Jimmy's Garage

I have been running a thread about what I have been doing for repairs on other local people’s cars on AZ. Figured that I would bring it over here too.

I had a B8 S5 coupe in for some noises and really bad tire wear. He had mentioned that he was hearing a popping noise when turning the steering wheel while sitting still and at slow speeds. Also the front tires were wearing unevenly.

To start off with, I took the front wheels off and the right front tire had cords showing on the inside edge. Both front tires were really worn on the inside edge of the thread.


Next I moved to the looking at his suspension.


Here are the upper control arms.


After closer inspection, the upper control arm bushings were cracked and torn.



Just to be sure I moved to the lower control arms.



Also noticed this on both front straight lower control arms.


It is hard to see the bushings on the curved lower control arms while they are still on the car. So here is a picture of the bushing with the arm off the car.


So we replaced all four upper control arms with the 034 Motorsport adjustable camber correcting control arms and the lower control arms with Lemforder and Meyle HD stock style replacements. Here is a picture of the 034 control arms next to the old stock control arms. The 034 control arms were installed with dust boots too.


Had the same B8 S5 coupe back in for installing a H&R rear sway bar.

First we have the stock rear sway bar:



Comparison picture between the stock and H&R rear sway bars:


The H&R rear sway bar installed:




Then I had a C5 A6 Avant with a 5 valve 2.8 liter V6 in for a timing belt job and a top end reseal.

This thing was leaking oil really bad and smoking from the engine compartment.

So here is the engine with the front end already moved into service position, the covers off the top of the engine and front of the timing belt area, the fan taken out, the ignition coils and spark plug wires taken out, the engine air box out, and the camshaft bar special tool on. Notice the frayed vacuum lines. There is a yellowish one on the left front of the intake manifold and one black one just over the driver’s side cam tensioner area.


The power steering pump suction hose was looking a little old and tired so it was replaced as well. Plus I like to take the power steering pump out so that I can get more room to work on the front of the engine when doing a timing belt service on a V6. There is always a water pump bolt that is hard to reach under the power steering pump too so why struggle.


Here is a picture of the passenger’s side valve cover. The black stuff on the bottom is frayed shielding from the spark plug wires.


Here is a picture of the driver’s side valve cover. Again with a lot of frayed shielding from the spark plug wires.


Close up shot of the timing chain tensioner area on the front of the driver’s side valve cover. Notice the frayed vacuum line.


All the timing components taken off along with the water pump and thermostat.


This is the passenger side cylinder head with the valve cover taken off. The two camshaft seals, camshaft tensioner seal, and rear exhaust camshaft cap is removed. Then the whole thing was cleaned off. The locking pliers are there on a non-contact area of the camshaft to hold the camshaft while I removed the camshaft sensor wheel. Otherwise the intake camshaft would spin in place when I tried to loosen the bolt and then camshaft timing would be off.


All those gaskets and cap came off just the passenger side cylinder head. No wonder these things leak oil like it is going out of style at times. This is also the first car that I have done this repair on where the half moon seals for the camshaft tensioner came out in two pieces for both sides.


New camshaft seals installed on the passenger side cylinder head. The owner is getting a new dipstick too since it was broken before I started working on the car.


New rear exhaust camshaft cap installed on the passenger side cylinder head.


Driver’s side cylinder head already to go back together with all new camshaft seals, rear exhaust camshaft cap, camshaft tensioner seal, and valve cover gasket.


Passenger side cylinder head with valve cover back on and everything cleaned up.


Close up of the front of the passenger side cylinder head after everything was put back together and cleaned up.


Driver’s side cylinder head with the valve cover back on and everything cleaned up.


New water pump and thermostat installed.


All new timing belt components installed with the special camshaft bar tool on. Look at the new vacuum lines too.


Also threw in a set of new spark plugs because the old ones were looking rough.


A B7 S4 came in to have me do some AC work along with a few other things.

