So I’ve been needing to put in 11 quarts when I do my changes. Is it because I get more out by sucking it up threw the dip stick hole vs draining through the plug on the bottom?
I ask because every kit out there for this motor only sells 10 quarts.
The kits probably have 10 quarts because it’s a convenient package - two 5qt jugs or a case of ten 1qt bottles. The car is supposed to take 11 quarts, that’s how much I use when I change my oil using the regular oil pan drain hole.
10.6 quarts, to be more precise
Ok well that makes sense then. I always buy extra anyways just making sure I wasn’t crazy.
No I got the same thing with the S4 its an odd amount of oil I usually get one or two extra and leave one quart in the trunk. It kinda sucks because 10.6 dosent leave you enough to do much with so pooring it in make for a better place to put it.
what oil do you use when you change your oil?
not sure what others use here. i picked up liqui-moly 5w-40 fluorescent to help me identify any oil leaks i don’t know about.
never hurts to pick up an extra quart doing an oil change, especially if you change the filter, because a new filter will absorb some oil.
been using Total Quartz 5w40 in summer and 0w40 in winter.
Was using Castrol Syntec 0w40 before (european formula); mostly because it usually goes on sale here for $27 per 5L jug (regular $55)
I’ve been using liqui moly 5w40 and the liquimoly cermatec additive
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180126/2be5da477fbe756a2213282ad8e17de6.jpg
Off-topic, but where did you get that grill? That’s awesome!
I think it was off amazon of all places…i wanna say it was $180 not including the s6 badge
Have people moved on from old reliable—Mobil1 0-40w?
Also, how difficult is it to reach the oil filter for changing? I usually pay to have someone change using the oil I bring, but out here they don’t like you to BYO.
It’s not that difficult to reach if you have the proper tools. Just remember to put it back in place correctly and you should be fine. Also, I highly recommend using a vacuum as opposed to draining from the oil pan. It was a huge PITA and waste of time when my Allen wrench seemed helpless against the plug… lol.
Vac oil change is possible but some have said there are baffles in the oil pan that might not let you get out all of the oil.
A conventional change isn’t hard at all. Pull the bottom plastic wind pan off and everything is right there. I really like doing the old way oil changes because it allows you the time to look over the bottom of the motor to make sure you don’t have any leaks and if there is anything suspect in the pan you are going to see it coming out the bottom drain Vs vac oil changes.
Lol. Invest in a good set of impact allen socket set (3/8" or 1/2" drive) and you’ll save a lot of grief. Can’t tell you how many times they’ve come in handy.
As for the oil filter, it’s partially blocked by the coolant line that runs to the oil separator fitting. I don’t know about other members here, but at some point someone cut the hard line on mine and added a rubber hose so I don’t have to disconnect it to change the filter.
also maybe this is a stupid thing to point out, but make sure your oil drain pan is 15L or more lol. There’s 10L of oil in that car, so the typical ones aren’t large enough obviously.
last tip… I used a hole saw and cut out a hole in the undertray so that I don’t have to remove it to do oil changes.
Got my car back after the last oil leak (behind the alternator). Two tiny gaskets were the culprits this time. Anyway, they changed the oil of course and I had them put in Motul instead this time since I heard on a video from a major performance shop in the UK that they see way less damage on motors with Motul. Anyway, I ended up with Motul 8100X/CESS 5w40