I know the gut wrenching feeling of a repair going sideways. Take a deep breath, maybe 10, and identify the game plan and action items. Things get hopeless or down but there is always a fix. You are kicking ass.
Alright, well I figure about a half day of thrashing tomorrow will be enough to get the car running. All that’s left is installing fuel kombi valves, injectors, rails/runners, supercharger, belts & re connecting all wires and hoses.
After going into a rabbit hole, I figured out that any injector revision ending in 036k or newer will take the plastic retaining clip offered, regardless of what model it’s going into. So, my 2 new injectors are good to go, plus I resealed my 4 old ones
Well, I finally got this thing running. There is still some sort of rattling going on and it seems to be coming from the supercharger. I noticed a little bit of play when I would turn the s/c pulley back and forth. It definitely runs better than before, I flushed all the old stale fuel out and replaced it with fresh stuff. After some run time and quick pulls I got a p0441 and p2006 and p2007 code. Judging from my research, and that I don’t have any vaccuum leaks, I messed up the install of the runners and the intake flaps are stuck on the dividers.
Oh well, I didn’t lose a bolt this entire project and it runs great despite the few issues. I’m still a happy guy
Congrats. Progress in the right direction.
Does the tick go away at higher RPM’s?
Does it change after the engine has reached operating temp?
I have never had a SC engine before so I don’t know what that contributes, but that seems to have the tick of a stuck lifter.
By the way, nice work overall. I had a welded injector and had to drill/tap then pull to get it out since the top half if the injector came apart after the plastic gave up using the puller.
Ed
It is audible when car is idling, it is actually Loudest after you rev the car and rpms come back down. It gets quieter when you put the car in gear. It looks like the coupler on many Eaton superchargers can get worn out and cause this rattling/knocking. So the original knocking noise may not have been coming from tensioners, put probably still best that I replaced them.
Side note on the injectors, the stuck injector pictured above appeared to have a bunch of epoxy like jb weld in the injector hole holding it in? I spent quite some timing scraping it out of the large counterbore before installation
I got around to running the car with no s/c belt today and my knocking/ticking is still there. At idle it isn’t super loud, it only gets louder when the rpms come back down after a rev. I guess I must have some sort of lifter issue or an issue with one of the lower timing chains… definitely not the outcome I was hoping for
I used a long 1/2" extension as a makeshift stethoscope today. The tapping can be clearly heard when I listen right on the vacuum pump, and I can’t hear anything everywhere else I tried on the motor. I’m hoping this may be the cause!
It’s been a while again, but I am really seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. A few weeks ago, I scored a smoking deal on some 19" Lemans wheels with good condition Potenza RE070’s mounted. I had originally planned on spending double what these cost for cheap aftermarket wheels + cheap tires, so huge bonus. I also got my last missing puzzle piece, a good condition used S Line bumper. I have enough stuff from my old bumper + a fog light cover coming from ebay to do a complete install. After that, the only things I have to fix to pass an Ontario safety inspection is brake pads and front snub mount. There’s some light rust on the rocker panels + doors I should address sooner sooner later. I also need to resolve my folding mirror issue. So with all that, officially licensing and driving the car next week is a pretty realistic statement at this point.
Good luck, nice score!
Well this weekend didn’t bring the success I was looking for. All of the mounting tabs on my new bumper were broken clean off, so I need to do a lot of surgery to graft new mounting points onto it. I also tried to diag my tapping noise more. I pulled the driver side valve cover off, and the lifters/rockers seem to be ok,but I noticed the clips to hold the rockers to the lifters are loose. I included a link to a video I took. My 2 possible causes I’m more set on are a noisy injector or 2, or maybe something is up because of those loose rocker clips.
Oh well, at least the car looks good on the 19s
Spent yesterday welding mounts from the old bumper to the new one. Then spent today painting it, and had a burst of energy at bed time to button up the accessories to it. Really happy with how it turned out! Should be able to have the new bumper mounted tomorrow, then take the car over to get a safety inspection.