Finally got a proper Robinair AC machine to be able to do this job correctly. I have been certified to work on automotive AC systems for quite a few years now but I have held off on buying a machine like this because of the price.


Close up of the front of the machine.


He had already determined that his AC compressor had failed. That is a very common failure for the B6/7 S4s and it is a major repair. To start off with we got the front end of the car jacked up on to jack stands.
Side view:


Front view:


Took the front wheels and bumper off.


Took the whole core support off. The AC compressor in on the lower right side below the driver’s side cylinder head. Do you guys see a belt that drives it. That would be a big NO because it is driven off a shaft that is connected to a gear drive unit that is spun off the timing components. This a reason why this repair is such a massive undertaking.


To be able to get to the shaft that drives the AC compressor, a bunch of stuff has to come off. Like the front sway bar, multiple coolant lines, driver’s side engine mount, and the driver’s side engine mount brackets (both lower and upper). Here is a picture of the driver’s side engine mount and upper engine mount bracket. Even more components have to come off to replace the compressor.


This is the back of the AC compressor with the shaft still attached.


Got the old compressor out and the new compressor is next to it. Now these AC compressors have become more available so the prices have been dropping. Which is a good thing since so many have failed including on both of my B6 S4s.


This is the front of the engine with the AC compressor out. Notice the gaping hole.


Close up view of the opening where the AC compressor normally sits. Right below the opening for the AC compressor is the water pump and to the right of that is the thermostat. Further back and lower than the compressor is the power steering pump. You can see the side of the power steering pump in the above pictures. It is actually a lot easier to replace then the AC compressor believe it or not. This is how the newer FSI V8s are set up too but the newer V8s have plastic water pumps unlike the metal ones on the B6/7 S4s.


Finally we have the new AC compressor installed and the front end is ready to go back together.


In addition to the AC compressor being replaced, we also replaced the AC receiver drier, AC orifice tube, a bunch of AC line seals, engine mounts with 034 Motorsport density line street mounts, front sway bar bushings, resealed the lower oil pan, and degreased the front of the engine. Usually the B6/7 S4s tend to look like this from years of valve covers leaking.


Had a B6 S4 for in some minor repairs and maintenance. It looks at lot like my car but much closer to stock than my car.

The fan on the engine is to cool the hot V8 off because it was too hot to work on right away.


This S4 got new valve cover gaskets, PCV valve, spark plugs, coolant tank, and wiper blades. The owner also got a JHM hat for me included with his order.


Here is a picture of the engine bay after everything cooled off. Notice the yellowing coolant tank.


The valve cover gaskets were leaking. The paint on the metal valve covers that came on the B6 S4s tends to bubble and flake off. This is passenger’s side valve cover:


Close up of the bottom of the passenger’s side valve cover.


Driver’s side valve cover:


The inside of the passenger side cylinder head looks pretty good with new half moon seals.


This is the inside of the passenger’s side valve cover with new gaskets already installed. Audi in their infinite wisdom decided to paint the inside of the valve covers on the B6 S4s with metal valve covers.


Threw in a new set of spark plugs because everything was already off to replace the valve cover gaskets. It was a good idea too since the old spark plugs didn’t look so good.


This is the old PCV valve that was replaced.


New PCV valve installed:


The old coolant tank was discolored yellow and it was cracking.


Finally, the engine compartment with almost everything put back together.


I had the same B7 S4 from before back in for some more work. First though we had to cool it off from the long drive to me.


To start off with we had to replace the left front outer CV boot because it had a small tear and was leaking CV joint fluid. This is the breaker bar that I use to loosen the huge 17 mm allen bolts for the axles. Believe it or not, some times I have had to stand on that bar and the bolt still would not come free!


Here is the outer CV joint with new fluid. Man that stuff is nasty.


New CV boot on the axle shaft loosely.


The axle all put back together with the new CV boot installed.


The owner wanted my piggies for his car so I installed them. It should be required that all B6/7 S4s get piggies at a minimum in my opinion since the pre-cats cause so many other problems from all that heat right behind the back of the engine.


