New s6 owner checking in

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

Hi guys i was recommended this site by the previous owner i bought my 2007 Audi S6 from, i picked it up about 2 weeks go, and im enjoying it so far, coming from a “modified” subaru to this is, its a different breed altogether!

Mods it has:
Milltek non-resonated exhaust(also have the resonated sections for it)
K&N air filters
RS6 front grille( needs s6 badge attached)
RS6 steering wheel
AMI and some other bluetooth stuff for the multimedia
62000 miles on the clock and in pretty good condition in general

I went with my old Subaru buddies to a dyno day for the fun to see how it sounded on full load(niiiiice) and also see what power it was putting down in current condition on Irish fuel(95 ron, probably more like 93 this time of year!) I doubt it could loose nearly a 100 hp since im running it on 95 instead of 97? is there a way to reset the ecu so it re-learns AFR tables etc?

Unfortunately it only made 352 hp and similar torque. Runs were done in 4th gear on a Dynapak. The dyno guys said there must have been some bad electrical interference as there was some spikes on the graph and when he touched the drivers door from the outside he got two bad static shocks which you can see in the video below. So i need some help to try and figure out if there maybe an issue with the car.

Old and new:

http://i.imgur.com/KXtMiB1.jpg

Nice wheel:

http://i.imgur.com/ETy9lyZ.jpg

https://youtu.be/XifyVy9f2lg

The previous owner said he had the engine bore-scoped last year and it was free from carbon build up but it might be worth checking that again.

Is there anything else i should be checking? The spikes you can see on the final run worry me!

I there any data logging software or device i can buy for these cars that would help capture data in realtime? I use Romraider for my Legacy so im hoping there is something similar

Thanks for reading!

#2

The nice part of audis is the system that audi has. It’s very complex. You can use a tool called vagcom. It’s not cheep but it works very well.

As for the AFR isn’t going to be off as you have wide band 02 sensors. If there was any fuel or AFR issues you would get a code.

The hp is about right given past results and the difference between each dyno. To give you a refrence. The RS4 is rated at 418 hp and most rs4 dyno results also come back in the low 300 range.

Something that might be worth looking into is the intake manifold. It’s normal to have the internal flaps to break. That can kill upper rpm power. Pulling off the intake you can look at both that and the carbon. After that on the reinstall you can put in the jhm intake spacers. It’s. Great way to keep the intake charge cool while also keeping the rest of the parts under the hood cool.

Looks great nice to have you. The car looks great

#3

Thanks for the quick reply, so my power was estimated at the flywheel and not at the wheels so thats why i thought it was a bit on the low side. I just discovered some info about the JHM spacers, they seem like a good product to help reduce the heatsoak, i did a lot of work on my legacy myself but hopefully im competent enough to remove the intake manifold to check for carbon build up and add the spacers while there. Is there any major modifications needed to any ancillary parts once you raise the manifold up 10mm.

Should i get the car tuned since it has the milltek system and k&n filters fitted? I hear there are msds filters, would this be a better option or would they be pretty much on par performance wise?

Which model of vagcom cable do i need? i see many different variations available

Sorry for all the questions, feel free to tell me to shut up or point me towards some posts that have already covered this

#4

Just did the JHM spacers last week. I had really bad carbon build-up and my manifold flaps were broken, so I had to drop $1700 USD on a new manifold :frowning:

Only note on the spacer install is the bracket on the front left corner (passenger side for you, having a RHD vehicle) of the engine needs to be adjust a little bit so it doesn’t interfere with the actuator arms for the manifold flaps. It’s the little bracket that bolts to the engine hoist bracket.

Also, I went ahead and left all 4 of the engine hoist brackets off when I put everything back together. It give you more room to install the manifold and makes things easier. If I ever pull the motor out i’ll simply bolt them back on.

#5

(also, Nice Subaru. I came over from the Subaru side recently as well, but still have my STI swapped SF Forester as well as a Factory Five 818) :slight_smile:

#6

Welcome to the fourm. I love the suede inserts. I had a modified legacy gt as well. Def. Great bang for the buck and fun car overall, I miss it at times, but not as much as I miss my s6…enjoy

#7

Seems like there is a few subaru owners on here!

