manifold off, some pictures and damage

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

Got the manifold off last night, carbon is not good, but no the worst.
but in cyl 2 i found a complete dogbone from the intake manifold just sitting lodged in there.
but cyl 1 has a valve hanging open with a piece of the dogbone in there. My biggest fear is that the valve is bent.
Peered in thru the IM looks like 1 flap is dislodged, will take apart the manifold tonight to inspect further…but the intake valve is my biggest fear at the moment. Will pull it out and see if it seals…
and those knock sensor connectors under the manifold were a PITA!

Cyl 1

http://[URL=http://s207.photobucket.com/user/PolishSasquatch/media/2008%20D3%20S8/4CE62B9B-E931-4C11-9566-B5272EDBC5A3_zps5ewgmnry.jpg.html]

Cyl ?

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb147/PolishSasquatch/2008%20D3%20S8/3CD5E6AD-3B54-4D9D-A343-CFE47556EF5E_zpsvp4owccb.jpg

found in cyl 2 intake tract in head

http://[URL=http://s207.photobucket.com/user/PolishSasquatch/media/2008%20D3%20S8/D9255947-F532-428A-BCD9-662AA07B5ECA_zpsh79nm9aw.jpg.html]

cyl 6…probably the nastiest one

http://[URL=http://s207.photobucket.com/user/PolishSasquatch/media/2008%20D3%20S8/3B0EA093-33EC-4B6F-973E-5DD6024B6E40_zpsuqzok2sk.jpg.html]

#2

Id have to mess with your links to get a idea on what the pictures look like it seems like you got the one picture to post.

I doubt you have a bent valve but it might make sense to pull the plugs and scope the cylinders. You can get a cheap bore scope from hobofright it will allow you to look into the cylinders through the spark plug hole.

Also if you want to know if you have a bent valve you can always do a compression test

#3
#4

Cyl 1

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb147/PolishSasquatch/2008%20D3%20S8/4CE62B9B-E931-4C11-9566-B5272EDBC5A3_zps5ewgmnry.jpg

Cyl ?

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb147/PolishSasquatch/2008%20D3%20S8/3CD5E6AD-3B54-4D9D-A343-CFE47556EF5E_zpsvp4owccb.jpg

found in cyl 2 intake tract in head

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb147/PolishSasquatch/2008%20D3%20S8/D9255947-F532-428A-BCD9-662AA07B5ECA_zpsh79nm9aw.jpg

cyl 6…probably the nastiest one

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb147/PolishSasquatch/2008%20D3%20S8/3B0EA093-33EC-4B6F-973E-5DD6024B6E40_zpsuqzok2sk.jpg

fixed your links.

#5

Thanks.

Im trying to split the manifold in half to see which links came off and to fix them, got all the bolts from top and under out but still doesnt want to split after taps with deadblow and trying to shove feeler gaiges between the two halves.
Just well sealed rtv holding it? Any special tricks to this?

#6

I have a packed schedule but, I can go outside and take some pictures of my old intake and give you some tips on taking apart yours and try to do a write-up if you’d find that helpful. If you can let me know if this would help and give me a few hours. I’d rather know you would find this helpful before I go do it and you no longer need the help. I’ll check in on this thread throughout the day. Just let me know

#7

I’m going to split mine as well - I’d love a writeup!

#8

Yes it certainly would not hurt! Hopefuly you have it up tonight or some pointers, ill take anoter crack at it in the evening or tomorow morning.
Thanks!

#9

I’ll go charge my phone. I’ll maybe try to take a quick cell phone video. We can build from there. That should save me lots of typing but I still think a good picture post DIY would be good to back it up with. I’ll get something up later tonight but it will be later in the evening.

#10

I hear you on that one. When you finally get around to putting the IM back on, remove the knock sensor bracket from the IM. Then attach the knock sensor connectors back together. Last, zip tie the connectors to the fuel line that runs along the front of the block. See the bottom edge in my picture. Will make a world of difference in putting the IM back on and on getting it back off in the future.

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p394/froggers6/IMG_1981_zpsrj2ayio8.jpg

#11

thanks for the tip!

regarding turning the engine over to close the other valves…no way i can get a socket on the alternator…let alone a ratchet or even the slim serp belt bar tool…
can i just hit the start button then quickly press the off button to have it spin over a couple revs?

also…how are you guys getting your valves pristine clean…no matter how much picking,s craping and paper towl i use i still have a small ring of carbon mess right around the valve seat area…im concerned with carbon or something migrating it s way down with the engine runing and start embedding itself into the valve seat compromising the seal…

#12

You can hit the cylinder again with oven cleaner and let it sit. Then back at it with the picks. It’s super tedious if you want it completely clean. I’d say I spend close to an hour per cylinder doing it by hand until I was satisfied with the results.

#13

i am definitely way over 1 hr per cylinder, have 2 left that havent been touched yet.
I have the regular curved dental pick but its just not enough to slide in between that tight seam of tnake port to where the valve head meets…may try some compressed air next…

think its ok to hit start then stop quickly to turn the engine over though?

#14

I used a dental pick set, the 90 degree one was great at getting the valve seats, a straight pick worked well too.

I used the alternator, so I can’t tell you if bumping it will work

#15

If I recall correctly, there is a video of the guys from Edge Motors hitting the starter for a split second using the ignition to do exactly this. I would imagine this won’t cause any problems. Not sure if they pulled the fuel pump fuse though.

#16

ah good idea, pulling the fuel pump fuse. otherwise everyitme you open the door with battery connected it shoots fuel up to the HPFPs, those are disconnected so the engine got a bath the first time…
anyone know what fuse it would be on an s8?

#17

on the s8 go into the trunk pull the back trunk mat and you should see the fuel pump cover sitting under a cover plate located almost up against the back seat. I dont remember what one is fuel what one is the sending unit. Pull off both the covers and just pull the cable off of the fuel pump. There are a few pump fuses so that is the best way to just take the pump out of the equation.

You can bump the motor off the key better than the start button. you should still have key access on the dash. If you absolutly dont you can start stop but some say that is bad for the starter. I dont know why that would be just passing it on.

As for the carbon clean the entire bank of the motor should take just over an hour. If your now using brushes and a drill your going to be there for hours and hours and hours and you will not be any where near as efficent as if you used the nylon brushes.

#18

check these links out the brushes are down in the brush pictures you can grab them from hobo frieight or JHM sells a much stronger one you can get that from them

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4385.msg122127#msg122127

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4385.0

#19

thanks for the tip regarding fuel pump!
as for the brushes, i dunno tried em all…they jsut dont seem to get into that little crevice there. picked up a few more dental picks, a long thin pointed one hopefully that ones can get in there and carve the rest out.

#20

For those wondering… here’s the video from the guys at Edge Motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ugh9vPz2Zd8

He references hitting the starter around the 34 minute mark.