The valve cover gaskets were leaking so while I installed the piggies, the owner changed out his valve cover gaskets. This is the passenger side valve cover before it came out. Notice the paint is not bubbling. That is because the B7 S4s got the newer plastic valve covers instead of the old metal ones that the B6s had.


The driver’s side valve cover cleaned up really well.


This is the inside of the driver’s side valve cover. Audi did it right with the plastic valve covers so they didn’t paint the inside like they did with the metal valve covers that came in the B6 S4s.


Next we hooked up a battery charger to the battery in preparation for the next step.


The next step was to load up the JHM ECU tune that the owner got. I have my old huge laptop set up to do the flash with Windows 7 and I have the JHM cheetah cable.


The tune was successful, Yay! He got the 91 octane tune because he will be going out west where they don’t have that good of gas and nobody needs secondary air injection.


Also changed the transmission and rear differential fluids too but that was not pictured.

Had a RS4 in for an oil and filter change along with replacing the worn out hood shock.


During the oil change. His car is a little low so I had to use a combination of floor jacks to get the front end high enough to work on it.


I took my A6 up the street to be tested for VA state safety inspection yesterday and was surprised when I went up there to find that it had failed. They said that the driver’s front outer CV boot was torn.

So here we have the car jacked up and the axle out.


Closer picture of the suspension loosened to get the axle out. A little over 30K miles ago I had to replace the front control arms (upper and lower), tie rods (inner and outer), sway bar end links, shocks, etc because they were the original with like 240K miles. So now the suspension comes apart very easily since everything has a healthy coating of anti-seize.


The torn CV boot was so fresh that I hadn’t noticed. You guys can see in this picture that the CV grease is only a light coating of the ball joints and brake caliper.


Then we get to the culprit of the failure:


This picture has the axle back in with a new CV boot and everything wiped off.


I replaced both front outer CV boots since the passenger’s side boot had deep cracks in between the ridges so it was about to tear soon after I would have replaced the driver’s side. This is how I get the huge 17 mm bolts for the axle to the initial torque setting of 200 Nm. Then I put the wheel on, lower the car down, double check the 200 Nm torque, and fully tighten the big axle bolt. The torque spec is really high at 200 Nm + 180 degree turn.


After a little reflecting, I realized that I had gotten almost four years and a little over 80K miles out the last set of front outer CV boots on this A6. Not too shabby.

The gas station guys up the street didn’t even bother to charge me the $1 fee for the VA safety inspection retest.

A beautiful RS5 came in for some basic maintenance. Today we did the 25K service, rotated the wheels/tires, and bled the brake fluid.


I finally broke down and brought an oil extractor tool to suck the oil out of the engine just for this car. There is like 30+ screws with five different type of fasteners that hold the metal belly pan on so it is a hell of a lot easier to suck the oil out with an extractor.


To make enough room to get to the dipstick tube/oil extractor tube the front upper bumper cover and the driver’s side intake air snorkel has to come off. I used the smallest extractor tube but next time I want to see if I can fit a bigger tube down there to suck the oil out faster.


This is a close up of the oil extractor while it was sucking out the oil. It pulls vacuum on the tank and then uses that vacuum to suck the oil out of the engine. This oil extractor holds like six gallons of oil and that is helpful since the RS5 uses ten quarts of oil. Also this extractor would ideally work on any B8 or newer Audi but it could also be used on an older Audi but you run the risk of not getting all the oil out.


A B7 A4 2.0T came to me for a carbon clean. I use walnut shells to clean the valves and ports since it makes life a lot easier. It doesn’t always remove all the carbon but it does a great job none the less. The rewards are worth the mess too.


The engine sure has a lot more room to work on then my V8 but you guys would be surprised how much stuff has to come off to get the intake manifold off.


Before picture of cylinder one intake valves and port.


After picture of cylinder one intake valves and port.


Before picture of cylinder two intake valves and port.


After picture of cylinder two intake valves and port.


Before picture of cylinder three intake valves and port.


