is pretty easy on most any c.o. option, but the rears are a pain as the subframe has to be lowered (and does on most all c.o. option I believe as it is not a “true” c.o. in the rear). If I had to do it again, I would. They were a great value, gave me all I wanted and more, and seems to be a pretty quality part. They are stiff (and can not be adjusted as some others can), but I personally like the ride and performance of the kit. (alignment is a must after any suspension work as well)

http://3werks.com/Audi/images/HR%20coilovers.jpg
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12/15/2008 - 51k - JHM Short Shifter (extra short throw with stiff springs installed)

[INDENT]What can I say that others can’t? This really is (in my opinion) the absolute best shifter made for our cars. Once you have it in hand, and see the design, craftsmanship, and quality of parts being used, it clear. I’ve had this for several years now and I still love it. I didn’t install it (and I know the install is tricky for first time users), so I can’t shed much light on that. But I can tell you that as one of my early mods to the car, it’s still one of my favorite. It’s just so much better than almost any other shifter that I’ve driven with. I recently did the “trio pkg” and my performance shop was in amazement at how it felt when they pulled the car around. He said he’d never felt a shifter like that.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/b6_6speed_shifter_shaft.jpg
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12/23/08 - 51k - Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs, Gear Oil, Oil Change - all done at 50k, no longer in warranty

[INDENT]I know this isn’t performance parts, but I just want to emphasis the importance of doing preventative maintenance on this car. This is a high performance german sedan, it should be treated as such. Just b/c Audi says 15k, or 50k for this or that, it is of my feeling it is well worth my time and money to replace parts much more frequently then that. Arguments can fly around this, but I have the peace of mind knowing I’m keeping the car in the best shape that I can, and hopefully preventing extra wear on other parts and reducing malfunctions. I plan on keeping the car probably to 150k, and b/c of that, I want it to be in top shape.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6-B7_S4_Fuel_Filter_OEM.jpg
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Winter 2008 - 52k - Front Window Regulator

[INDENT]Yeep, they go out for sure. It’ll start off with the window not always going all the way up with the “auto” feature. Or possibly by making a grinding/crunching noise (It’s usually where the partially frayed metal wire is cutting/grinding into the plastic pulley assembly). After you do it once or twice, replacement is pretty easy, but the first time is a bit daunting if you’ve never done work like that before. One thing to watch out for (if you have tinted windows) is to be very careful with moving the window during the install of the regulator, as well as re-installing it in the car. The second regulator I replaced, I scratched the tint on my window b/c I wasn’t paying enough attention.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6-B7_S4_window_regulator_front_left_8E0837461C.jpg
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7/1/09 - 56k - Lubro Moly 5W40

[INDENT]Now that the car wasn’t being serviced by the dealer anymore, and I had begun to be active on the forums, I decided it would be the right decision to switch to a higher quality oil and increase the service intervals. I’ve never had chain rattle (knock on wood) and have been very happy with the product. The price is expensive, but all quality oils are. I feel that you get what you pay for (most of the time at least), and when it came to oil, it’s well worth my oil. I also started using a Pella Oil Extractor at the time. It works well, but b/c I’m paranoid, I would still change my oil the old fashion way every third change. But if you measure the quantity the extractor pulled out, it almost exactly matched what should be in, and 9.5 qts always put me right back to med part of the fill line. Once I removed the drain plug and had little to nothing seep out. But now that I have access to a lift, it’s easier to do it the old fashion way, but with parking lots at school the pella was ideal.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6B7_S4_Oil_Change_Kit_w_drain_plug_ring.jpg
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1/4/10 - 60k - Apikol Rear Diff Mount

[INDENT]As others have said, this really does clean up some of the drivetrain slop, and is especially noticeable between the 1-2 shift. Install is pretty easy with a set of ramps, jack stands, and jack. But most of all, it works! Nothing game changing here, but any extra slop or vibration between transitions (of power, shifts, bumps etc) means more wear on parts usually. And this just tightens everything up. If ya got it in the group discount last week, then I’m sure you’ll soon see what I’m referring to. Not the first mod I recommend doing, but it’s great to throw on your list and knock out when you have some other maintenance issues to look at. Also good to change your rear diff fluid while you’re back there. Also pretty straightforward and nice peace of mind (and this is when I did mine).

