New owner of a '13 RS5 looking for some advice

Hello all,

First of all, I am NOT generally a Car Guy. I’m a ghetto raised IT guy of 20 years at this point, but i know almost nothing about normal cars, much less this work of art.

Second, there have only been 2 cars in my life that really spoke to me. The '66 Nova SS, which I never got, sadly, and the '13-15 RS5, which i was NOT expecting to buy, and yet somehow it all just worked out. My first post about this car is located here, and please be gentle, i was still completely RPM drunk when i wrote it. I’ve been told its a good read though. :wink:

So I am now driving my literal dream car, the '13 RS5. Wanted a '15, but this one was simply too close to me, priced too well, in too good a shape aesthetically, and just flat out too damn pretty to pass on.

Plus, i think she likes me.

Aaaaanyway, sorry lol, I was wondering what one might expect to pay to have each section of the drive train rebuilt. there is nothing mechanically wrong with mine currently, and I don’t like, want to do it, but if something major happens to this thing what should I expect to pay? Any tips a first time RS5 owner should be aware of? Any info is highly appreciated. Please help me keep my baby happy and healthy.

Also, I feel like this may be a bad idea, but if there is one complaint i have, it’s the tech. It’s not terrible or anything, it’s just… almost like… a -really- bad neck tattoo? I dunno, i mean, it doesnt really affect anything, i can still do all the stuff i would normally with on a newer vehicle, it’s just… underwhelming i think might be a better way to put it.

so anyway, just wanted to run this by someone who knows, or has some relevant experience. Would it be a terrible idea to replace the current infotainment system with this:

[Quote]

8.8 " Android 9 Navigation Radio Car Stereo Head Unit Audio Player

Compatibility:

  • This Android Navigation Radio Can Be Installed in Audi A4L A5 Rs5 2013-2016
  • Standard universal double din brain.
  • Vehicle specific harness and/or Canbus decoder box available for many vehicles at additional cost. We will email you after order placed if they are available.

Main Features:

  • 8.8 inch HD touch screen.
  • Installation of Android apps in Play Store and from “Unknown sources”.
  • Optional 4G LTE and built-in Carplay and Android Auto support. App installation from Play Store. Navigation with any Android navi apps.
  • Support most audio and video format.

Optional Accessories:

  • Add $10 for an aftermarket backup camera.
  • Compatible DVB-T, DVD, DVR comes at different prices and designs.
  • Please contact us for more information.

Specifications:

-Intel 9853 Platform, Android 9 or 10

-RAM: 4GB, ROM: 64GB INAND

-Screen: 8.8 inch capacitive touch screen

-Resolution: 1280*480 IPS Anti-glare Display Screen

-Radio: Support original Radio

-Bluetooth: Built-in Bluetooth and Support Original Bluetooth

-CD/DVD: Support original CD/DVD

-GPS Navigation: Yes

-Wifi: Yes

-3G/4G : Optional

-DVR: Support USB 2.0 & AV/CVBS

-Video format: Support H264、MP4、AVI、RMVB、FLV、MKV, etc

-Audio format: Support MP3、WMA、FLAC、APE、AAC, etc.

-Video Decode: 1080P

-USB: 2 USB cables, USB Max support 64G

-Multiple Languages: Yes

-Phonelink Function: AirPlay(for iPhone), Miracast( for Android)

-DAB Digial Radio: Option

-Carplay&Android Auto: Optional

Is it hard to install the radio by myself?

Mostly, Android radios are plug and play, and usually there are videos available online showing how to replace radios in cars, so most of time people can install the radios by themselves. We can also provide live assistance online upon request. However, if you are afraid of breaking anything in your car, it’s better to pay a professional to do the installation.

Will all factory features be retained?