After picture of cylinder three intake valves and port.


Before picture of cylinder four intake valves and port.


After picture of cylinder four intake valves and port.


Very noticeable butt dyno difference.

Had a B8 S4 in for a crank pulley swap.


Took the front end off to make enough room to get to the crank pulley.


Got the crank pulley off:


This is what the front of the crankshaft looks like. I didn’t notice until I uploaded this picture and looked at it on my computer but you can easily see the bolt hole that is slightly off of the circular pattern from the rest. It is the top left bolt hole. Audi has to make things difficult so the crank pulley only goes on one way. The older cars had a dowel that aligned the crank pulley but the newer cars have an offset bolt hole kind of like the older flywheels.


This whole job was to install the JHM HD lightweight crank pulley. This was before the oversized crank pulley came out or this guy would have probably gotten that. The stock crank pulley is on the left and the JHM crank pulley is on the right.


Here is the back of the two pulleys. The stock crank pulley is two pieces held together by a rubber isolator that can separate. The JHM crank pulley is one piece and it is lighter.


I broke out the scale to see what the pulleys weigh. This is the stock crank pulley.


Also weighed the JHM crank pulley. My scale is not as precise as the weights that are listed on JHM’s website but these weights fit what JHM has listed.


There was a noticeable difference with how the engine revved faster and easier. Needless to say this is a great modification that also can be justified as maintenance. It was actually easier to install then I originally thought too.

Had a B7 S4 Wagon in for some exhaust work. He wanted to go to a fully catless 2.5" exhaust.


He got Milltek downpipes but they neck down from 2.5" to 2.25" right at the end where it connects to the catback. That is because the Milltek catback is 2.25". Here you can see the section of the downpipe where it necks down. Along with my sharpie line of where I later used a sawzall to cut the necked down portion off. Always fun to use the sawzall whenever I get the chance.


He got some 2.5" OD, 16 gauge, 304 stainless steel tubing for me to weld in place of the necked down portion. I cut sections to make the downpipes connect to the FI catback that he also got. To make things easy for me I chose to TIG weld the 2.5" extension sections of 304 SS to the downpipes. Originally I assumed that the Milltek downpipes were 304 SS as well but they are not. The two easy ways to tell that the downpipes are not 304 SS were that the downpipes were rusting in certain spots and that a magnet stuck to the downpipes. So I had to get a different filler (309L) rod to make sure that the welds will hold.

You guys can see the downpipe on my Miller welding table while I was in the process of welding the extension sections on. On the other side of the pipe that is not pictured I had welded a portion of the seem and then you can see one of my tack welds. I have my welding supplies on the table like the filler rod (that long metal pieces to the left), tungsten (top middle and right on the far side of the table), stainless steel wire brush, Miller table screw clamp, etc.


This is one of the downpipes after I welded the extension section on. The foil that is zip-tied in place around the openings of the downpipe is for the argon gas back-purge while welding. I also had the extension tubing section end covered up with foil with the nozzle for the Argon gas going through it as well but that stayed in the shed. Whenever certain metals like stainless steel is welded, it needs protection on the back side of the weld. To do that I flow Argon gas, from another Argon tank than what is used for the welder gas, through the pipe. It makes the welding a lot easier, cleaner, and I am less likely to burn holes along with it protects the backside of the weld to make the welds stronger. Actually did start to burn a few holes in the edge of the downpipe where it meets the stainless steel extension section but I was able to fill in those holes once that section cooled off. It was odd since usually the stainless steel is the first to melt from the heat of the torch.


Here is a close up of the downpipes installed to see my welds. Marked both extension sections to make sure that I welded them to the correct sides since they were different lengths.


More overview shot of the downpipes and catback installed minus some minor things that were not reinstalled yet like the clamps for the catback to downpipes, center bracket that goes under the exhaust, etc.


Had the same RS4 from before, back in for a bunch of work over a little while. This is a recap of the different repairs that I have done. Of course his car always looks good even when it comes in for service.


