New to rs4

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

Hi,
Can anyone shed some light on a few questions that I have.

  1. Does the rs4 have a after run fan like the turbo cousins? I have a Apr supercharger and when I turn the car off the water pump that comes with the kit stays on for around 5 minutes but no fan. When you turn the air con on both fans run.
  2. Is anyone with a supercharger running a gruppe m intake or different filter and does it throw a cel? I have been told that it can play havoc with the load calculations.
  3. What other mods would you do, it has as I mentioned before a Apr supercharger and full miltek exhaust.
  4. My flaps on the rear muffler seems to be always open. I thought they are supposed to be closed when the car is off?
    Thanks,
    Marty
#2

Hello and welcome.

I think a few questions would help us help you better. APR had 2 versions of there supercharger kit. The smaller 1300 and the larger 1700 do you know what one you have.

The fans wont usually kick on when you shut the car off. They can kick on but they usually dont. We do have electronic controled fans on our cars.

You should have no issues with the after market intake on the supercharger kit.

As for other mods do you have down pipes. The milltek is nice but its super small. Its not really a good exhaust if your looking for power. Its more of a sound changer then a performance support.

The muffler flaps only get adjusted of the milltek you have has the adjustments for the flaps added. If you want to take a picture we can tell you if there added or not.

#3

Hi thanks for the quick reply.
I only have the 1320 supercharger, exhaust and no dumps.
As far as mods/additions:
034-509-4001 transmission mount
034-402-4018 rear sway bar links
Jhh-sts b6b7rs4 shifter
034-509-2012 snub mount
034-402-1000 rear diff mount
And the gruppe m intake but just don’t want cell issues

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161023/2210b275910fdde8d26cef8834a68625.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161023/d981fde7aa43fa731a845abcaff0a009.jpg

#4

you do have the valved exhaust so it should be shut on start up and low rpm.

Look into getting the JHM 2.75 down pipes that mate to the stock catback they will really help wake up the car if you are on the stock down pipes right now.

How long have you had the supercharger and the car for.

Again you should be fine with the aftermarket intake. They are not really needed and dont make any difference on the NA motor but with the addition of the supercharger I think it would help a little.

#5

So is there a guide to error checking the flap function. I can move them with my fingers so they definitely are not seized.

#6

There is a vacuum test you can run using VCDS - I believe the muffler flaps are part of that test. It’s been a long time since I’ve done the procedure. There is more than likely a DIY or how to with instructions on this site. I’ll dig around myself and see if I can link it here for you.

#7

Great suggestion this can be done in the engine out put test. You can actuate the exhaust valve

#8

Awesome thanks guys, going to order a rosstech now.

#9

Let us know when you get it. they are great tools. If you need help let us know

#10

Will definitely be taking you up on that. Previous car had a vipec stand alone ecu, so it was super easy to get into and around parameters. This system looks a tad daunting…

#11
  1. Yes, the RS4 does have after run fans that will run if the engine is very hot after it has been pushed hard but they don’t normally run after normal driving. The water pump that your hearing is the separate water pump for the supercharger cooling system, it is located just below the front licence plate under the separate intercooler for the supercharger and always runs for about 20mins after you turn the ign off. That is completely normal.

You can see a picture of the pump in this photo. https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5520/14372270420_6d638f5539_b.jpg

  1. You can run a different filter if you wish, some do run a gruppe m, they sound great but don’t do a lot for performance, especially if your in a lot of traffic as they tend to pull alot of hot air from the engine into the intake and then raise the IAT which kills performance. I’ve got a K&N panel filter in the OEM airbox with a separate cold air feed after removing the drivers side(AUS) aux radiator, that has worked quite well as it keeps IAT down when in traffic. Lots of posts on RS246 about doing a cold air feed.

My Cold Air Feed

Parts

https://s14.postimg.org/6a3aw9tdd/image1.jpg

Rear

https://s3.postimg.org/gwdu4ewoz/image5.jpg

Front

https://s13.postimg.org/ul9b0blt3/image6.jpg

Fitted

https://s22.postimg.org/stcsmaxn5/image9.jpg

  1. I would put in a P3, that will allow you to keep an eye on IA temps, and then get to understand the benefits of bringing down the IAT. I don’t know where you live but they can make a significant difference to the performance of the car. I personally live in Aus (it doesn’t get below 0 where i am) and have now replaced my supercharger coolant with a demineralised water, this made a significant difference in how quick the temps would drop when moving compared to the G12 coolant that is in there.

