Well, this has been a very long ongoing project. And then with cold weather and frustration. I gave it a break. I think the worst thing I ever did was get it to a “working” state with the sub, once I had that going, I just gave up entirely on the rest of the work haha.
Anyhow, crosspost, but thought ya’ll might like it.
Ok guys, so I’ve always been a bit of a audio buff, but had told myself I wasn’t really going to get into doing anything on this car. Partly because I liked the RSN-E a lot and didn’t want to pay big bucks for a sound processor to extract the signal for aftermarket amplification and typically I am not a fan of large touch screens in cars when they come stock with very well integrated components, like the RSN-E. Well with the second round of the Dynavin group buy I decided I liked the idea of keeping an OEM look but getting to gain a lot of features as well as get some better audio options. I figured I could sell the RSN-E and break even, so it seemed like a good to suite my needs.
Well first off Trent was absolutely AMAZING to work with and highly recommend him for any audio needs he may be able to help with! After a long wait for my Dynavin (not due to Trent), I finally got to start playing around with it. Install wasn’t too bad, I just wish I’d seen his writeup as there are a couple basic things you need to check to make sure of while installing it. The Dynavin manual is pretty bleak, but Trent helped a lot to make sure all was good. There were a lot of things I liked about the Dynavin, and in general it seemed to have a very good touch screen as well as some great features. However, after prolonged use, I realized it just wasn’t fitting my needs. I felt some aspects of it were lacking and basically feel if you hadn’t had a RSN-E stock, then you’d probably really like this unit. But having the factory navigation, this just didn’t impress me as much as I had hoped for. Maybe I set the bar too high, or may be it’s just me. Whatever the case, Trent helped me so much through the whole process, and we agreed that it just wasn’t fitting my wants/needs.
At this point the itch to do aftermarket audio was in and I started looking at aftermarket headunits. First off, retail on some of these are stupid expensive. Like nice HD TV’s can be had for the price of these headunits, and being into hi-fi audio, they really aren’t even supplying that impressive of a signal or options when it comes to options in the home audio field. But all comes down to size, multiple features, navigation, integration, screen etc so they start to rack the bill up on them fast. I started leaning toward the Pioneer units simply due to I liked the interface of them. They have a new Avic-Z120BT which I really liked, but even after coupons/sales/rebate, I couldn’t justify the alomst $1k prce point not including all the install gear for it (cheapest I found after MIR was 800 I think, but then factor in about $150 in additional accessories to have running in your car). This lead me to it’s little brother the Avic-x920BT with a slightly smaller screen and some less options with the most damning being weaker preout signal voltages i.e. poorer signal in theory.
Aight, lets get the story moving, just wanted to give some preface.
Equipment picked to be used:
Focal 165VR through crutchfield (Retail $630, after discontinued in April and pricematched, $250 Shipped)
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/x091165VR-f.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/h130AViC920-o_other.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/v1_logo.jpg
Elemental Design eDead V4TekLite (basically Acoustic Matting) 30sqft
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/v4_logo.jpg
50ft of JL 12gauge speaker cable (bought at local hi-fi store, total ~$60)
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/xcbcsc1225.jpg
Boston Acoustics GT-40 Amp (bought used on e46fanatics, but I think it has a fan issue b/c it’s making noise when on) But going to run bridged to front crossovers.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/Car%20Pics/Forum%20Photos/x065GT40-i.jpg
JL Audio Twin Amp Kit using 4 gauge wire (already installed)
3 pair of 20’ JL Audio RCA Interconnects
Custom Fiberglass sub box from Los Labs (thinking about trying to build my own again to better suite a W7)
http://www.loslabs.com/images/products/AUD1100-3_large.jpg
http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images//236888/main/12w7.jpg
Rockford P500.2 500RMS bridged
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/photos/P5002_1_l.jpg
Okay, so now that all that is out of the way, Lets get to the install. I already installed the W7 a while back, but like I said may build a new fiberglass box. I ended up building a new amp rack out of MDF board and attached inverted to the rear deck. I’ll get pictures of it up later. Originally I was using Beemer’s idea about back dooring the bose amp (and did run this for a while, WOW, the bose speakers LOVE having some real power to them, but still not anything like aftermarket) But after running new RCA’s and all I decided to run new speaker wire to the doors. Talk about a PITA, those molex plugs suck, and I had to get the dremel out to expand the bottom of that hole a little to help get the 12 gauge speaker wire through. Joey was a HUGE help with this part of my install as I couldn’t figure out for the life of me how to disconnect these plugs. He came to the rescue a couple of times asking where basic things were located or how to get them apart. But I hate german plugs, but am often amazed by them as well haha!