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/184717_10150143264293487_110502183486_8056306_812086_n.jpg
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1/4/10 - 60k - JHM 4:1 Center Diff Upgrade

[INDENT]First off, for clarification, ALL of the B6 & only the manual B7’s that are 2005.5 only, have the 50:50 power split (all the automatics cars have this 50:50 split). Since I’m a 2005.5 I fall into this category. And since I mentioned, I miss the tail happy nature of RWD cars, this had been on my list for a while. This is THE EXACT SAME as the Stasis 4:1 diff, but $200 bucks cheaper. And I had seen a writeup on another platform about being able to buy the different washers and change out yourself, but that’s a can of worms I didn’t want to open. The swap out was pretty straight forward, and honestly, my biggest challenge was removing the driveshaft from the rear of the center diff (kind of a vacuum effect with the grease and the flexible joint makes it tough to get a good pull), that and the differential bolt at 12 o’clock. After it’s out, it’s just a matter of swapping the cores, bolting it up, and refilling the oil. I was also pleasantly surprised with the response of the car here. Again, nothing game changing, but for a b^ or a 2005.5 B7 to do the rear sway, center diff, and rear diff mount, I think they’d really be surprised at how the rear end is able to move around a bit more and how it pulls some of the understeer out of the car. (also a good time to do a fluid drain and swap, not all the oil will drain out when just changing diff)

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_4_to_1_Center_Diff.jpg
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1/4/10 - 60k - Hawk HPS Street Pads, F&R

[INDENT]My pads were due for a change so I thought this would be a good performance route to go. This was my first time to ever touch a brakes and honestly, it wasn’t that bad. Having the right tools is key (i.e. the rear calipers need to have a brake tool that can spin them in the proper direction for each caliper to push the caliper back for clearance of the new pads), and patience with any stubborn bolts is also important. Since I was only doing pads here, the brake fluid did not need to be bled or refilled. Doing only pads and rotors is a pretty straight forward job and the average DIY-er shouldn’t hesitate to tackle this.

However, the one thing to make sure you do (as mentioned in another thread) is to BED THE PADS IN PROPERLY and make it the first thing you do. Plan your schedule so you can make this happen. I finished up around midnight and it made it very easy to go bed them in properly. Also, waiting a day or after the first bedding procedure and doing it again is a good idea. Often, some rotors or pads have a small first coating to protect them and to react to the bed in procedure. You need to remove these coatings (if they have it) as the first thing you do after the installation. And make sure never to come to a full stop when bedding them or to use the parking brake when done. (i.e. in gear on flat road and let cool for 15 min after done. Your pads, or manufacture should have specific info on this) Also, don’t think more is better when it comes to the speed recommend for breaking the pads in, follow the directions, and you’ll be fine.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/Hawk_HPS_pads.jpg
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1/4/10 - 60k - Adams Slotted & Dimpled Rotors F&R

[INDENT]I did these at the same time as my Hawk Pads. It’s tough to say how much bite the pads gave vs the grooving in the new rotors. Mostly was the pads for sure, but slotted rotors will certainly eat at pads quicker. These rotors are a good value for a look past oem, but their main purpose is appearance. I did have some increased noise, a slight hissing sound, when braking, and I believe that is due to the dimples or slots, it’s common and didn’t bother me. That said, I was happy with them for the time period that I had them, and they served me well. Install is pretty easy once you’re doing pads. One of my OEM rotors was frozen on, and it took a couple knocks with some wood & a hammer, but otherwise all went smooth.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d97/killahcortez/black_zinc_lg.jpg
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#2

