Motor Issues

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

Hey guy, Im back. Missed the comfort of my S4 for daily driving so I picked up one with a bad motor, avant, automatic. I have the parts for a 6 speed swap and will probably do a 2.7t swap into it. I know flame on. I posted this over on AZ yesterday but figured there are some more knowledage people here.

Anyway the real reason I am here. Owners discription of what happened was that he got off an exit got onto it and the car started shaking violently and running like crap and then wouldn’t restart. Sounded like a snapped guide to me but I figured he had it properly diagnosed an I know these motors have issues with timing (this one being an 04 with 100K on it, it was right at the time we see issues like this pop up). When I first got the car I did a quick scan for the hell of it. Got the following codes. I tried turning the car over and all I got was grinding sound from the starter and proceeded to pull the motor.

Address 01: Engine Labels: 079-910-560-BBK.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 910 560 C HW: 8E0 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/5V G 0010
Coding: 0007771
Shop #: WSC 63251 000 00000
VCID: 254BCA93EF078E3073D

3 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 -
16692 - Cylinder 8
P0308 - 001 - Misfire Detected
16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0321 - 008 - Implausible Signal
Readiness: 0000 0000

Well I finally got around to separating the motor and trans tonight. Starter looked like it might be shot. All the spark plugs looked fine. I was able to spin the crank up front by hand(with some difficulty) to remove the trans and torque converter bolts. Once that was off I was able to get a breaker bar on the back of the motor and turn it over real easily with out any skipping or jerking I have experienced from the previous motors I have had with timing guide failure. What was strange is when I first started turning the motor over the drivers side “belched” up about a cup of fuel? maybe water? out of the exhaust manifold. It smelt like fuel, but seems like a lot of fuel to be sitting in the cylinders on only one side.

Any chance this motor is still good? I guess I am just at a lose of why a somewhat significant amount of fluid came out the drivers manifold. Seems like the motor had compression. I guess I am looking for advice on next steps…pull the exhaust manifolds and take a look in the cylinders, pull the timing covers and check for some broken guides. What could have failed on this motor for someone to diagnose it as needing replacement.

#2

That was my post from yesterday^ hopefully I am not making this confusing lol.

Here is more info I got via email this morning

Got some more info out of the PO.

It spewed white ish smoke out of the driver side exhaust. It was only amateur diagnosed. The motor was locked. Obdii reading showed misfire on 8 and and a timing alignment is crankshaft position sensor. It could well be hydro locked but several attempts showed it was locked up. My auto body friend, whom you met said the motor was locked up.
Man, if you only need to do a head gasket on that I’m gonna cry. I decided not to tow it back to Southampton etc… And that could have been a costly mistake. Complete miss diagnosis? Wtf!
H

Followed by this one lol.

If it turns out to be a coil pack on #8 and a new starter, I’m gonna cry.
H

Highly doubt its just a coil pack and starter. He did say he got smoke out the drivers side. There was definitely water/coolant/fuel in the drivers head which I rememebr being cylinders 1-4 and passengers being 5-8? The oil was dark when I drained it, definitely not a milky color. I didn’t get any codes for timing like he did though. Guess its time for a compression/leakdown test on the motor?

#3

Jhm bought their shop b6 for like $9000 five years ago because it had a couple of bad coil packs and went to auction with ‘bad engine’ as the descriptor of condition.

You never know.

Hopefully it’s salvageable although the water sounds bad. If it is salvageable, that would save you from the nightmare of the 2.7t swap.

#4

I would definitely stay away from the 2.7 thats a bigger train wreck then you think…

The motor could be good if it spins over free.

Pull the plugs check them all out.
Pull the dxhaust mani see whsts the deal
Pull the back covers off check that.
Check the oil and pan
If all that checks out. Put the starter back on even with the motor out of thr car…make sure its got oil and give the motor a compression check. That will tell you a ton right there.

If it has a bad head gasket cooent should be in the oil. If it lost a guide you will see that when you pull off the back covers and if it broke a rod you fill find thag when you comoression test it.

#5

160
190
25
65
125
50
25
75

After putting a cap of oil in each

170
200
65
125
145
130
130
145

#6

compression test is not the end all/be all determiner, though yours doesn’t look at all good.
based on your 200psi hole you got some broken valvetrain; that’s well above spec, i believe.
run a leakdown test and note from where the pressure’s escaping; it’ll provide lots more info prior to tearing it down.

#7

Lol, above spec?? That would be pretty much impossible and I’d be more concerned with the cylinder with low pressure

Here are the specs…
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=727.0

Is this engine still in the car? If not, pull the manifolds (intake and exhaust) that alone will tell you a ton after a visual inspection.

#8

Motor is out of the car, visually what would be I be looking to take note of? Bent valves, not seating fully etc?

#9

Have you removed the timing covers? I would pull the valve cover too. You won’t see a slight bent valve unless you pull the heads.

#10

pull the valve cover on the low side on the comp. And then pull off the back timing covers. That will tell us everything we need to know. Take pics and put them up we can look them over.

#11

Didn’t get all the covers off yet. And then my home died
Passenger

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/24/pazu2y2a.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/24/zezepava.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/24/uhetyba8.jpg

Driver

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/24/ydesary8.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/24/ragegy9u.jpg

#12

[quote=“euroswagr,post:7,topic:4802”]
Lol, above spec?? That would be pretty much impossible and I’d be more concerned with the cylinder with low pressure.

it’s not at all impossible; what happens if the exhaust valve isn’t opening, for example?
(valveS).
that said, it doesn’t apply here thanks to your spec page showing 200 is new spec.
the high cylinder is probably carboned up.
totally agree with you on the low hole concern.

#13

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/25/na3y8e7u.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/25/a4ybynyv.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/25/a5yzadah.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/25/y3e5emev.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/25/yga8aje6.jpg

#14

yup cracked guide thats what does the rattle.

#15

But would that really cause those compression numbers?

#16

You could have two or more issues going.
Scored cylinders & bad rings would give you bad compression numbers.
Plus a cracked guide.
Those compression numbers don’t look good - they should be within 15-20 of each other.

#17

Yea I knew that, I guess I just had some hope that it might be a fairly easy fix when request for timing cover removal lol. Guess Ill pull the heads one of these days.

#18

you still getting rid of the mtoor…

#19
#20

He’s probably got that and more stuff going on. I was going through 1qt. of oil every 100 miles because my engine had scored cylinders, bad rings, leaky gaskets, and all of my guides were broken and I was still between 130-140 for all 8 cylinders.