Most features from the factory, like steering wheel control, backup camera, Bluetooth phone calls, etc, are retained. For many Chevy, GMC, Cadillac, Infiniti, and Ford vehicles, the OEM UI may also be displayed and controlled on the head unit screen, thus retaining almost all factory features, including SXM radio, OnStar® and SYNC®. However, currently, without additional module(s) most other Android head units may not have SXM radio. [SiriusXM Commander Touch™] may be used to get satellite radio; alternatively, Sirius app for Android may be used with Internet connection. [iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module] may be used to retain SYNC®, OnStar®, Uconnect®, etc. Voice control can also be[ realized with Google Voice Search]. We have yet to map a steering wheel switch to activate the feature. Sometimes, factory AUX input is also lost.[/quote]

Well damn. That didnt take long. Just drove around a bit and stopped to look at some used cars for my wife and when we went to leave the car wouldnt start. A jump got it going again so its probably just a bad battery but 4 dyas after buying ut? Yeesh. That doesnt bode well lol. im at the dealership i bought it at and theyre looking at it now.

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A dead battery on the RS5 is extremely unusual with many people on this very forum reporting having original batteries. These cars are unbelievably reliable compared their direct competitors from the era, the BMW 3 series. The few issues that these cars have are pretty well documented. A lift or ramps, the VCDS software, a basic set of tools and sockets plus some triple squares, and a DIY attitude will get you very far with this platform. Best of luck moving forward and welcome to the club!

Thanks. It seems it is an original battery. Replaced it at no cost to me and tested telling me there is no draw on it during operation so 🤷 does appear to be working fine.

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So I had the 115k mile service done. they recommended i replace the upper and lower control arm bushings. even sent me a video showing me the wear on them. then quoted me a price of $2600 to do it.

#1, i do see the wear, but it looks like theyre just starting to tear, so am i crazy thinking that can wait for a while? there is no play in the steering or anything. Also, I have read that those bushings are a normal problem with pretty much all of that generation of Audi. I can only assume someone somewhere decided it was a good idea to create some upgraded bushings that dont wear out as easily. Unfortunately, i’ve no idea where to look. Will mechanics install parts you bring them assuming they are compatible? dont take that as i want o put cherap crap in my baby to save some dough, i’m cheap, but only to a point. if i replace something, i want it to be an upgrade.

#2 I have no point of reference for that price. I can only assume thats pretty high, i mean it is a dealership, so that is my default assumption. confirm/deny?

#3 are there any reputable Audi mechanics besides the dealership that i can trust in the Charlotte, NC Area? I joined the Audi North America Club, but i don’t see anything regarding that kind of info, no forums that i could find, nothing. it did give me a 10% discount for service at the dealership but that was overridden by the 15% discount i get from who my employer is.

Also, the mechanic question has a lot more to do with future business than this particular issue. I want to do… things… to her, but definitely dont want to pay dealership prices. :sunglasses:

For a full front end refresh your looking at around $800 in parts. With that mileage you probably need a full refresh to include balljoints and steering tie-rods plus all 4 control arms and new hardware (bots & nuts). $2600 in pricey as the job takes less than a full day for sure. Meyle HD & Lemforder are both OE quality and will last you 50-70k miles. 034 Motorsports makes one that is a little harder rubber so it sounds like it will last a little longer but who knows. I’d be surprised if none of yours have been done up to this point. Remember, it’s a 8yr old car with over 100k miles on it.

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yeah no, that was just for the bushings. they werent going to replace anything but the bushings.

It’s a lot of work (labor) to press out the old bushings and to press in new ones, parts are much less though although you are not getting a new ball joint on the one end. So paying less for parts but more for labor by just doing the bushings. I’ve done it both ways and will never do the bushings alone and I have a 20ton press in my shop and all of the bushing easily available.

Standard is swapping the control arms at the dealar or not but personally would not pay that at the dealer. Although regular maintenance is not a bad idea, rust spray should hopefully get them off even if you leave them on a bit longer. If you lift off the two rubber pads on the wheel housing after popping the hood, you can inspect them. I silicone spray them you can probably get an even better spray and they will last you a bit longer. If you want the comfier ride keep/go factory. I take it go for the stiffer race non OEM stuff anyway?