Yeah I drive it around. It is pretty quick and the S-tronic transmission is so much better than the older R-tronic transmission. I really can’t step into it much or else I am so far above the speed limit that I would be hauled off in handcuffs without too much thought. For a while I have been pushing my buddy to take it to the dragstrip to see what it would run. Haven’t tried it but I have to assume that it has launch control. He doesn’t seem all that interested though.
On Today’s Eighth Episode:
A friend’s B8 S4 was back in to replace the engine mounts. His car had noticeable vibrations at idle.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2478_zpsmzopgkux.jpg
Before I get too far into discussing this repair I would like to mention a Public Service Announcement or PSA. Audi decided to combine the wiring for the engine mounts and the low side fuel pump into the same circuit for some of the B8 cars. This car is not a good example of this but I had a shop that I consult for that did have a good example. They had a B8 A4 towed in for a cranks but does not start issue. There was no fuel getting to the fuel rail. They scanned the engine fault codes to find three fault codes. The codes were engine mounts short to ground and electrical malfunction in circuit along with low side fuel pump electrical malfunction in circuit. I told them to replace both engine mounts and the low side fuel pump. Their customer didn’t want to spend that much money so they just replaced the low side fuel pump and then the next morning the same problem showed up of the engine cranked and then wouldn’t start. The second time that the car was towed into the shop they replaced both the engine mounts and the low side fuel pump. That fixed the problem completely.
Anyways back to the repair. At least with the 3.0T that is in the B8 S4 there is a decent amount of room around the engine compartment.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2479_zpswixcutg0.jpg
So I got the car jacked up onto stands. Then removed both of the belly pans.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2480_zps0kebapv7.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2481_zpstf6qas6l.jpg
Once the belly pans were taken off then there was the telltale signs of damaged engine mounts. Those signs are purplish fluid marks around the side of the engine mounts and the subframe. This car had a lot of purplish fluid around the passenger’s side engine mount.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2482_zps6atpugbf.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2483_zpsq7xc4fzs.jpg
To get started with I needed to get to the main engine mount to upper engine mount bracket bolts. That means the front wheels and fender liners have to come off. This owner painted his wheels black and they look great in my opinion. Then the fender liners come out and finally the three main big bolts for the engine mounts are visible. Don’t know how well you guys can see the numbers on the side of the subframe but I like how Audi labeled the holes for the 16 mm bolts that go through the subframe, engine mounts, and into the brackets. They are marked 4, 6, or 8 for the different cylinder count engines since Audi used the same subframe for most all the different engines that were used in the B8 cars.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2484_zpsyludozvq.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2485_zpsmbnztmhz.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2487_zpsnkrusryn.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2486_zpsdfhp6naj.jpg
I had to crack the big 14 mm triple square bolts for the engine mount to upper engine mount brackets loose before loosening any of the other bolts and then I removed them. These bolts are usually on really tight so I had to extend the socket out really far to get some leverage with my two feet long 1/2 inch drive ratchet. At least I didn’t have to break out the expanding four feet long 3/4 inch drive ratchet to break those bolts loose because certain local shops have done major engine work and tightened those bolts with an impact gun so tight that I had to stand on the 3/4 inch drive ratchet to break the bolts loose. After the triple square bolts were removed I cracked the two side 16 mm bolts loose since I was there already but left them in place.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2488_zpsahr90bvx.jpg
Lowered the car down and put my engine support bar across the top of the engine compartment. There are two metal eyelets on the back of the supercharger that work great to hold the engine by. I lifted the engine as high up as I could with the wing nuts of the engine support bar. It is only going to go up a little bit but that little bit comes in very handy later on.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2495_zpsc1mft615.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2496_zpsgkv4lkdq.jpg
Lifted the car back up. Removed a bunch of stuff like the front sway bar, side subframe heat shields, front subframe to core support reinforcement bars, the Eurocode Alu Kreuz brace. Disconnected the power steering fluid lines from the rack and pinion and the ground wire from the side of the passenger side frame rail, unbolted the steering linkage from the rack and pinion, unplugged a lot of electrical connectors, and loosened the bolts/nuts that connect the lower control arms to the subframe. All of this work was to free up the subframe from the rest of the car so that it could be unbolted.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2489_zpsfvb9n5rb.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2497_zpsswo27l3c.jpg
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2490_zpswrmqukxb.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2493_zps08nnpbu0.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2491_zps5osg6bsy.jpg
There are eight 18 mm bolts that hold the subframe to the body. There are two on each corner roughly.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2501_zpslig0wb9m.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2500_zpsqgoarh7o.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2503_zpsy3kosibx.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2502_zpslrfd22lf.jpg