Im looking to lower it a small bit to give it a slightly more sporty and agressive look. Im looking for opinions on the h&r springs and how they change the handling and comfort levels of the car.

#8

Are you asking about the S6 or the subaru for suspension. I assume the S6 but wanted to make sure. HnR is good stuff for a good price

#9

Sorry yeah for the s6 I mean. Legacy is currently on coilovers.

I’m just trying to take out that boat like feeling the s6 has without spending too much on mods or loose too much comfort. I swore I would not mod this car, which is the main reason why I bought it! There is no cheap way to extract more power from it!

#10

Has anybody ever had a lock actuator fail on these S6’s?

I never noticed when i bought the car and previous owner actually ordered me one up on ebay, however after swapping that in this evening it seems like that lock has suffered the same fate as the passenger door does still not open from the outside when you unlock the car.

So i can either go buy a brand new one from Audi for 180 euro plus vat or the problem is somewhere else. Anybody ever see any other failures that cause this or is it 100% the door lock?

#11

As for the suspension h&r have a nice coil over kit check V8a6 and his build thread as he has a write up on his suspension I think

As for the door lock try an output test in vag-com. That should help you individually test the system to see if it’s just something small. Did you put in the actuators. Do you have any pictures

#12

door card off:

http://i.imgur.com/f6DZOD9.jpg

speaker out:

http://i.imgur.com/2eibXjh.jpg

ebay replacement lock:

http://i.imgur.com/HEHGz8F.jpg

I might just go pick up a new one from the dealer at lunch time. 220 euro though! VW mechanic i talked to suggested with the current symptoms its the door lock thas faulty. 500 euro+ to get replaced at the dealer so ill try it myself with the new one and hopefully it works. otherwise i can see the new lock locally hopefully :o

#13

New lock purchased from Audi today, that was painful, cost me 220 euro. However previous owner said he would cover the cost for me, so happy days!

I swapped in the lock and all is good now. I need to stick the sound insulation back on, put the door card and trim back on and clear the codes.

This is enough to give you access to the lock, leave your window up:

http://i.imgur.com/vLBDfcR.jpg

Audi optional torch mount!!:

http://i.imgur.com/QnjV5DZ.jpg

That little black clip and be awkward to get out:

http://i.imgur.com/VBgxw5N.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Wo8bIzU.jpg

Old and new:

http://i.imgur.com/Hk7sQGX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TKNtOZE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DR1TpJV.jpg

#14

Hepful post. That should be helpful to a lot of people. If you want you can always load pictures to the site. Check the upper right hand corner the load tab.

#15

Thanks, there is similar posts on other forums so i didnt go into a lot of detail. I can do if needed. One stupid thing i did though was marked the door skin taking out the lock unit, so ill have to get some PDR guy to remedy that for me.

Ran the auto scan on vcds after everything was back together today and it has only the faults below:

1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100101
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 203
Mileage: 101010 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.12.10
Time: 18:29:45

Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: 4F0-910-273-HI.lbl
Part No SW: 4F0 910 273 C HW: 4F0 907 273 A
Component: Reifendruck 3 H05 0100
Revision: 00050100 Serial number: 00000900019940
Coding: 0222725
Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200
VCID: 234FE960E210E32656-8076

1 Fault Found:
02214 - Tire Pressure Warning
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 217
Mileage: 100553 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.11.26
Time: 17:51:29

         Freeze Frame:
                (no units): 0.0
                Temperature: 15.0°C
                Error Code: 128
                Pressure: 2.60 bar
                Pressure: 2.42 bar
                Pressure: 2.60 bar
                Pressure: 2.47 bar
#16

If thats the only codes you have thats a good thing.

Looks like its just tire related.

The control module Im not sure what module that is connected to but it only triggered once.

Its up to you on detail. Great post very helpful. with so many forums and so much bad information espically on the v10 most of the guys are trying to get all the good information here