1/4/10 - 60k - JHM Intake Spacers

[INDENT]This wasn’t a bad install at all between the JHM DVD and Joey’s writeup. This isn’t a part that just jumps out at you performance wise, but it will help keep your air temps down as your motor temps begin to rise since it separates the block from the intake manifold by using the spacers so that heat doesn’t transfer as easily and thus reduces the air coming through the manifold being heated. If nothing else, I feel this is a great mod for performance guys to have the chance to pull their manifold, clean their ports (not like the RS4 guys, but you’ll still have some deposits) and just gain a better understanding of all the vacuum systems and how your car works. For the price, I have no complaints since it helps keep temps down, which is certainly an issue for me down here in the south. (also, if serp belt needs replacing, it’s a great time to do this b/c the car needs to be in “service” position for both jobs)

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_4.2L_Intake_Spacers.jpg
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1/4/10 - 60k - JHM Light Weight Crank Pulley

[INDENT]I needed to replace my serpentine belt and this seemed like an obvious addition to help reduce some of the rotating mass. JHM markets this just as what it is, a nice way to free up some power and let the engine rev a little more free by reducing un-needed mass. When you get to see this part in person, you’ll really see this isn’t just a similar pulley with some parts cut out. This is a piece perfectly balanced to OEM but at a significant reduction in the weight. Maybe it was a bit of the placebo effect, but I could instantly tell that in neutral, the engine just jumped a bit more during each rev. Even in downshifts, I had to throttle back some to get them to match up perfectly. It’s also a good idea to do your pulley tensioner at the same time. I didn’t but it is a good idea to do it at the time. (You will need "triple square bits for this job, I bought mine online, but some auto parts stores will carry them on occasion. I got a larger set for a better deal online though).

http://jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/CrankPulley/JHM_B6-B7_S4_Lightweight_Pulley_Compare.jpg
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1/4/10 - 60k - Valve Cover Gasket Kit

[INDENT]This is a common part that needs servicing on our cars. I wasn’t really consuming any oil in my car, but I figured since I was doing all the other work at this time, it would be worth it to do this as well. I’m glad I did, b/c when I pulled my car into service position, the front of my engine block was just black from baked on oil. I spent probably 2-3 hours just cleaning and scrubbing to remove this b/c I didn’t want to do a job and leave the engine looking like that. The job itself isn’t that bad, just getting the bolts in the back corner are difficult. Proper tools again make all the difference. Also don’t forget the bolts in the center, in fact, do them first so they don’t get extra pressure as you try to get them out last. Also, be careful when tightening back down. I had one break off on me and mean I had to spend a couple hours carefully removing it. They’re not made to hold a lot of torque, so keep that in mind, you don’t want to have to deal with that nightmare. But even if you think your car “isn’t due yet” or “doesn’t burn oil so you don’t need them”, my guess would be to think again and consider knocking them out to keep everything nice and tidy. Once you’re over 50k, there’s a decent chance it won’t hurt to replace them.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6B7S4_Valve_cover_Gasket_Set_w_Spark_Plug_Seals.jpg
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5/28/10 - 70k - JHM Tune. . .

[INDENT]What can I say other than, the car should of come this way from the beginning. I kept putting this off b/c people claiming the dyno numbers show it doesn’t add much power. Well, they couldn’t be more wrong. It may not give a ridiculous peak hp number, but the way the car’s hp is now at your control is simply amazing. The car transformed from a fun sedan to poke around in, to a car that WANTS to be driven and jumps at the opportunity to run through the revs. It’s all about the response and area under the curve. Once you drive (and learn how to re-drive the car with a tune) a JHM tuned car, the evidence of improvement is clear. All the polls and user feedbacks make this resoundingly clear, but I just wanted to emphasis how much the little things matter, and with this tune, it really opens your eyes up to that.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_Tuning.jpg
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5/28/10 - 70k - JHM Ported and Powder-coated Intake Manifold

