Also, on the slow upshift, the DL501 does not like indecisiveness…it likes you to be committed. So if it holds a gear, it’s expecting you to ask for maximum acceleration. So if you go wide open throttle through a few gears, then go neutral in the next gear, it’s still in “race” mode so to speak. After 30 seconds, it’ll shift into the next gear. You can get around this by simply using the paddle even in S mode.
In Drive mode (not dynamic), the shifts even under part throttle happen later (about 2900 rpm) so the car isn’t trying to shift into 7th gear at 40mph and 1700 rpm. Removes all responsiveness from the car. And again, if you want to hyper mile it, just use the paddle and shift into a higher gear.
Do make sure you are servicing the car’s transmission on time too. Don’t skimp on that as old fluid can affect how the car operates.
There’s also a transmission cooler kit out there that does wonders and works very well with the JHM stage 2 tune. Link here: https://redmistracing.com/ols/products/rmr-transmission-cooler-for-the-audi-rs5-b8b85-2010-to-2016
On the cold start, you can also throw your fuel trims out of whack by having the car sit and warm up. Really bad thing to do. I usually try to get the car moving by the time the fast idle settles if not before. That’s often a struggle as I start the car with the garage door closed so my neighbors continue to like me :). If you have a Ross Tech VCDS, you can go in and clear the trims to “start over” so to speak. Your first cold start will be rough but it’ll smooth out after. I’d check everything else first though.