Just wondering if anyone here also have used Klasse rims on their cars? I have a set of m klasse wheels that are causing a vibration. I had a new set of Mirage mr182 tires installed + balanced, and the car started vibrating after I switched my winter rims+ tires for them. I put the car in gear with all 4 wheels off the ground and it appears that the rim is oscillating a bit, even with rim/hub cleaned, and wheel bolts torqued properly upon install. The only thing I noticed are some cheap looking wheel bolts with the chrome rusting on them. Is there a possible fix or should I look into getting new rims?
Have you ever used these wheels before, or was this the first time you had them installed on your car? I assume they are not new, so were they checked for trueness etc when the tires were mounted and balanced? Could they be bent?
With aftermarket wheels often times the bore in the wheel is oversized compared to the hub on the car. This is done to make the wheels more generic to allow fitment on multiple vehicles with the use of hub centering rings. Without the right hub centering ring you can mount the wheels slightly off center of the hub causing some pretty nasty vibrations.
All you can do is check tyres for defects like bulges etc even in the tread pattern. I had this year’s ago and it made the car vibrate over a certain speed it took me ages to find this out even after re- balancing all wheels twice !
Re-check the balancing of all wheels again just to make sure and make sure you have the right wheel centre rings
Here’s an update: the center bore is the right size for the hub, the lug bolts are all ball seated too. I had a more reputable shop check the balance and for defects. They improved the balancing on a couple of wheels and the rims/tires checked out.
I reinstalled and test drove. I got straight onto the highway at 75mph and all seemed good. but shortly after the vibration returned but not as bad, and it also came and went.
When I had the wheels off I noticed some oil at the top of the RR shock body. Perhaps it is blown out so it wouldn’t take much to start making a vibration. I checked for play in cv axles and drive shaft which all seemed tight, so I don’t think I have a drive train vibration, but I could be wrong. 
A failed damper can cause vibration as it can no longer control the oscillations of the spring so it’s very possible to hit a resonant frequency that feels like an unbalanced wheel.
Did the shop check your tires for flat spots, same again, they will balance on the machine perfectly but cause vibration at speed. Has the car sat for a prolonged period? A quick and easy test is to inflate to much higher than normal, say 50psi and have a short drive, if the vibration has improved it could be a tire flat spot. Make sure you deflate back to normal pressure straight away.
The shop did go over the tires to ensure no high/flat spots or making sure wheel spun true. I’ll replace rear shocks (I got kyb excell-g) and will report back. I’ll ensure all of my bushings are in check. These are a cheap offshore tire, but this is the 3rd set of them I’ve had and they usually ride pretty well. I did find the first minute of highway driving they vibrate a little but then smoothen out, when I had them on my 2004 Acura TL
I personally would never go cheap on the one thing that connects the car to the road. I once had a set of Firestone “ditch finders” that would unpredictably under and oversteer at the same time in fast corners, I developed more grey hair driving that car than I had through my late 40’s.
Stupid question, the tire should have a mark on the rim indicating either the heavy or light spot red or yellow spots (if they are still visible) they should be either next to the valve stem or opposite the valve stem depending on what the dot is indicating.