[INDENT]I had my eye on this for quite a while. Not only is it some amazing eye candy when you open the engine bay, it really does open up the top end of this motor. Instead of the motor kind of dying off to a plateau up top, the power feels like it just continues to climb. This makes perfect sense given the nature and design of the product. It’s not the cheapest mod, and it’s not going to give you 50whp, but it is noticeable for sure. I went ahead and swapped in the “tapered manifold spacers” at this time as well to match with the IM and then sold my original ones. (and just for clarification, my purchase date was the same with the tune, but I had the tune for about a month prior to the IM since it takes a while for them to fill the custom orders)

http://jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/IntakeManifold/JHM_B6B7_S4_Intake_Manifold_Red_Wrinkle_Powdercoat_Option.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/Screenshot2011-03-03at105535PM.png

http://jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/IntakeManifold/JHM_B6B7_S4_Intake_Manifold_Shielding_Option.jpg
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6/3/10 - 72k - Metal Outer Tie Rods & 034 Adjustable Upper Control Arms

[INDENT]I had been dealing with some slight vibration at certain speeds (for me it was ~65-72mph) and eventually narrowed it down to being my Tie Rod Ends. I went ahead and got the upgraded metal ones and have seen no real extra harsh response from them. I also did the 034 Adj UCA’s at this time. My original ones weren’t in horrible shape, but they were getting close to needing to be replaced. Personally I don’t like dealing with suspension work, so I had my shop do the UCA’s and Outer Tie Rods.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/Outer_Tie_Rod_All_Metal.jpg

The 034 UCA’s really are a nice part, and I can’t definitively say it was entirely due to them, but steering/response/feedback all seemed to increase in a positive way. Others have also noted this when doing them, and it’s true, these are more than just for the people who want better alignment with lowered cars. It was stupid of me not to do the inner tie rods at the same time, and I ended up having to do them 10k later and then pay for alignment again. So I recommend knocking it all out at once. Again, this is why I’ve stressed to just go ahead and tackle preventative maintenance projects when you’re in one are of the car. It will pay off in the long run.

http://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/034_B5_B6_B7_C5_Adjustable_Upper_Front_Control_Arms.jpg
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6/3/10 - 72k - Stainless Steel Brake Lines & Super Blue Dot 4 Brake Fluid

[INDENT]This was another install that really shocked me as to the response and feedback gained. I’d always heard of how SS improve pedal feel and give a stronger bite, but never experienced it. After the install, the response was almost immediate. This was an install (due to needing to bleed the brake system) that I had my shop do. The install is pretty straight forward, but just ensuring their are not air pockets in the line is key. It wasn’t as cheap for install as I was expecting, but given the improvement, I’m happy I did them and would certainly do them again. The old lines can tend to show age and flex a bit more then when new, so this is a nice upgrade for any car really, especially when you can see both sets of lines in your hands.

http://c1552172.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/12746_x800.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/Brake_Fluid_ATE_Super_Blue_Racing.jpg
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8/2/10 - 73k - JHM Lightweight Front Rotors

[INDENT]I ended up getting these through another forum member during a part out for my oem rotors plus cash (my front oems were good condition when I bought adam’s it was my rears that needed replacement). This is one job that I wish I did from the start. I was on the fence when I purchased Adam’s rotors, and it seemed like a better value at the time. And while they were fine, I regretted not going the route of the JHM rotors almost immediately (again, personal preference and leaning toward performance over aesthetics). Since then I’ve been very impressed by the quality and performance of these and they’ve held up very well so far. Not only are they great to look at with their hat design, but the increased cooling and lighter weight are great for the performance side both for acceleration and response when driving. While I wouldn’t say it’s worth it for most to toss their good oem rotors, I would highly recommend someone needing to replace their rotors to look at these as an option. Their a piece that will continue to have value, and give a nice bump in performance over a stock part when replaced. Also, I’ve only done the fronts rotors as they provide the largest jump in performance due to a larger amount of weight reduced.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_B6_B7-S4_345mm_Front_Rotor_Options.jpg
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9/14/10 - 74k - Wheel Studs

