Someone mentioned in another thread that you had some gigantic wheels/tires. Just wondering what they weigh. Rotating mass is important. 10.5"x20" wheels are generally not light.
Saki, I’m running a staggered set…got some grief for it but what else is new? 9x20’s front, 10x20 rear. Wheels made by Forgeline. Micchelin Pilot Super Sport tires. 52 lbs. combine front, 54 lbs. rear. Just weighed them about a month ago.I’ve thought about remounting the stock 19s for my next attempt at the 1/4 mile. It could make a difference? All the mass is on the perimeter of the wheels and tires and thus could be a little difficult to get them going?
Lightweight wheels make a pretty big difference, since you’re reducing both unsprung mass, and lowering the moment of inertia in the wheels. You’ll be handicapped by your BBK (unless you have 355-360mm rotors?), probably can’t go any smaller than 19". You might want to consider getting a LW wheel set, not necessarily something expensive, but maybe enkei or TSW nurburgring wheels. They’ll probably come in at around ~21lbs if you get a 19x8.5 wheel. The guys here can probably tell you approx how much time you’ll gain, I’d wager it would be on the ~.1-.2 seconds on 1/4 mile et based on what I’ve read.
that’s not bad the weight. Stockers suck…they’re probably 58 lbs each with the Dunlop tires that came stock. Good tires…but heavy. Peelers look great too…but heavy.
Yours are pretty decent for the size. The staggering, I don’t know enough about the inner workings of the B8 S4 differential to know if it’s a concern. If diameter is same, who cares.
All the shit you got for staggering the wheels wasn’t because of harm to the differential, it was because of the hindrance it would place on the car in the twisties. Big high HP RWD cars need the additional rubber, but AWD cars like ours don’t, and worse, are prone to understeer. Most track guys with M3’s and other RWD sports cars I’ve spoken with have switched to square setups to help remove the understeer introduced by the wider rear tires. But I’m sure there are exceptions.
Anyways, you can do whatever you want, if you like the look then fuck all the people giving you grief, myself included ;D.
Yeah, I was asking from the point of view that maybe if they were heavy, they were impairing acceleration. An extra 40 lbs of rotating mass per corner can kick the shit out of your car’s nimbleness.
Primetime is around 50lbs a corner I think. That’s decent for a great looking set of 19" wheels. To that end, 54 lbs for 20s isn’t terrible at all. It’s not a gamechanger going from 54 to 50. Going from stock 58 to 44 or something though…that will feel like a new car.
Gents, left the car at the shop overnight. Staggered set? Don’t forget it’s a 40/60% power set front and rear but actually it probably makes no difference. Also, don’t plan on doing any more road work. Concentrating on 1/4 mile. As I have written I suffer from a rare psychological malaise called “skinny tire syndrome”. Narrow wheels and tires cause me to have dizziness an nausea! Guess I got it when I was a kid? Below is a picture of the position of the duct. We decided to use industrial (automotive) strength adhesives to install the grill and inlet, thusly not use carriage bolts to hold it all in place. Obviously a much cleaner look. They set it last night and I’m sure it will be dry by this morning. They also narrowed down the sheet metal where it met the mesh. Obviously they will have to paint the hood. Will hopefully post completed pictures tonight.