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0175.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0174.jpg
Since we’re on the topic of doors as well, I sound deadened the inside of the door skin (as in part closest to the exterior door *panel, inner door skin, and outer door skin part. Basically, imagine if you were looking through the holes in the sheet metal where you can see the window mechanical parts, well the part straight through has sound proofing on it, then the both sides of the metal that the window regulator and speaker baffle attaches are fully sound deadened with a double layer on the outside part) as well as the acoustic matting on the outside of the door skin. This was a slow process but makes a world of difference. I double walled the outside door skin (and some of the inside) as the sound deadener I bought is a “thinner” version. Honestly this didn’t add that much weight. I think it’s something like .3-4lbs per sq ft and I bought 60 sqft of the deadener and have some left (but I’ll probably be using that in the trunk and possibly rear doors). The sound deadener is incredible and literally changes the way the doors even close. My BMW had full sound deadening in the cabin and it was amazing, but I wasn’t going that route on this car obviously.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0184.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0183.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0185.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0186.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0187.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0174-1.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0173-1.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0172-1.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0170-1.jpg
The real part that took forever on the doors was fiberglassing pieces to cover the large holes in the door skin. The reason this is done is your door is basically a speaker cabinet, and having something with some sort of pressurization (doesn’t need to be complete and obviously there are drain holes in the bottom for water) allows the speaker to perform much much better. Typically you will see increased bass, tighter midrange, and overall crisper sound. This is all from the woofer as the tweeters are closed back and don’t benefit from this. I used fiberglassing from home depot, and then used a silicon to make a good seal and self tapping metal screws to provide an extra tight secure seal. This was a tedious process, but I felt like if I was doing everything else it’d be worthwhile to do this as well.
So FIBERGLASS:
Figure out your area:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0163.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0167.jpg
And go:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0162.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0172.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0171.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0162.jpg
Finished Effect:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0166-1.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0173.jpg
Then starting to put the sound deadener around it:
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0168-1.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk89/mbgt72/My%20Audi%20S4/Stereo/IMG_0167-1.jpg
After all the interior sound deadener was on and I had made the fiberglass parts, I reattached the window motor and cycled the windows to make sure nothing was getting in the way or restricting movement. All was good so sound deadening continued!
Then onto the speakers:
First off I am very impressed with these, especially for the money. I really was wanting to pick up some used Hertz MLK or Focal K2’s, but just couldn’t find any, and the pricepoint of $1000 for a set of components wasn’t something I could swallow. That’s partially why I wanted to go the extra mile on the door was to ensure I could get all that these speakers could give me. I previously had Focal Utopia’s in my BMW, but I had gotten them used and was able to sell them 2 yrs later and only loose $40 bucks on them. But I wanted to go a different route on this car.
Anyhow, I was thinking about fiberglassing some speaker baffles or making some MDF baffles, but at the end of the day, I decided I didn’t want to do the work and I just used the Bose Baffles. They were actually a little small diameter wise, but I just screwed down really tight and felt confident it was a good enough of a seal. I also felt that due to some of the curves around where the baffle attaches to the door, it would be best to use the oem for a good seal.