Jacked it up and took the front bumper off.


Took the whole core support off. Have you guys seen the front of a RS4 engine with the front end off? It is quite a sight.


He had been concerned about a vibration and with the mileage that his car has it was a good assumption that the torque mount was shot. The old torque mount is in two pieces on the left and the new one is on the right.


This is the new 034 Motorsport torque mount installed on the car. The B7 RS4s, C5 RS6s, and some of the older A8s use a torque mount instead of a snub mount like the B6/7 cars. It is a very simple idea to prevent the engine from rotating but after about 50-60K miles the rubber separates from the bottom metal portion.


Next I installed the JHM six rib serpentine belt kit. It consists of a new lightweight crank pulley, alternator pulley, a wider tensioner roller, and of course a six rib belt. This is actually the reason that the core support has to come off because I have to use a 1/2" drive impact gun to loosen the alternator pulley nut. There isn’t enough room on the RS4s to sneak the impact gun into place with the core support on, even with everything stressed and the oil cooler lines disconnected. I have the JHM six rib belt kit on my B6 S4 as well but it is a little more involved since I also have the JHM SC. However I can sneak the same impact gun in with the core support just loosened on my car.


Next up is the main reason that he brought his RS4 by. It had been a while since a carbon clean had been done on the car so he had me do one. I blast walnut shells to make the cleaning easier and the difference is staggering.

Cylinder 1 before cleaning:


Cylinder 1 after cleaning:


Cylinder 2 before cleaning:


Cylinder 2 after cleaning:


Cylinder 3 before cleaning:


Cylinder 3 after cleaning:


Cylinder 4 before cleaning:


Cylinder 4 after cleaning:


Cylinder 5 before cleaning:


Cylinder 5 after cleaning:


Cylinder 6 before cleaning:


Cylinder 6 after cleaning:


Cylinder 7 before cleaning:


Cylinder 7 after cleaning:


Cylinder 8 before cleaning:


Cylinder 8 after cleaning:


After cleaning all the intake ports and valves I installed JHM intake spacers and oil separator heater bypass.


Later on he came back in for replacing the front inner CV boots. This is the passenger’s side. Needless to say the boot is more than a little worn.


Cut the old boot off and used my 12 pound slide hammer to get the housing of the inner CV joint off. I rarely get to use that fun tool so it is a joy when I do.


I had to take the inner CV joint off the axle shaft so that I could slide the new boot on. This is before I took the inner CV joint off.


Here is the new CV boot on, with the inner CV joint back on, and some new grease in place.


Finally this is the new CV boot in place and the clamps tightened.


I had my new, to me, big red truck in for some maintenance. It is a Ford F250 Super Duty with the old 7.3 liter turbo diesel V8.

EDIT: The truck looks level in the below picture, even though it is on drive on ramps in the front. That is because this truck has had rear leaf spring work done so normally without the front end raised up, the back end sits higher. That also means that the truck can handle more weight too. Yay, nothing like free upgrades that already came with the truck.


This truck of mine was a work truck to most of its life and it is pretty high mileage. The service history was accurate but the previous owner did the required services either right on time or a little late mileage wise. After getting it home I noticed that the engine ran really rough on cold start up without the block heater being plugged in. Kind of like it was not firing on all cylinders. Once the engine warmed up to operating temperature the engine ran like a champ. So I decided to do the equivalent of a tune up on a diesel. Started off by replacing the engine air filter. The old filter is on the left and the new one is on the right. Pretty big difference there.


Next up is an engine oil and filter change. To start off with the oil filter is huge on these trucks. Here is a comparison shot between the truck oil filter on the right and the filter for my B6 S4 on the left.


The nice part about the oil change on this truck is the amount of ground clearance and the clearance around the drain plug and the oil filter. The oil filter has to be drained before it is removed so I use a punch and a hammer to make a hole into the bottom of the filter. Otherwise the two quarts of oil that the filter holds will spill all over the place. Kind of like the B7 A4 2.0T FSI oil filter but with a larger scale in this case.


