Show me what your trying to get to and ill let you know how I do it. there are a few tricky spots you need to have a special way of doing it.
Also take a pic of your brushes cause I use different ones for different things
Will do afyer the weekend. 3 days of offroading and camping to unwind a bit
Off-roading in the s8 ;)? Nice r&r
nono i got a crewcab flat bed on 37s for my daily /trail rig.
ended up finishing it all up…i dont know why it took me so dang long before…i fashioned up a little suction straw attachemnt to my shop vac and that made cleaning the remaining 2 cylinders a breeze, done in 1 hour for both.
got a new dental pick with a different end on it that allowed me to get into that crevice all the way around.
valves are cleaned, waiting for injectors to come back from cleanign and flow testing but they are saying a couple are still flowing poorly so they are continuing to clean them…may have to replace a few though if they are unacceptable…
replacing the oil filter housing O ring and try to get to the rear passenger timing cover oil leak this weekend.
looking forward to a misfire free car again, my wife misses her dearly
got my injectors back from cleaning, werent so so bad, they are all withing 3% of each other now, average 218cc flow i believe. 10 new teflon compression seals, filter baskets and rail o rings $254.
Will pop them back in today, I forgot to take the rear O ring from the oil filter housing with me to work to pick out a new one since im replacing the lower clover leaf gasket at the same time.
Still disassembling crap behind the pass rear cover to get access to the cover and assess the severity of the leak/ slap some RTV on there to hopefuly stop/slow it down until i drop the engine next year or 2 when i do headers.
CRAZY about the dog bone!
I found a chunk of variable intake flap busted off and jammed into the port divider just cm’s prior to the valve - SPOOKY!
I sent my mani out for cleaning and gutted what remained of the flaps but left the actuators in place hoping to fool the ECU.
Idle’s like CRAP, and loss of tq down low with ‘somewhat’ more hp up high.
Don’t bother - I spent $$$ halfassing it for nothing and now new mani’s enroute. Good luck.
just read your thread. Strange you had bad idle…a few guys have gutted their change over flaps and report no problems with idle quality.
did you also gut the metal tumble flaps found at the end of the manifold? That would have a major effect on idle air mixture in the cylinder…
Is there anything else thats supposed to go here? Or just the two fuel brackets and straight to the head?
Is it the triple square bolt that holds this down or the torx head one? Been apart so long i dont remember
so got it all back together. definitly loss of torque down low, up top kind of feels the same as before lol but no misfires at least.
however it seems i have a vacuum leak somewhere on bank 2…short term fuel trim drops to -7% at idle, but both bank 1 and 2 hoever around 0% at 2500.
tried the propane bottle around the intake manifold and throttle bodies etc but didnt get an idle up…any ideas?
That one picture depending on how the car they can come with motor lift bracket but generally nothing goes there just the bolt.
As for the fuel trims. You need to make sure your looking at the instant fuel trims and not the LTFT. Also remember bank 1 is only available on ECU and bank 2 fuel is only available on ecu to.
Don’t expect to see the idle go up if you do anything around the throttle bodys. The best way to check is to check the instant fuel trims and spray the starter fluid propane or whatever you choose around the front and sides of the intake. Watch the instant fuel trims with spraying around those areas and see how the fuel trims react. Chances are there is a leak either in the intake or where the intake bolts to the heads.
let us know what you find.
As for misfires generally the flapless intakes misfire more when its cold then when its hot out and if you see them they will be popping in the intake part throttle.
Thanks.
I did some testing before reading your message here
So the misfires only occur at idle (where as before cleaning it was just mangled all over the place and under load)
Short term fuel trim bank 1 is -8% right bank is 0,
Also see bank 1 maf reads 3kg/s while bank 2 reads 1.5 kg/s.
No issues above idle and under load.
Ill start with the starting fluid tomorrow but definitly hard to get to the back and undersides of the intake mani in these bays.
Ps i was wat hing both bank fuel trims using the generic obd port monitor on vcds not individual module
ok a few things.
let me know what measureing blocks your actually looking at because you should never see 0 unless something is really wrong. it sounds like your looking at LTFT long term fuel trims. So if you can let me know what blocks your looking at and what numbers are where. Because you need to look at both ECUs there is no way to look at both the passenger side and the driver side ecu at the same time.
The misfires are going to come and go. the thing that has thrown a few people off with gutted intakes is some people say they never get misfires… but the ECU turns off misfire recognition after depending on how many occurrences or the state of the car so in some cases people have it disabled but not by them… the car just disables it and they never get a code or they just don’t trigger. It is something you can feel in the car and hear through the intake.
Anyways back to the important stuff let me know what blocks your looking at because remember you actually have 4 banks. You have 2 banks in the driver and passenger side but the car has 2 primary 02s for each bank. Bank 1 and 2 are on the passenger side and bank 3 and 4 are on the driver side. So you want to make sure your looking at all of them
Will recheck tonight. Which measure block should i be using?
Same block for both ecu 1 and 2 yes?
One thing to clear up for my logic…on these audis… is bank 1 the US passenger side or driver side? Im reading some other forums and it seems bank 1 is passenger side (cyls 1-5 are in fact on pass side yes?)…
Check out this PDF, specifically pages 26/27. I think it should help clear a few things up for you in terms of nomenclature.
On all audis the passenger side is always bank 1 driver side is bank 2… but… it get more compicated when your looking at 02s as your now looking at it differently from a data stand point.
your motor is broken up into 4 primary 02 locations. Cylinders 123 on bank one and 45 on bank one you have a primary 02 for both those 02 banks
Then you have the passenger side or bank two and you have 678 on bank two and 9 10 on bank two and you have primary 02s for those 02 banks
Since you cant have two primary 02s on the same bank the code readers have seperated this into its usual banks. My example was to help explain what you probably were looking at and my words to you were more directed to your example as most standard readers see it as 4 banks for 02s.
so
bank 1 and 2 for 02 reading are on ecu 1
bank 3 and 4 for 02 reading are on ecu 2
so for 02s you need to look at it differently when your looking at fuel trims your looking at 02 values and what there feed back is. So you need to keep in mind that when you see bank 1 and 2 on ECU 1 your looking at primary sensors 1 and 2.
Ill stop there because its started to get complicated but if you really want to learn more you can do what I did you can go under a S6 unplug the primary 02s one at a time and read the codes that pop up from vag com and see how it pops up code wise as that is what you will be logging ECU wise.
let me know if this makes sense as the entire idea is to help you understand what your looking at fuel system wise
Yes that makes sense.
So i want to go into ECU 1 and go to group 033, i will see B1S1 and B1S2 as the short term trims,
-B1S1 which is pass side cyls 123, and B1S2 being cyls 45
then i go into ECU 2 group 033 and see B2S1 and B2S2
-B2S1 being 6,7,8, and 9,10 being B2S2 correct?
Im so glad that makes sense that was a huge headache.
Let me look at my notes but I think you have to move to 035 or 036 it will take me a few min…
so on a standard car this is how it works.
B1S1 bank 1 sensor one = primary 02 the one that reads and is the MOST IMPORTANT
B1S2 bank 1 sensor two = behind the main cat before the post cat to make sure the fuel trims are good.
So my first reaction is no thats not right its just bank 1 S1 front and back
you want to look for B2S1
And I think the blocks your looking at are LTFT and the first block is Idle the second is part throttle. Can you take a screen shot and post it
Im at work so give me some time to get home but search around and if you can post that screen shot