Low Coolant Warning

A few months ago I replaced the radiator, got that taken care of and all has been kinda well. Since I did that, when cold, the low coolant warning appears in the dash. The coolant is always at the correct level, and I can see it in the coolant reservoir. After letting it warm up until the SAI system turns off, and driving about 1/2 mile, the warning disappears. When warm, the warning does not appear. Could this be an issue with the level sensor? Would VCDS help diagnose this issue?

My luck with level sensors isn’t that good. After replacing the engine oil level sensor twice, it still tells me that I’m low on oil, but I’m right in the middle of the dip stick. :man_shrugging:

Yes you should be able to dig deeper into the sensors with vag com.

This would at the least help us walk you though an output test.

What measuring blocks would I need to check out? I haven’t even been able to find the label files for this car on the VCDS forums…

It is a coolant level switch (not a sensor). It is simply open or closed so VCDS will not be able to provide you with any insight.

The temperature dependence hints at something electrical making intermittent contact with thermal expansion and contraction cycles. This would either be the switch itself or one of the terminal connections between the switch and the instrument cluster.

VCDS can be very helpful in this case. You can start with output tests for the ele tests but since the sensors are causing issues. You’ll have to search and find the voltage or switch for the coolant tank for the coolant level I think its just noted as a 0 or 1 in vagcom…

Since I don’t have the switch or voltage blocks memorized. Try this and this should be the better way to go as you’re able to use this as a physical test.

Go and loosen the bolts for the coolant reservoir. Make sure you can move the tank a bit and get to the coolant tank sensor wire… Then when cold start the car if you get the code for no coolant make sure there is obviously coolant in the tank and that it has covered past the min line. Once you have done that unplug the sensor for the coolant tank level… check the dash and see if anything changed… Most likely nothing will.

After that make sure to take a small wire and just use that as a jumper wire in the wire harness acting as the signal. Just jump the posts in the wire connecter. This will be doing the same thing as if the coolant tank was full and passing the electronic pulse back to the ECU. If you do this jumper and you still get a code on the dash. There is a strong case for an issue in the wire harness itself. If you can turn on and off the code on the dash each time you move the jumper wire. Then the coolant tank sensor is bad… and it’s a really easy dumb sensor. It’s either on or off… So… Try that. I have seen on off Audi sensors go bad. So try that and let us know.

Thanks for the response, I’ll be testing this out later today.

Lately, we’ve had a slew of electrical problems with this car, and I’m wondering if there a single point of failure, bad ground or the like?

I found a really bad short on the main postivie battery cable, luckily I caught that before something catastrophic happened. Weird things keep happening, and it’s even after Halloween…

That in general is when it’s good to have vag com. Check for a full car scan. Look for short to ground or other ele faults in other modules