At this point I locked the lift at a comfortable height for me to stand under it. The engine is hanging from the support bar on top of the engine compartment. Then I supported the subframe from the bottom with two single pole jacks. One on each side. The first picture below is one of my personal favorites.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2498_zpsjuawnj6p.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2499_zpsnejrwm1r.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2510_zpsvpb4wz7e.jpg
Pulled the eight 18 mm subframe bolts and slowly lowered the subframe down.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2504_zps7iowqgdp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2511_zpsdncnwj22.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2512_zps80zcccye.jpg
On Today’s Eighth Episode Continued:
By lowering the subframe I was able to finally get access to the two 8 mm triple square bolts of the lower driver’s side engine mount bracket. Otherwise those bolts are stuck behind the OEM oil cooler.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2494_zpsrosqscis.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2506_zps9vupaihb.jpg
The B8 style engine mounts are very interesting in how they mount to the subframe and the engine. They are sandwiched between a plate and the subframe then the upper engine mount bracket sits in the dampening portion of the mount. Here are some pictures of the engine mount with the subframe lowered down but still in place.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2505_zpsavw5furq.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2509_zpsezavbtdx.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2508_zpslvvghqur.jpg
Got the old engine mounts out. Here is a comparison picture between the new 034 Motorsport engine mounts on the left and the old engine mounts on the right. The plates are behind the mounts.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2513_zpscjp8vsxy.jpg
The passenger side engine mount was pretty messed up to say the least. It was torn pretty good and the majority of the fluid had leaked out. The driver’s side engine mount had small cracks around the portion that connects the upper bracket to the middle like it was being compressed. That is pretty common since the engine spins clockwise. The passenger’s side mount usually tears in half and then the driver’s side mount gets smooched down.
Passenger’s side:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2514_zpsteoejbs4.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2516_zpsyoogcecv.jpg
Driver’s side:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2515_zps1srle48a.jpg
Here are some pictures of the space between the subframe and the engine with the engine mounts out.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2518_zpsdvcegdbe.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2521_zpsz4mezspl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2520_zpsi5seuvgd.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2519_zpsme2pzgcu.jpg
I only took one picture of the new mounts in place because you can’t see much.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2522_zpsw8kcoydq.jpg
Put everything back together and drove the car. Now there are no vibrations at idle and the drivetrain feels much more solid. This was a pretty cool repair.
On Today’s Ninth Episode:
The white B8 S5 was back in for replacing the tie rods and brakes.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2523_zpsxl13r4u4.jpg
The B8 style tie rods are so much easier to get to than the older B5/6/7 tie rods since Audi moved the steering rack and pinion to a lower point. The steering rack and pinion is now on the bottom of the subframe rather than bolted to the bottom of the cowl area and thus sandwiched between the engine/transmission and the cowl area. I sprayed the tie rods and jam nuts with penetrating oil because they tend to get stuck together over time and don’t want to come apart.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2524_zpsd4hvdv3f.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2525_zpszu3an2ro.jpg
Luckily the jam nuts did decide to come loose easily. Then I could loosen the ball joint end of the outer tie rods to knock them free from the wheel bearing housing/steering knuckle. Once the outer tie rods were free to come out I counted turns as I turned the outer tie rods off the inner tie rods and wrote that number of turns down for later. That way when I installed the new outer tie rods I could count turns to get the toe alignment as close as possible.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2528_zpsioqlmgl2.jpg
This is what the inner tie rod looks like with the outer tie rod taken off.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2532_zpsy35zhkiz.jpg
Took the jam nut, spring clip, and the dust boot off the inner tie rods.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2529_zps9ewbzwz6.jpg
That exposed the inner tie rods.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2530_zps3zltrpkq.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2531_zpscsfqnc6d.jpg
To loosen the inner tie rods I use the Audi special tool 38 mm crows foot. Then they just spin out by hand.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2533_zps6jmy36lz.jpg
Here are some comparison pictures between the old and new tie rods.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2534_zpsjoebjqkn.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2535_zpspc3wfk2s.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2536_zpsrxxtsuzx.jpg
After getting the tie rods replaced I moved to replacing the brakes. Started with the front brake pads and rotors.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2537_zpsng9mufjd.jpg
Then I moved to the rear brakes. The B8 cars have the electronic rear parking brake so I had to go into the parking brake control module with my vagcom and retract the brake calipers a little bit. Then I could get the calipers off and change the rear brake pads and rotors. After rear brake pads and rotors were changed then there is a procedure to reset the parking brake feature.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2538_zps2tk4uj29.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2539_zpsbtrat20w.jpg
On Today’s Tenth Episode:
My friend’s RS5 was back in for the 35K service.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2540_zpsuxfdxdid.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2541_zpsynhwal5j.jpg