If you thought a B6/7 S4 or RS4 oil change was ridiculous with 9.5-10 quarts then this is a whole different perspective. I got 16 quarts of oil out of my truck and almost overflowed the big oil drain.


Then I drained the water out of fuel filter and changed the fuel filter. Here is the opening where it goes. This is similar to where the Audi TDI fuel filter is located, at least for the 3.0TDI anyways.


Here is the old fuel filter. It was stained in certain spots.


This is the newer style updated fuel filter. It is easier to install and cheaper.


In addition to the above items I also did some research and found that my issue of a rough cold start was fairly common of sticking fuel injectors. So I ordered some Hot Shot products, specifically the Original Stiction Eliminator oil treatment and Diesel Extreme fuel system cleaner. The diesel fuel injectors not only have fuel flowing through them like gas fuel injectors but also have oil flowing through them to assist with the higher pressures that the diesel fuel injectors see. That oil gets burned and stuck in place which causes the injectors to not work correctly. The Original Stiction Eliminator additive cleans out the oil side of the fuel injectors and everything else that the engine oil flows through like the turbo bearings and engine internals. Then it is easier to get a tank of bad diesel fuel than gas from certain stations that don’t have a lot of turnover and I have no idea if a fuel system cleaner was ever used before. So I used the Diesel Extreme additive to help clean out the fuel system. The company Hot Shot claims that the fuel system cleaner is so strong that it should only be used twice a year at most.


Since doing this maintenance and using the additives the truck starts and runs a lot smoother! It is a very noticeable difference.

Slow4’s S4 Avant was back in for a few things.


First item on the list was some torn and leaking CV boots. The left front inner CV boot had split and the both of the rear outer CV boots were leaking fluid past the back of the boot. Along with all the other CV boots were old and getting really soft so I changed all eight CV boots. Here is the left front inner. I have posted up a bunch of these lately it seems.


Second item on the list was changing out his Koni Shocks and H&R lowering springs for H&R coilovers.

Fronts with the H&R coilover on the left and the Koni shock/H&R lowering spring combo on the right:


Rear with the H&R coilovers already installed:


In preparation for the following items, I took the front bumper off.


Then took the core support off.


Third item on the list is a weird coolant leak that would only show up at odd times. He had said that it wouldn’t always happen but occasionally he would walk out to the car and there would be a puddle under the driver’s side front of the engine. I had pressure tested the cooling system before taking the front end off and I didn’t notice any drips. Once I had the core support off the only thing that looked like it had coolant residue around it was where the thermostat joined the water pump. Which is a good thing because there is a ton of coolant lines and places where coolant could be leaking on that section of the car.





Once I had the thermostat off it was obvious that the seal was leaking. Great, that is an easy and cheap fix at this point since so much stuff had been taken off already!


Now we get to the meat and potatoes of this job. Item four was to install my old V1 long tube headers on Slow4’s S4.

Here is a reference picture from when I took them off my car. Slow4 wrapped the headers in DEI Ti header wrap but in this picture the headers just have the old ceramic coating that I had sprayed on them.


The installation notes for installing these V1 headers say to remove the engine or that it must be lowered substantially. Well I have installed these headers on my car and a different set of V1 headers on another B6 S4 without removing the engine so why start now. First I had to remove the fully catless stock downpipes. Then the engine was supported from the top with an engine support bar on both rear eyelits. Next the subframe had to be lowered as far down as it can go so it was just hanging by the lower control arms and the transmission crossmember. Also took off the driver’s side engine mount with the upper bracket, AC compressor, serpentine belt and tensioner, alternator, along with disconnecting a bunch of hoses, electrical connectors, vacuum lines, etc. This is the engine hanging from the engine support bar.


Then lowered substantially:


Finally I tilted the engine to one side at a time to install the headers. Kind of a scary thing if you have never seen it done before.


