Just got tuned, comp. test, and some maintenance done

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

Hi all, I am excited to report that I just got JHM tuned yesterday. The process went smoothly and only took about 45 mins.

Although I still have the stock dp and catback, I definitely feel a noticeable increase in low-end torque. Unlike the stock tune, the car now pulls hard all the way to higher rpms too.

I also did some maintenance stuff on the car as well. ATF was changed, and the shifts now are very smooth.All of the plugs were changed as well as fuel filter. I also requested a compression test for the car. The results are in the picture below. My mechanic said 140 is little on the low side. Just wondering if it is something that I should be worried about. If this makes any difference, the test was done when the car has been sitting in 3C or around 40F for maybe 1.5 hours then in the warm shop for another 45 mins. And the car also had fresh oil taht was changed yesterday with liqui moly 5w40. We also found out the valve cover gaskets are leaking again, after the dealer who sold me the car supposedly have replaced just before selling me the car 2 years ago. It is not leaking bad, but pretty annoying.

http://i.imgur.com/xYc2C.jpg

A big thanks goes out to Shift Autosport in Burnaby, BC for setting me up with the tune, as well as The Speed Syndicate for the work done on my car.

#2

Congrats

ya valve cover gaskets are commonon the B6 and mine began to leak when i swapped it

#3

Those readings may be a tiny bit low but the fact that the readings are consistent suggests you’re in pretty decent shape.

#4

There is a tech sectiok on the site with other 4.2 compressiin results. I would add uour infornation and compair yours to what’s currenrly up there.

Also for comoression tests the car should be worm. Think about it you have a aluninm block if its not warm all the parts javent expanded to there propper tollerencees. Also ask if he did a dry or wet test thiswill effect reading as well

#5

I must be used to your posts now funkey, because I can actually read them without the slightest misread or hesitation. WTF is this world coming to.

2nd the engine warm being very important, even more important with an alumisil-r motor

#6

Just added my date to the thread.

Wow, I didn’t realize the the engine should be warm when performing this test. But I suppose the numbers would slightly higher if done correctly? I believe it was a dry test since the mechanic pulled out a fuse. I didnt know what it was at the time, but I think it was probably the fuel pump. I will give them a call tmr just to be sure

Thanks for all of your inputs, makes me feel better and more confident about keeping this car a little longer.

#7

Yes, pulling the fuse for the fuel pump is common practice. Warm is key like the others mentioned. If you didn’t see the mechanic add a bit of oil down the spark plug hole prior to threading in the compression tool thn he performed a dry compression test.

#8

What’s the difference between a dry test and wet test in terms of results and accuracy?

#9

Ohhhh, so thats what wet and dry compression test meant lol. I thought it had something to do with the fuel injectors. Then in this case, I am 100% certain that it was a dry test. No oil was added.

From what I read on the forums this morning. Wet tests seem to have higher values since the oil seals the rings temporarily. I am guessing it is more accurate since oil is pumped through a engine under working conditions.

#10

Normally a tech does the dry test first and then adds a little oil for the wet test. If there is a dramatic difference of like 15-20 or more PSI then there is not a good seal between the piston, piston ring, and cylinder wall. It is really noticeable on older American cars because the Germans have always built their engines to a tighter tolerance. The same goes for cylinder leakage tests too. For example, I have seen late 80’s BMW V12s with only 5% cylinder leakage and similar mileage Jaguar V12s would have like 20-30% cylinder leakage.

#11

Just did mine today warm and the dry test results were as follows:

#1 - 130psi
#2 - 140psi
#3 - 130psi
#4 - 140psi
#5 - 130psi
#6 - 130psi
#7 - 140psi
#8 - 130psi

2004 S4
94,000 miles
Liqui Moly 5w40

Goes through 1qt of oil every 50-300 miles depending on how fast I drive. There’s also a lot of blue smoke pretty much all the time but dies down after the engines nice and warm while it idles. Carbon buildup around the front and side of the passenger side valve cover. Little on the driver side but not as much. I have a CEL but it’s only because I’m catless and haven’t gotten a tune yet.