Well, I managed to get the car on the road last week. I’ve put on about 300km and not too many issues. I have a new drivers side headlight housing on order since the old one’s mounting tabs are broken, and while I have the bumper off, I’ll install the retaining mounts that are missing, as it’s only held up by a couple of mounting points.
The engine runs very strong. The ticking noise is still there and haven’t made a conclusion as to why. I may have to just take it to a shop and get their opinion. I have a pretty sizeable exhaust leak on the bank 2 flex pipe. The exhaust smell is also very strong, like there aren’t any cats. I also suspect a bad pcv as the car makes a small puff of smoke once in a while right when you take off from a stop light. But I’m still a happy guy. I’m driving it before summer which was my goal, even if it still needs a little TLC.c
Here’s a 1 month update after getting the car licensed. Unfortunately 2 weeks or so after driving, the car started leaking tons of antifreeze and was running down the front of the engine. It was so bad, that I drove the car instead of my gf because of my short commute. I decided to park it until I resolved the issue.i assumed I had pinched the water pump gasket so I had planned on repairing that. It had symptoms of a bad pcv so I ordered a new one. When working on the car, I removed the black plastic pipe and saw that the pipe was broken where the Oring sits on the end + the oring was broken. I’m now waiting on a new pipe to arrive, and then it can be re assembled. I also need to replace a leaking pressure line for the p/s, b2s2, and fix a leaking flex pipe. I’m not sure how to replace that without removing the cat/down pipe. I actually have the car listed for sale. Unfortunately, my girlfriend’s new job has a long commute and this car is not cheap on gas. Maybe it will be more manageable once the repairs are fixed. This thing just has me burnt right out.
Interesting thread here on Audizine.
Well the car is back up and running, and better than ever. Performance + fuel economy are much better after replacing the defective bank 2 downstream o2. I also setup my dragy and managed a 14.3 with my gf in the car + about 50lb of luggage. Hard to believe this car would be over a second faster with a stage 1 tune. Now it’s time for more cosmetic repair + flex pipe repair.
Interesting thread. I replaced the 2 cam chain tensioners and I don’t have the death rattle on startup, just the constant ticking after the engine comes off the cold start high idle. I want to start the engine briefly without the serpentine belt on to rule anything out from there.
SHE LIVES… Did you every find out 100% what the ticking was? Or is the car still ticking? Great to see the car running.
JHM has an inhouse A6 3.0T check out the results they got. They have a good program for your year and make car.
Keep the updates coming. Glad to see all your work has you on the road
I’ve yet to look into the ticking, still does it the exact same way as when I got it. I plan on taking it to my work this week and running the car briefly with the serpentine belt removed.
I’ve been looking into JHM. I have p0430 and p0420 codes, and after a cat conversion test they are really shot, so I need to do something about my cats. I’m going to try steam cleaning them. I don’t see any aftermarket options for test pipes or cat backs for my car, so I better bust out the tig welder. I have a leaking flex pipe, which requires removal of the dp’s anyways, so a good excuse to delete them.
This car also gets horrendously worse mileage when driving with the A/C on. I can touch 30mpg when cruising at 75mph. but it will drop to mid-low 20’s as soon as I turn it on, or if I go closer to 80mph. I’m thinking there’s some sort of issue.
Once I get the mechanical stuff sorted, I can do more of a physical restoration (repaint all spots where paint has flaked off & light surface rust has gathered, also replace broken headlight housing & broken bumper supports), then I will have a better idea if I can keep this car. My girlfriend drives a lot with her mobile pet service job, and it’s basically not feasible for her to daily this as is. It’s a shame, because this car is really sweet despite it’s issues.
Try to hit up JHM I know they have two of these cars for development. Ask the sales guys. I know they have full exhaust on their car. So I would guarantee they have dps for your car.
I sent them an email to see what they can do. A subtle mod that I would like to do is replace the trip meter display (I have the old style red led one) to the more modern type. I think 2011 cars have the newer style