[INDENT]Honestly I did these b/c I love the look of wheels studs. But they really have been a nice addition when it comes to mounting or removing your wheels. I have 19" VMR’s and they’re pretty heavy, but having the wheel studs there make it very easy to stick the wheel up there and not have to worry about it going anywhere, or falling as you remove the last lug nut. I’ve also heard some say you should replace your lug nuts after X number of miles. Not trying to get into that argument, but having these have come in handy several times and I would certainly buy them again.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/034_Wheel_Stud_Conversion.jpg
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9/15/10 - 74k - Inner CV Boot **> Should Have Bought The Whole Assembly

[INDENT]This is another common maintenance issue as these cars age. It happens, just like window regulators. Some last forever it seems, some go out before you know it. Looking back, no way I would deal with just the boot again. The removal and install of the shaft is pretty straight forward (you will need someone inside to hold the brake occasionally to keep the half-shaft from spinning as you torque the flange bolts), but I spent almost as much or more time trying to figure out the removal of the CV housing from the planetary gearing as I did for the rest of the install. Turns out it’s just brute force with a hammer to remove and to re-install. For me, I’m just gonna buy the whole assembly next time, it’s ~$130 vs $25, and you know that both CV boots are new. Plus you don’t have to worry about how long the gearing might have been low on grease or if other contaminates got into they system. It just makes sense, so my recommendation is to just buy the whole thing, you’ll thank me if it’s your first time doing something like this.

Boot Only:

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6B7_Front_Inner_CV_Boot_Kit.jpg

Whole Assembly:

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6-B7_S4_Front_Axle.jpg
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11/12/10 - 79k - Inner Tie Rod & Steering Rack Clunking

[INDENT]Yep, I had to go back and fix the inner Tie Rod now, and then pay for alignment again. See, told ya it pays to tackle it all at once and not have to worry about it. I really could feel a difference in steering with the new inner tie rod, they make a difference, so if your car is up there in miles, might be a good idea to just do all the tie rods and inspect the UCA’s before to see if they need replacing.

Another odd problem that isn’t terribly common, but will scare you pretty bad, is a pretty loud clunking type of sound when turning at slow speed to sharp angles. Say a parking lot or such. It got really bad for me during an autocross and I was wondering if my whole PS was shot! Turns out there’s a bolt for the steering rack below the battery and it’s common on Audi’s for this to come loose. It’s a rare type of bolt, basically the reverse of a triple square (imagine if you had to put a socket on a triple square or hex bit), and meant I had to go to Sears to get a good set of craftsmen sockets with deep flutes to grab it. But with the right tools and a little lock-tight, it was an easy fix and man was it nice to know the horrible clunking sound was completely gone.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6-B7_S4_Inner_Tie_Rod_End.jpg

Loose steering rack bolt below battery:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r42/mycarprojects/MY2000AudiA6/passengersidetierod/1.jpg
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#3

2/26/11 - 82k - JHM Shifter Linkage Upgrade & Stabilizer Bushing

[INDENT]I really haven’t gotten to “push” this unit very hard yet with the new clutch, but from what I can say, it literally feels like I’ve gone from an OEM unit back to a JHM SS all over again. I was expecting a little improvement, and JHM plays down the improvement when I spoke to them about it, but it was an absolute mistake for me not to do this when I bought the shifter originally. The shifter feels SOOO solid, and the shift gates make it feel like you’re shifting through the gates in a 355 Ferrari (please don’t flame, just saying it’s that level of precision that you feel when shifting, and trying to give a mental image). I’ve been ecstatic about having this upgrade done and all of my friends that drive manual are stunned by the difference. Most thought I had one of the better feeling shifters, but now they’re just stunned. If you’re on the edge about this, go ahead and do it so you can mark it off your list.