The stock exhaust manifolds on these B6/7 S4s suck at flowing the exhaust out smoothly. Just like most people would expect for factory exhaust manifolds.
Front of the driver’s side:


Side view of the driver’s side exhaust manifold:


After the driver’s side exhaust manifold was removed:


Fed the V1 headers into place on the driver’s side:




Just to give you guys an idea of how tight of a space that these headers are in, take a look at the most rearward bottom two studs and nuts that tighten the headers to the cylinder heads. Those two studs and nuts are just below the exhaust ports for cylinder 7 and 8. There is no room to get a socket and ratchet on the closer of the two nuts. Don’t forget that the shaft for the AC compressor driveshaft is right below this as well. Which is further restricting the amount of workable space. The more rearward nut needs a unique combination of a short 10mm socket, wobble/universal joint, extensions, and a lot of patience to get tight. These headers require just about every different 10mm tool (from short/deep sockets, long/stubby/bent wrenches, to crowsfeet) to tighten all the nuts on each side. Also the headers are pressed up against the gear drive unit for the accessories on the back of the driver’s side of the engine.


Once the driver’s side of the headers was bolted on then I put everything back together on that side and tilted the engine the other way so that I could work on getting the passenger’s side of the headers in. Here we have the passenger’s side exhaust manifold still on.


Passenger’s side exhaust manifold taken off. This side was actually more of a PITA then on my car or on the other B6 S4 that I installed this type of headers on. For some reason the engine would not hang as low as it did on the other cars.


The passenger’s side headers installed:


Let me back up a step though because I had to remove the passenger’s side engine mount and upper bracket to tighten the lower nuts. When I went to put the engine mount and upper bracket back on there wasn’t enough room to get the bracket into place. Okay, a few minutes with my hand grinder and the correct grinding wheel for aluminum solved that.


How tight of a fit that it is between the passenger’s side engine mount upper bracket and the headers.


Next up is item five on the list. The Fast Intentions catback that is on Slow4’s S4 was necked down to stock so that needed to be modified to be a true 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back. I had already cut off the lower necked down portion with a sawzall.


To make the transition to a true 2.5 inch exhaust he got some slip on joints attached to about six inches of 2.5 inch pipe. I cut the excess pipe off after double checking my measurements a few times and then TIG welded the slip on joints onto the catback portion of the exhaust. The picture below is while I was welding on the first slip on joint. The foil over the ends is to prevent the argon backpurge from escaping out and the other ends of the pipe have foil over them too but they are not pictured. The hose that is going into the slip on joint supplies the argon gas for the argon backpurge.


After I welded those two joints on I put the catback portion of the exhaust on and then installed the catless mid-pipe sections of the V1 headers.


Close up picture of the slip on joints with the catback portion reinstalled. My welds look pretty good if I do say myself.


The catless mid-pipes attach with slip joints on one end and V-bands on the other so they are easily swappable. Slow4 got a set of mid-pipes with high flow cats from me too but he had me install the catless sections for now.

Okay, we are into the home stretch. The last item on the list was to install an automatic serpentine belt tensioner instead of the factory manual serpentine belt tensioner and roller system.

Factory manual belt tensioner and roller setup:


Automatic tensioner setup:


Finally I put everything else back together. Adjusted the ride height to 24-3/4 inches from ground to fender all the way around. Then changed out the wheel spacers that were on the car from 5 mm in the front and 10 mm in the rear to 3 mm in the front and 5 mm in the rear. This is the end result.


A different RS4 was in for a major service.



First thing was to do an engine oil and filter change. The filter is right on top of the engine towards the back under the bigger carbon fiber RS4 engine cover so it is really easy to get to. It is ridiculous but I need to put the top of the canister in a vice to hold it so that the actual filter can be pulled out since the tabs are so strong. By the way, all the 4.2 FSI V8s and 5.2 FSI V10s are this way since they use the same oil filter. After that the oil has to be drained out the bottom like any other pre-B8 Audi. That means taking off the massive belly pan that has a shit ton more screws than the normal B7 A4/S4 belly pan because of the additional air ducting for the brakes.



