Lout Jnr's B6 Thread *Picture & Text Heavy*

That wasn’t a ghetto fix so keep your remarks to yourself if it was directed towards my recommendation.

Even the S4s have vacuum ports on the IM that are not used…and they are capped off from the factory, with a cap just like I linked.
Some of us work on cars and some of us pay to get the work done, no need to make smart ass comments on things you know nothing about.

Lout just make sure it is indeed a vacuum line that goes to the IM.

Maddog, that type of clamp is used everywhere…vacuum, coolant, power steering, the hard piping reminds me of the S4 vacuum lines that run down the sides of the IM too.

Its obviously needed because its there. You don’t have to be so sensitive I didn’t mean anything by it. It was just the way you said it, sounded more like " just take it off and cap it, its not used for anything important"… when clearly it is for something or it wouldn’t be on the motor. So anyways, my bad euro meant no offense to you or your post just a little error on my reading comprehension, we cool.

Cheers for the input boys…

We ended up capping it off and the motor runs sweet…dont know why thats there but it wasnt on my old one…so its strange…

A lot of vacuum lines can be for emissions reason ONLY, which I’m sure your emissions are different…which is why vacuum line orientation may differ. I’m not sensitive, I’m logical…

I’m glad everything runs great man…now go enjoy that f’in car and tune!

Its obviously needed because its there. You don’t have to be so sensitive I didn’t mean anything by it. It was just the way you said it, sounded more like " just take it off and cap it, its not used for anything important"… when clearly it is for something or it wouldn’t be on the motor. So anyways, my bad euro meant no offense to you or your post just a little error on my reading comprehension, we cool.

Cheers for the input boys…

We ended up capping it off and the motor runs sweet…dont know why thats there but it wasnt on my old one…so its strange…

A lot of vacuum lines can be for emissions reason ONLY, which I’m sure your emissions are different…which is why vacuum line orientation may differ. I’m not sensitive, I’m logical…

I’m glad everything runs great man…now go enjoy that f’in car and tune!

Lout Jnr,

You mentioned that the new engine came with the crap exhaust manifolds. By any chance do you have the link to the thread showing the differences between the various intake manifolds that came on the 3.0? I lost the link and can’t find it for the life of me. I believe my 04 3.0 has the “crap manifolds” which are restrictive?

Do you know if they are interchangable and if It’d be safe for me to just swap the older, I think 02, exhaust manifolds onto my engine? I believe the “good ones” have 3 visible ports where they connect to the downpipes, sort of like a pie.

Hey mate… here is the link for the exhaust manifolds. http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=381.msg5656#msg5656

From what i know really early built cars came with the good ones, dont know when they swapped to the not so good ones.

You can definately fit the early manifolds to your car. However to do that it is an engine out job, so may not be worth it for the gains…hence why i used them from my broken motor instead of fucking around with the ss headers.

Jhm have found that if you are putting on their dps you can die grind the mouth of your manifolds to increase the openong and would get some good results. I think that the good manifolds will be better and come into their own if you are stuffing air down the motors throat with a blower.

Lout Jnr,

You mentioned that the new engine came with the crap exhaust manifolds. By any chance do you have the link to the thread showing the differences between the various intake manifolds that came on the 3.0? I lost the link and can’t find it for the life of me. I believe my 04 3.0 has the “crap manifolds” which are restrictive?

Do you know if they are interchangable and if It’d be safe for me to just swap the older, I think 02, exhaust manifolds onto my engine? I believe the “good ones” have 3 visible ports where they connect to the downpipes, sort of like a pie.

Hey mate… here is the link for the exhaust manifolds. http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=381.msg5656#msg5656

From what i know really early built cars came with the good ones, dont know when they swapped to the not so good ones.

You can definately fit the early manifolds to your car. However to do that it is an engine out job, so may not be worth it for the gains…hence why i used them from my broken motor instead of fucking around with the ss headers.

Jhm have found that if you are putting on their dps you can die grind the mouth of your manifolds to increase the openong and would get some good results. I think that the good manifolds will be better and come into their own if you are stuffing air down the motors throat with a blower.

hey everyone. Im new here, but my 3.0 just took a shit on me, and I think its similar to what happened to you…

was it the cam bolt that had come loose that attaches the cam gear to the cam? My driver side timing is off after my engine rolled backwards when I parked it on a hill with no ebrake.

I hope that my damage isnt this severe. I am going to turn the cams back over so that they are at tdc and realign the crank so everything is where it belongs. It only appears to be 1 or 2 teeth off, but if a cam gear slipped, it could be much worse internally.

Can i simply loosen those cam gear bolts and rotate the crank and cams independently from each other in order to line everything up?

The bolts on my cam gear that connects to the cam did come loose and pulled one bank out of timing, hence the massive damage.

In terms of your question, not to sure on that one. Hopefully Jimmybones can answer you on that one.

Hello Sjorge3442, sorry to hear about this problem.

I saw a few timing belt engines that were off timing wise but if a cam is more than four teeth off then usually the valves will hit the pistons. You can only turn the cams and crank a tiny bit independently of each other. Good luck.

hey everyone. Im new here, but my 3.0 just took a shit on me, and I think its similar to what happened to you…

was it the cam bolt that had come loose that attaches the cam gear to the cam? My driver side timing is off after my engine rolled backwards when I parked it on a hill with no ebrake.

I hope that my damage isnt this severe. I am going to turn the cams back over so that they are at tdc and realign the crank so everything is where it belongs. It only appears to be 1 or 2 teeth off, but if a cam gear slipped, it could be much worse internally.

Can i simply loosen those cam gear bolts and rotate the crank and cams independently from each other in order to line everything up?

The bolts on my cam gear that connects to the cam did come loose and pulled one bank out of timing, hence the massive damage.

In terms of your question, not to sure on that one. Hopefully Jimmybones can answer you on that one.

Hello Sjorge3442, sorry to hear about this problem.

I saw a few timing belt engines that were off timing wise but if a cam is more than four teeth off then usually the valves will hit the pistons. You can only turn the cams and crank a tiny bit independently of each other. Good luck.

thanks guys. I ended up getting the car running. My engine had turned over a few times CCW due to me forgetting the e-brake on a small hill. Threw the whole car out of time.

Ordered cam locks, removed the timing belt and then slide the cam locks into position and re installed everything. Runs perfect. Very thankful that I didnt smash any valves.

Awesome work…glad it tuned out well…now go get tuned

The tune makes a huge difference! I can’t wait to see what down pipes with high flow cats does.