One side note as to disclose all information, JHM has told me on some cars, the stabilizer bushing will cause a vibration at certain RPM’s in the shifter and sometimes slightly audible. With my catless pipes, I’m noticing this around 5500-6000RPM. They said it doesn’t happen on all cars, but it does happen. Some customers decided to swap back to the original stabilizer bushing, and others just live it. I’m probably just going to live with it, but I wanted to disclose that as to not have someone in shock if that is an issue. That slight problem however still does not discredit the actual SS and Trio Pkg as that’s an extra add on some people do.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_B6-B7-S4_Linkage_Upgrade_vs_Stock_Disassembled.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/stabilizer%20bushing.jpg
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2/26/11 - 82k - Stg IV Clutch & LWFW with new Master & Slave Cylinder

[INDENT]This was another one that shocked me. I had expectations from “not much different from stock” to “oh no, it’s a STG XX you won’t be able to drive it”. Well I daily drive my car, and have begun putting some miles on this. It’s not done being broken in, but the clutch is very impressive and I’m having to COMPLETELY relearn my downshift blips b/c it revs so much faster. The throttle really jumps in comparison to the stock flywheel, and just gives such a sportier feel. I’m REALLY happy with this part, I love the feedback & pressure from it, as well as how well it grabs. This is a part that I feel will be no issue to have on a DD regardless of whether it’s mainly in the city use or commuter. But most of all, I can’t wait for it to be broken in and begin to see how it does with some launches and good shifts. I think it’s going to line up with the rest of JHM’s parts pretty well, so I don’t think I have much to worry about. But I just wanted to say, anyone going to STG III, there’s really no reason not to do STG IV and it’s only a $50 difference. I’m very please so far and didn’t expect such a positive experience with a new clutch or a lighter flywheel. I’ve had practically zero chatter experienced with other platforms and LWFW, so that also is not a concern and our torque happy cars have no problem getting the car moving from a stop. (Also, plan on swapping out the master and slave at this time. Really, don’t be ignorant, it’s worth the money and those are parts that are more of a hassle to replace later then they actually cost)

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_B6-B7_S4_LWFW-Hybrid-Clutch_Combo.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/IMG_0723.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/IMG_0744.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/IMG_0750.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6-B7_A4-S4-RS4_Clutch_Master_Cyl.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6_S4_EARLY_Clutch_Slave_Cylinder.jpg
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2/26/11 - 82k - Stern Motor Mounts

[INDENT]I figured while clutch was out, I was gonna tackle some other stuff. I put this on my list even though my OEM ones weren’t throwing a code yet. With these in, everything just feels more solid. There may be some slight vibration added, but I really can’t say for certain. I do feel they also helped with the trio pkg to tighten the shifts up some. I’m happy with these and it’s nice to know these will last me for a while to come. They look great and they perform even better, so don’t question whether these are a good idea. If you’re going to be doing header, nitrous, or s/c, I would certainly put these on your list as the extra power will appreciate a little firmer mount to hold everything in place.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/Stern_B6-B7_S4_Motor_Mounts_w_Resistors.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/IMG_0708.jpg
[/INDENT]

2/26/11 - 82k - Air Filter, Spark Plugs, Fuel Filter, Check Y Valve for Brake Booster (broke during install of other parts), Silicon MAF Boot, Broken Exhaust Studs Replaced

[INDENT]These were just some of the recent maintenance items I did. Again, just trying to stress, have fun learning about the car and replace the parts before anything major goes wrong. Honestly I feel these are pretty strong cars and most stuff doesn’t need to be replaced until it breaks, but some parts are cheap enough it’s worth doing them early and having the peace of mind.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6B7S4_Air_Filter.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/BHF-Bosch_OEM_FGR7KQE0.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6-B7_S4_Fuel_Filter_OEM.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6-B7_S4_058133753b_Purge_Valve.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/B6-B7_S4_MAF_Hose.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/034/B6-B7_S4_MAF_Boot_Comparison.JPG
[/INDENT]

2/26/11 - 82k - Milltek Catless Dp’s (with neck removed for True 2.5") with F.I. Resonated Catback