As mentioned, do the down pipes, they will make a big difference to the car.

  1. You should be able to push the “S” button (with AUS delivered car you can) and hear the difference. I would say that the vacuum valve actuator on the exhaust have been disconnected since that are open all the time. Check under rear of car near exhaust valve for a vacuum line that has been blocked off. Connect that to Miltek valves and your exhaust should work again.
#12

Awesome thanks
I am based in Thornlands, Brisbane. Have you done the SAI delete also? I got rid of it on the s3 but am dubious about doing it on the rs4 purely based on the APR tune and if it will affect it or even if it can be coded out due to APR locking the ecu or is it done through vag com?

#13

So I just went out and checked the vacuum lines to the exhaust valves and they are all attached. I removed the vacuum line to both actuators and attached a new line and they move extremely easy when I manually sucked so they are defiantly not seized. So I must have a leak somewhere. Everyone talks about the feeling you get above 5500, I have never felt that so clearly my power flap at the air box is permanently open also (it’s open when the car is off). I have ordered my cable but hasn’t arrived, any other ideas/tests as to locating the issue before my cable arrives?

#14

Yes, I’ve removed the SAI pump. I don’t get any errors for it at all. You could test that by just disconnecting the pump & seeing if it throws any codes. you will only notice the pump on cold start. If you can’t hear it at the moment on cold start, i would say that it is already coded out. You should be able to get it from under the car once the under tray is removed, then disconnect electrical connector to SAI as a test, the next cold start it will either throw a code or not. I capped off the aluminum tube that runs along bank 1 and also the inlet into the airbox.

I don’t believe that you can code it with VCDS.

You should be able to go to your APR dealer and check that you have the latest revision of tune to suit. Mike Webber @ Prestige & Performance has done a few B7 RS4’s so I’d head there.

#15

Was your car the one fro sale in Canberra for awhile?

#16

usually you hear people talk about the extra power they feel after 5k when the car is stock due to the throttle being limited and not opening on the OEM tune all the way until after 5k.

You have the supercharger so your never going to feel that or have that issue. As for the flaps they could be coded open all the time in the program so that is something to think about. The vac lines run all the way to the front of the car and there is a solinoid up front that controls the vac to them but I dont know where it might be moved on a RS4. But when your cable shows up you should be able to test that with an output test. You can try blowing air back up into the lines and see if your able to hear a break in the system somewhere.

#17

Yes that is the car I purchased, flew down and drove back. What a crappy 15 hour drive. Everything booked out in Port so decided to keep going. Do you know the car?

#18

You could have been driving from Melbourne which is alot more boring.

I don’t know the car personally but I did see it for sale. I think it was around $45k from memory. I believe that it one of the first APR S/C cars because if i recall correctly, there isn’t an APR logo on the actual S/C. The blower is all black.

#19

Valid point about the 5k kick. You don’t really notice it with an S/C car.

Vacuum solenoid for the exhaust valves is located in the rear left (US drivers side) qtr guard below the Tv tuner location.

#20

as justin mentioned the 5500 kick is not ‘super power because RPMs!’…it is the threshold at which the stock tune throttle body restriction normally disengages

Up until 5500 RPM the stock tune limits the throttle to about 52% in cold temperatures due to a calculated torque limitation in the first few gears. Beyond 5500 RPM it goes full throttle and you feel the car pull away. If it’s mild out, it is limited to about 60-70% so the ‘kick’ is not as severe. If it’s 90 degrees and humid out and the density doesn’t support enough power/torque to warrant the torque/throttle restriction, the throttle is allowed to be 100% right through the rev range. This is while stock.

When you’re tuned (supercharged, or NA tuned) the throttle restriction is eliminated as most tuners figured out how to turn that off. So you ‘lose’ the 5500 RPM kick. But it’s not like you gained power before when you kick into 5500+…you’re just no longer LOSING power below 5500 rpm.