Got it jacked up onto stands and pulled off all four wheels and tires. This was to check the brakes because I replaced the front brake pads and rotors like four thousand miles before this. The front brakes looked great like they should. However the rear brake pads are close to being worn enough to turn on the worn brake pads warning light. Also with every oil change and service I rotate the wheels and tires on this car to try to prolong the tire life or it will eat through tires pretty fast.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2542_zpshtlhc5yv.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2543_zpsnsdjbzys.jpg
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2545_zpsj5ri22h8.jpg
Moving to the back bottom of the car. The RS5s and RS7s require the rear sport differential ATF and gear oil to be changed at the 35K service and then every 40K miles thereafter. The other cars with a rear sports diff don’t have an interval for the fluids to be changed so I guess that Audi assumes that RS owners are actually going to push their cars on a track and overheat the fluid. It is nice how Audi put blue paint on the drain and fill plugs along with they labeled which fluid goes in which hole. It says ATF for the ATF/Transfer Box oil and then has a weird symbol for the gear oil. I used the Transfer Box oil from Audi but Redline GL5 75W-90 works well for the gear oil section of the rear diff.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2547_zps7ianfhhe.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2551_zps4wzeazmb.jpg
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2562_zps4qdn865r.jpg
Moving to the front bottom of the car. The big metal belly pan has to come off. I joke with this guy that all his cars have covers with 40-50 screws that have to come off to do anything. Also need to take off the smaller more rearward belly pan and then the Eurocode Alu Kreuz had to come off to get access to the S-tronic transmission.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2550_zpsgpvg8bdq.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2552_zpsnq5ix97r.jpg
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The RS5s require that the transmission fluid be changed first at 15K miles and then every 20K miles after that. In addition to the transmission fluid being changed at this 35K service, the RS5 also needs the transmission cooling filter to be changed. There is an additional filter/strainer inside the transmission too. The transmission fluid gets drained out this bottom hole. There is a fill plug on the left side of the transmission. The cooling filter is externally on the left side of the transmission. I had to drop the transmission oil pan to get access to the filter/strainer inside the transmission.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2556_zps8gq5pnmp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2563_zpszbdfxqqg.jpg
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2569_zpsrdexjykq.jpg
It is important to discuss the parts for this S-tronic transmission part of the 35K service. The fluid is expensive and the transmission takes seven bottles. The OEM Audi fluid is between $28-36 per liter depending on where you buy it and the Redline Dual Clutch Transmission/DCT fluid is like $18 per quart so that is a no-brainer. The transmission cooling filter is just over $11 for the OEM filter and the MTM aftermarket filter is slightly more expensive at just over $12. The additional OEM filter/strainer inside the transmission ranges from $77-95 depending on where you buy it. Finally the transmission oil pan gasket is like $41. So this is the most expensive part of the 35K service by far. I did a side by side of the cooling filter to show how nasty it was. From now on we are going to be changing that cooling filter every 20K miles when we change the fluid because it is so cheap and easy to replace. My buddy said that the car drove so much better after this service that he couldn’t believe the difference! Before there were multiple clunking noises along with the gear changes were not as smooth as they could be. After doing this service all the noises were gone and the gear changes were sooooo much smoother and quicker.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2571_zpsoq9mi8x8.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2570_zpsxtzcllr3.jpg
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On Today’s Tenth Episode Continued:
Moving on towards the front of the car. Both engine air filters have to be replaced at the 15K service and then every 20K miles after that. Well the OEM Audi engine air filters are just under $60 each so that adds to an already expensive service. The good news is that K&N has released engine air filters for the RS5 that not only are $10 cheaper each but then they can be cleaned and reoiled every 20K miles for a lot cheaper. The old engine air filters were pretty dirty. These K&N air filters drop right into place and fit perfectly in the air boxes. Also the RS5 uses a single Siemens ECU that runs a speed density system so there are no mass air flow sensors that could get messed up from the oil that is used on the K&N engine air filters.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2572_zpsspenxopi.jpg
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2578_zpsshsvxqtl.jpg
Finally changed the pollen filter which is really easy just like the other B8/8.5 cars. The old filter was pretty dirty after 20K miles.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2579_zps32kv5ust.jpg
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2581_zpss3d28ald.jpg
Also did a few other things like change the engine oil and filter, lube the doors/seals/latches/etc, set tire pressure, reset the service light, etc service stuff. Most of that stuff I have already posted about before though so I thought that I should leave it out.
This concludes the repairs that I am going to post about so I am up to date now. Hope that you guys and girls have enjoyed reading this and look forward to me posting new episodes after I get back from my vacation.
It has been a while since I posted so here goes.
After I came back from my vacation, my S4 sat for a while. I noticed that the windows kept fogging up after it rained. My first thought was that the water drains were clogged. The cowl drain inserts have been gone since I got the car so that wasn’t the issue. I had been noticing water coming out of the space between the doors and the body after it rains for a little while. So I figured that I should start with the sunroof drains.