[INDENT]I had Piggie Pipes before, and I’ve now upgraded to the catless DP’s. I was expecting a bit of a gain, but nothing like I actually received. The low end power is just so much great than the piggie pipes provide and I’m extremely happy with the results. Also, the characteristics of the sound is phenomenal. It has much greater depth to the sound, and isn’t just more rasp. Whether you do it for more sound, or more power, the improvements of either are good enough to warrant the swap on either basis alone. I’m extremely happy with this modification.

http://www.stratmosphere.com/MTKS4V8DPS6SPDREP.jpg

I now also have it mated up to a Fast Intentions Resonated Cat-Back. This now gives me a true 2.5" exhaust system. And I will just say, this is the best sounding exhaust setup that I have ever heard from a 4.2 S4 in person. I haven’t heard the header cars, but I’m told they’re in a league of their own. Between the addition of the DP’s and this cat-back, I’ve never been so happy with how my car sounded. I also feel that this catback is part of the reason I’ve picked up so much torque. I had a custom 2.5" catback with x-pipe prior to this, but b/c the x-pipe was not in the ideal position, I feel it was actually hurting me. Swapping this in place of my old has really opened my eyes about the importance in proper calculations when designing a good catback system. Also, for those that don’t know, I’m told the resonators on the F.I. don’t really make it quieter, but rather refines the sound. Now the largest resonator probably does tone it down some, but the real idea is refining the sound and removing some of the rasp. I can say I certainly appreciate that tone quality to it now after driving for a while with it and will be posting some videos later (although there are several floating around).

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_B6-B7_S4_CatBack_By_FI.jpg

http://jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/exhaust/JHM_B7_S4_CatBack_Install_Examples_By_FI.jpg
[/INDENT]

Future of JHM & Me?
I hope to have the JHM Headers eventually as I believe them really to be worth the cost. I spoke to them for quite a while, and they took the time to really show & explain me the quality and importance in the design of their headers. It’s extremely very impressive the more you learn about them. They honestly make very little money on them, but the performance provided due to them is tremendous, as well as the added benefits of lower cylinder temps, significantly better flow, and better mpg as well. They truly live up to their motto “Performance Over Profit.”

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_B6-B7_S4_Longtube_Headers.jpg

Beyond that, the S/C is very much on my list. I have gotten to see the quality of it first hand, and it’s in a league of it’s own. The forethought in design with the kit is evident. And if you look back, all of their products have been made with a s/c of this nature in their plans. Every current bolt on JHM product will compliment the supercharger. Again, they’re making an extremely low profit margin on the s/c, and have designed it to be a kit that practically never needs to be upgraded (i.e. built motor will still use some components). This way, as built motors become an option, only things like pulley’s, intercooler, meth, etc is the only part that needs to be changed.

I feel that the JHM Nitrous Kit is one of the best bang for your buck mods out there, but it’s catered a bit to unique desires. Those that love the strip, or lining up with buddies, it’s the best advantage you can have. But I have more fun on the back roads and ripping through the gears every time I get in the car. But again, when you get to talk to JHM and see the design background and testing that went into that kit, it’s stunning that they’d be so devoted to a relatively smaller performance market.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/JHM_B6-B7_S4_Nitrous_System_Complete.jpg

At the end of the day, I’ve had my struggles and frustrations with JHM, as many of us have. But they have time and time again outperformed my expectations and have taken care of me as a customer beyond my expectations. From after hour calls, diagnosing problems at no charge, recommendations on parts to get and parts not to get (even if it means them not making a sale), and their appreciation for my repeat business has been an amazing experience overall. In my opinion, there has been several times they’ve gone beyond a professional level to a personal connection to ensure I was happy and that my problems were resolved. Jason (the “J” in JHM) is EXTREMELY meticulous and refuses to sell parts that don’t preform or are not 100% safe. They test cars in manners that no person would likely experience, hoping for things to break so they can adapt and improve designs and be completely confident in their parts.

