Is it constantly on or will it turn off when you restart the car. You can check the codes to get more of an idea. It’s worth just checking on its not the panic light so that’s good.
1 Fault Found:
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266)
29-00 - Short to Ground
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.lbl
Part No: 8E0 907 279 E
Component: int. Lastmodul USA 0305
Coding: 00013
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 346318E32EBD
1 Fault Found:
01504 - Bulb for License-Plate Light (X)
57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8E0 820 043 L
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1016
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 2A5F069BFC79
2 Faults Found:
01841 - Potentiometer/Actuator for Temperature Flap; Left (G220)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
So, I’ve been looking at some Google searches on this.
Some of the things people say to check are not too bright.
One person said to check for water in the passenger foot well.
Not sure of this one.
Some people said the problem was in the dash cluster and not actual sensor.
That would suck.
Some said they just cleaned the contacts on the cable and it went away.
I am going to try that but I don’t think it will work.
Its free and not to hard to do.
I had the same oil light on my b6 a4, and believe it was the same code as well, but cannot find my older logs to confirm. Replacing the sensor ended up doing the trick in my case.
If it comes back after cleaning the contacts and clearing the code, and the wiring to the sensor looks fine, I would just spring for a new sensor. It’s pretty cheap and easy to replace.
I was going to do it when I replace the oil this week.
On my VIN it says there is a split part number meaning there are two different part numbers for the sensor.
I am going to have to figure out which one I need.
More and more of a reason for Audirevolution there is a lot of bad data out there. The code looks like it could be the electronic connection. First test that then check the actual part number so you don’t order the wrong part. I would consider snapping a few pics and loading them up here to try and help others with this in the future.
Check to see what code comes up after you clear it and before it comes on. I would unplug it from the dash check that code and compare. The fact that something changed with the sensor change would say something. I don’t know why it would be in the cluster. I’f the cluster was bad you wouldn’t get the dash telling you.
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Check to see what code comes up after you clear it and before it comes on. I would unplug it from the dash check that code and compare. The fact that something changed with the sensor change would say something. I don’t know why it would be in the cluster. I’f the cluster was bad you wouldn’t get the dash telling you.
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I’ll try again but the codes I got were a lot of codes saying the cluster was disconnected.
If you can try pulling the cluster back from the dash and checking the voltage when you do this. The delay is better then the instant messaging. The dash isn’t getting a signal at times but the dash is still reporting this to you that sorta says the dash is somewhat working
It’s hard to say electronic stuff is tricky and tracking down issues can he overly frustrating. The good news is that it’s not doing it now. If it is temp related that should help find the issue.