After the oil was done draining, it was time to lift the car off the lift and onto jack stands. That way I could take the front bumper off and then the core support off to expose the front of the engine. If it seems like there is a reoccurring theme of taking the front end off every Audi to get room to work on them then you would be right. They don’t call it service position for the fun of it.




Next up was replacing the torque mount. This one was noticeably cracked with it sitting in place. Once I had it out of the car I could see that it had not fully separated like with the grey RS4 but it was still pretty bad. I installed a new 034 Motorsport mount to replace the worn out original factory mount.




Then mileage wise this car was up there for replacing the serpentine belt. So it was decided to go with the six rib belt conversion kit. Just like before that includes a new lightweight crank pulley, alternator pulley, tensioner roller, and of course a new belt. Also replaced the serpentine belt tensioner as well.



Took the intake manifold off for a carbon clean. This car had like 71K miles and I am not sure if it had ever had a carbon clean done before. It was pretty bad! The port separators were covered in carbon but they are not reused because I installed intake manifold spacers. Also installed the oil separator heater bypass kit too. Didn’t actually take a picture of the spacers or the oil separator heater bypass this time around, whoops.



Here are the pictures of before and after for the carbon clean.

Cylinder 1 pre-cleaning:


Cylinder 1 post-cleaning:


Cylinder 2 pre-cleaning:


Cylinder 2 post-cleaning:


Cylinder 3 pre-cleaning:


Cylinder 3 post-cleaning:


Cylinder 4 pre-cleaning:


Cylinder 4 post-cleaning:


Cylinder 5 pre-cleaning:


Cylinder 5 post-cleaning:


Cylinder 6 pre-cleaning:


Cylinder 6 post-cleaning:


Cylinder 7 pre-cleaning:


Cylinder 7 post-cleaning:


Cylinder 8 pre-cleaning:


Cylinder 8 post-cleaning:


After the carbon cleaning was done it was time to change out the spark plugs. These were petty bad too. They were black with carbon and oil buildup along with a little bit of white on the end from where it had heated up enough to partially burn off some of that gunk.



Replaced the engine air filter because it was nasty. The RS4s actually have the engine air filter replaced more often than the normal B7 A4/S4s. It is replaced on the RS4s at 35K miles first and then every 40K after that so 75K, 115K, etc. As the B7 A4s/S4s require the engine air filter to first be replaced at 55K miles and then every 60K miles after that so 115K, 175K, etc. I guess that Audi figured that the RS4 was going to be driven a little harder so they shortened the interval.


Followed by replacing the fuel filter. The fuel filter is hidden under the passenger’s side rear of the car. It would appear that the original filter from the factory was still on this car. I swapped the green end caps over to the old filter prior to taking one of the below pictures so that I wouldn’t have fuel leaked on me. These filters have a fuel pressure regulator built in so any excessive pressure that the low side fuel pump builds is bled off back to the tank. The fuel filter has a bad tendency to clog and not allow the correct amount of fuel to the high pressure fuel pumps. On the older B6 A4s it was very common for the fuel filter to clog and kill the fuel pump inside the tank.



Finally we get to the oil cooler lines and oil cooler. The RS4s not only have the normal liquid to liquid oil cooler between the alternator and the block that cools off the engine oil by flowing coolant next to it but they also have an additional air to fluid oil cooler on the front of the car. The lines that go to this additional cooler though tend to rust out and leak. So we wanted to take care of that before it happened.





There is a kit from JHM that solves this problem. They convert the factory block opening and oil cooler ends to AN fittings and then use better lines to solve the problem.





The following was not pictured but I replaced as well: cabin air/pollen filter, coolant tank (because it was cracking), and fluids.

Now this RS4 is back up to freely revving to 8250 rpms and scaring small children/neighbors.

Now I have everything from my other thread transferred over here. I will keep posting updates here when I have them.

If you have any questions then please ask.

WOW jimmy awesome. Very cool to read

damn great read!