Also, the Weighted JHM Shift Knob is on my list, but they’ve mentioned the idea of doing a RS4 version with perforated leather around the knob, so I’m holding out on the slight chance that comes into production.

http://www.jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/weightedknobs/JHM_Shift_Knob_Installed_Delrin.jpg

This past weekend I got several parts replaced obviously. JHM did not ask me to do this, nor did they give me some massive discount to promote them, etc. I wanted to make this for two reasons: 1) to share my experiences as I’ve modified my car, and 2) to give a review of all the parts I’ve purchased through the years, in hopes as to say thank you to JHM for the honest service and parts they’ve provided to me. Right now, I honestly can say I’m enjoying my car more now than I did the day I picked it up (and I was pretty excited that day!). I hope you enjoyed this review and see it as my appreciation for improvement to the platform, and not as a sales pitch or trying to promote products just to promote them.

#4

Well I took delivery of an amazing piece of art yesterday. Truly an amazing piece that I can’t wait to see in action. Anyhow, enough jibberjabber, here are some crummy iPhone pics:

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/MCW%20supercharger%20Build/IMG_0826.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/MCW%20supercharger%20Build/IMG_0825.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/MCW%20supercharger%20Build/IMG_0824.jpg

#5

One word… wow. Those are a work of art for sure. im drooling right now those look great.

Great detial on your list lots of work going on.

#6

I always think of snakes when I see them.

Up close they’re even cooler to look at. When you hold the stock exhaust manifold and then look at the headers, you just know they’re a great help to the car, especially for an NA V8 where everything counts.

The quality up close is top notch too. They’re kinda flabergasting. Having seen the jigs and seen how they’re made, I understand the cost. People often say they’re a work of art, but they really are something beautiful, created in one man’s mind and then fabbed by another man’s hands.

Something many people forget when lamenting the cost of entry to the headers club is the fact that you’ll save on fuel with the more efficient setup. Guys talk about 5-15% gains on average in efficiency. I calculated that they’d pay for themselves in about 5-7 years of driving 15,000 miles per year.

The fact they sound badass and make you go like shit helps too…:wink:

#7

Well headers are going on so the motor must come out. Started tonight, engine hoist tomorrow and headers over the weekend probably. Just taking nice and slow and makin sure everything works right the first time. Here’s some crappy progress pics:

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Maintenance%20Work/IMG_0854.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Maintenance%20Work/IMG_0857.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Maintenance%20Work/IMG_0858.jpg

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Maintenance%20Work/IMG_0859.jpg

#8

been checking on this. Any more updates

#9

Well I’m in the process of getting the headers on. . . those pics were from yesterday, a good day. today I got the engine hoist and started to pull the motor. . . but then realized the s/c has to come off in order to get the motor out. It’s plain to realize when you look at it, I just wasn’t thinking and was planning on doing that once I had the engine out.

So I’m probably still a couple hours of workin away from getting the motor out and then a couple more hours away from getting the headers on. . . Like I said, long unproductive night. Paying someone else to have done this is lookin pretty good about now haha, but I’m well past that option.

#10

Very well said. I would like to see these up close one day. They do look great. I do think some of the Ebay gen Y kids think anything not made in china as expencive. The cost for what you get IE. fuel and power improvement are well worth the asking price.

Don’t get too frustrated, your doing something without the expert tools. Your job is going to be several times harder then it would if you have a hoist or had done this more then once. Take your time, take deep breaths and just make sure to have all your ducks in a row.

#11

Nice! Amazing how really long those headers are. They give such a nice sounds along with the power as well.

Keep us updated, looks great!

#12

Any updates. I would love to hear a before and after with the headers and blower.

#13

Chasing down some little gremlins after the reinstall right now. (Bad O2 and Bad Maf and possibly small vacuum leak somewhere). Once those are all taken care of, I’ll be sure to make a full post. It was 3+months ago that I had my “wreck” with the tire (don’t think I’ve posted about that publicly, whoops, more details to come). So let’s just say, I’m tired of wrenching on this thing, but I’m not gonna quit till I get it all taken care of and done right.

So, be patient, as I am trying to be too, and I’ll keep ya posted when everything is finished.