Need help with a wrenching failure

B8 S4
#21

Thanks for the info on the hotchkins, makes sense that this would be needed. I’ll have to think about trying this, because pulling off these bushings every year is a PITA, especially in the rear with the exhaust in the way.

I spent most of yesterday trying to get a a set of pliers that were long/strong enough to unscrew it. Problem was there isn’t enough room to fit a vice grip. So really the only solution are needle nose pliers, which I don’t believe have the gripping power? Or could I try a really long set?

Regarding the screw issue, I’m not sure I follow why it won’t turn the bolt. Take for example a simple case where you have a nut and bolt to fasten two pieces together. Once you get sufficiently tight, you’ll need to hold both in place or turning one will turn the other. In my case I believe the torquing the nut towards the bolt will force the bolt to spin the same direction, right? So could I use a reverse threaded nut?

#22

I would make sure you use one way until all possibilities of getting it out that way are exhausted. If you try to grab it from the back side there is the chance of damaging the threads enough that if you decide using the extractor bit is a better idea you might have damaged the bolt enough you won’t be able to unscrew it

#23

Because in your example, the bolt is free spinning in a non-threaded hole. The presence of threads in the hole changes the rotational force into clamping force. Which is why things like coilover bodies use a lock ring to secure the spring perch.

You are dealing with a threaded hole containing a threaded bolt that was lodged in place when the head snapped off. The 1/4 turn stretch that Audi specifies deforms the threads, which is why you cannot reuse the bolts. The threads where the bolt snapped are likely stretched to the point where that section is solidly jammed into the threads. If you cannot turn the rest of the bolt by hand from the back, you will not turn it just by using a single nut.
The quick cheat you can try is to give the back of the bolt a tap to see if that is enough to loosen it and turn it out by hand. The key is being able to turn it by hand. Any more force than that and you are risking damage to the threads in the chassis.
If you have enough room to work with and enough of the bolt sticking out, I would try to fit 2 nuts and tighten them against each other to create a solid “bolt head” to turn with a wrench to get it loose.
The tried and true method is the screw extractor, because you absolutely want to back the bolt out of the hole just like you would unscrew it normally. You do not want to force those stretched threads in through the rest of the threads in that hole. It will cause damage to the threads and possibly weaken them to the point of being stripped out when you tighten the new bolts to spec.

#24

You are absolutely correct, I spoke with a few people and the pair of locking nut solution was the best. Here is my attempt

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7600/16603246659_3d7877823b_b.jpg

Problem now is there is a minor bit of turn that I can’t get with wrench. Wish I could find a 13mm wrench with a slightly more offset angle. It is such a small bit I need, but obviously is met with lots of resistance. I’m gonna research this a little more and then go back to the bolt extractor method.

The other solution would be to JB weld a nut on, but then I’m stuck with that method. At least what I did above is reversible, assuming the threads will be OK (which I think they will be).

#25

You don’t have to use locking nuts. Regular nuts work just fine and are usually thinner.

In that situation, I would use a propane torch to heat the wrench (about an inch down from the end) and bend it to whatever angle I needed.

#26

Thanks for the suggestion, someone at work helped me do it, hopefully this does the trick

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8726/16792904921_8759ea39a5_b.jpg

#27

Well, you’re all probably on the edge of your seat…but here goes

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7588/16610662830_6fe30f2102_b.jpg

;D ;D ;D

Never lubing those bushings again…now I have about $100 of worthless tools, oh well. I didn’t get to drive the car yet, but better be no clunking haha

#28

Awesome! Good job man

#29

It’s always great to see something so frustrating finally sorted out

#30

WOW!
U had room to put 2 nuts on there? Yeah, that’s def the way to go :slight_smile:
Just like installing/removing wheel studs.

#31

Very nice! Glad you got it out!

#32

Celebrated by grabbing a set of VMR V810 track wheels in gunmetal. Perfect fitment at 18x9.5 et 45 with no need for centering rings, and they will clear my BBK (at least this is what was told to me)…and only ran me 1140 shipped :D. Shouldn’t rub with 265/35R18 tires…next, need to order new front pads, install the AMS CPS system, and decide whether to go R-comp (A048’s) or stick with UHP summers (R-S3’s)!

Pretty much CH-R rip offs

http://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/gallery/vmr-released-new-flow-formed-wheels-for-bmws-photo-gallery_7.jpg

#33

nice save and wheels drob!

#34

Have you considered R888s? A friend of mine runs them on his B8 S4 on track and loved it.

#35

Personally, I wouldn’t run an R compound like the R888 unless you have an extremely good BBK and endurance pads. Someone wrecked last weekend running R888 on stock RS brakes. They overheated and he went straight off in T5 at Laguna, and dragged the whole right side of his car along the wall.

Of course you could run the R888 and not go balls to the wall, but that’s a lot of money to pay per mile if you’re not really going to scrub the tire in every turn and ride about 10’ off of the bumpers of the cars in front of you, knowing you can stop in 88 feet from 70 MPH.

#36

I have a st60 355mm bbk and can feel the PSS tires getting very greasy, and more importantly, wearing badly on the sidewall. I run carbotech pads, which are pretty solid from my experience. I’m also driving at the intermediate level with a car that I don’t want to wreck, so I doubt I’ll be pushing the tires to their limits. I’m definitely not doing any kind of lap or sector timing. Still trying to build basic skills and improve on smoothness. FWIW, every DE I’ve gone to has been at a new track (4 tracks, 4 DE’s), so it will be cool to revisit a track I’ve been to (Grattan).

In any case, I made a new thread about this, so we can talk there. My fault for derailing my own failure thread lol

#37

I think per mile driven, you’d get a lot more value out of Pilot Sport Cup 2. If you care for it like a PSS, you get amazing life out of them. R888 is a monster hammer, but extreme overkill unless you are getting close to magazine times on your home circuit. If I end up with Recaro shells and a rear seat rollbar, you might see me on HRE flow formed with Trofeo R tires.