Since there was water coming out from the rear doors mostly I started with the rear sunroof drains. To get access to the bottom of the sunroof drains I jacked the rear of the car off the ground and took the rear wheels off.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2793_zps8sid3wzx.jpg
Next to come off was the rear fender liners. There are a ton of T25 Torx screws and one 13 mm bolt that holds the fender liners on.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2794_zpslpfyobfh.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2801_zpsoectllpe.jpg
This is what the inside of the rear wheel wells and the bottom of the rear sunroof drains look. Notice the water dripping from the ends of the rear sunroof drains. That is a good sign that I found the source of my problem.
Passenger’s side:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2795_zps6lif3j19.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2797_zpsvrjhalwj.jpg
Driver’s side:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2806_zpsz4elctpn.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2802_zpsnmwd2wkf.jpg
Took a knife and cut the end of the sunroof drain off. That caused a lot of water to come out! I seriously think that I had a cup of water in both sides!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2800_zpsetwu4ihp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2798_zpsluh8ese4.jpg
This is what the sunroof drains look like with the ends cut off. I personally like to have a dime sized hole for water to drain through then a tiny hole that can get clogged easily.
Passenger’s side:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2799_zpsm9bhgpkn.jpg
Driver’s side:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2805_zps0fkkylmf.jpg
To make sure that the front sunroof drains were clear I had to take a few interior pieces out to make room to get to the upper end of the drain tube.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2807_zpsp2hr8zfe.jpg
Starting with removing the fold down vanity mirrors. There should be a small cover over the one Torx bolt that secures the base and once that bolt comes out then the mirror can be unclipped from the clip and pulled down and out enough to disconnect the electrical connector. Then set aside.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2824_zpsiehi6tj2.jpg
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2820_zpsotdlfkk0.jpg
Next the pull down/oh shit handles have to come off. There are two plastic tabs to pull down revealing two Torx screws. After those two Torx screws come out then the handles can come off and be set aside.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2821_zps36xudkdd.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2819_zps77rw8on5.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2818_zpsfx9vjgmy.jpg
Then there is an airbag emblem above the interior B pillar trim. The B pillar is between the front and rear doors. The little airbag emblem pops off to expose another Torx bolt that has to come out. Just a note for B8 and newer cars, Audi changed this to make it so that the airbag emblem just pops out a little bit to disengage the metal clip behind it. The B8 cars have similar problems over time too but Audi decided to make this different.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2817_zpsijjozxqd.jpg
The A pillar trim is fully unbolted at that point and only held in by metal clips. So it just pulls out to expose the side curtain airbags, front sunroof drain tube, and some wiring.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2815_zpswmheb0zj.jpg
Finally I had access to where the front sunroof drain tube connect to the sunroof frame. Looking up past the headliner there is the plastic coupler that pulls off the sunroof cartridge nipple. I opened the sunroof and used compressed air to blow air through the sunroof cartridge nipple and the top of the disconnected sunroof drain tube.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2814_zpsyudtjx5z.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2810_zpskf7qngg2.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2811_zpsot0qujgg.jpg
The bottom of the front sunroof drains comes out between the front doors and the frame.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2813_zps5otf8hsz.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2812_zps7prybxyo.jpg
My front sunroof drains were free and clear with no restrictions. The procedure for the front sunroof drains is the same on both sides so I only showed the driver’s side. If you really wanted to then you can take the C pillar and rear trim panels off to blow compressed air through the top of the rear sunroof drain tubes and the rear nipples of the sunroof cartridge but I was being lazy and didn’t find that necessary. It is a very similar procedure to take the C pillar trim panels off as the A pillar trim panels but the A pillar trim panels have to come off first to get the overlapping section off and there is a cross panel along the back of the headliner and the rear windshield that pops down by four metal clips.
Periodically I kept checking on my S4 after it rained to find that after opening up the rear sunroof drains and blowing compressed air through the front drains that my windows stopped fogging up. Plus now there is no more water between the rear doors and the body after it rains. I think that the water backs up far enough in the rear sunroof drain tubes to overflow down the side of the sunroof cartridge and go down the space between the door and the body.
Hope that this helps a lot of you guys and this is a common problem for a lot of Audis that I have had to deal with on B5/6/7/8 cars, A3s, A6s, A8s, and Q7s. The A3s and Q7s also have an issue with the glass roof separating from the body causing major water leaks that a body shop would have to fix.
Wow jimmy awesome update. This is something everyone should do but not much is ever talked about this. Great work
Nice work on the fluid changes!
“Graaah!!! I’m ZimbuTheMoron! - What have you ever done for the community Jimmy!? When are you going to post logs Jimmy!? Where is the empirical evidence Jimmy!? Why do keep ignoring me Jimmy!?”
;D Sorry, couldn’t help myself. Love this tread!
LOOOOOOOOOOL