Hey guys, I recently took my b6 S4 to a local VAG shop where I had them preform a compression test. The results all showed compression between 132-151. Other than the one cylinder at 132, all others showed between 140-151.
I spoke with Brian (Wolfs4) via text message a little and he referred me to this [URL] http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=727.0 /URL] . I asked if they did the compression test wet or dry, and they said it was don’t by driving the car then doing it with the motor still warm. Would this give the same result as adding oil the the cylinders?
A little background on the car, its a 2004 and I’m just a hair under 124,000 miles. The car will burn about a qt of oil every 1200-1400 miles, I just now did spark plugs and new PCV also I change the oil every 5k with Liqui Moly . For what its worth I average about 270-300 miles per tank and about 19-21mpgs running 93 octane.
I would just like to get an idea on where my motor stands health wise. I know the numbers aren’t excellent, but I’d like to get the AR communities opinion. Thank you all in Advance, Nick!
To help get you a better idea we would need the actual numbers per cylinder. If you paid for a test these numbers per cylinder will help tell you more about the health of the motor.
A dry test is the best way to do the rest. You usually only want to do a wet test when your trying to see what’s wrong with any one cylinder.
If you can get the per cylinder compression results that would be helpful. Also see if you can get them to tell you how they performed the test. Some people keep cranking till the numbers quit climbing and some people do a 4 or 5 crank cycle.
I can get you more information if you can answer those few questions. The short answer is. that’s not too bad. Om the results.
You should have your oil analyzed. It will tell you a lot about the condition of your engine. I use Blackstone Labs every other oil change.
Thank you for the response Justin, I really appreciate the help!! Here are the numbers per cylinder.
1~ 132
2~148
3~140
4~150
5~142
6~142
7~151
8~148
As far as they’re method of how they did it I’m not sure, I will send them an email tomorrow asking them which way they preformed it. As far as the analyzing the oil I will probably give that a shot seeings as I’m due for a change in about 1500mi. I appreciate all the information guys!
I really enjoy helping feel free to bring whatever questions you have. More and more really great guys are making there way over here and lots of great technical talk going on. I’m just glad I can add to it.
The numbers are low but not bad.
I’ll drop some great technical talk on you that you won’t read anywhere else.
CV showed this to me and when you look it almost always true. Check here to compare your results and please add yours to the list
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=727.0
what your numbers say is that your motor is taking the usual ware rate that these 4.2 motors get after years of use. Generally you want to reduce the miles between oil changes and make sure your getting as much heat out of the motor as possible.
Here is what CV mentioned to me and it appears to be true. Strong motors always have a good reading on the number 1 cylinder. Usually the number one cylinder is the weaker cylinder of all the cylinders. There is a long explanation on why this is but your motor readings stay true to that pattern. The rest of your readings are not too bad and show even ware. It’s not the strongest motor but it’s not bad. The balance in how close the numbers are show your block isn’t warped or warping.
Are you someone that let’s your car warm up in the winter.
Let me know how they did the test. That would be helpful as well.
I’m emailed them asking how they preformed the test and I’m waiting on a response. Winter times warms ups, yes. I had the car in upstate NY for 3 years and the winters up there get pretty cold. So every start up I would wait for the RPMs to drop then I’d wait another minute or so after that before I would go. Then I would always wait at least 15 mins after I reached operation temp to even think about getting into it. Even year round I usually let the RPMs drop before I take off and let it fully heat up before I go past 3000rpms.
I do have Catless downpipes and I am JHM flash tuned, I know being catless takes away a lot of hear from the motor. I’ve also read that JHM cars will pull power when its too hot to reduce risk of damage to the motors?
While waiting on the answers to how they preformed the test I have pictures of the plugs. Unfortunately they are not labeled as to what went where. Not sure if this is helpful at all but here they are. Pretty corroded IMO.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/23/48e4d8b1606f8117e9708304e82e7162.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/23/d8c6a8120d0b08d0c035a7179492128b.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/23/40e5192089a14afcca11300a489e6440.jpg
The plugs looked like they needed to be changed but I don’t see anything that stands out as an issue.
On the cold start. Pony start and wait a few seconds before leaving even waiting 1 min is too long. Your right to not beat on the car till it warms up but the block won’t hear up evenly if you let the car idle for too long.
Thanks again Justin, I emailed where I had the test done and I’m still waiting for a response. As soon a I get a response I’ll be able to disclose how the test was preformed. So with the results of my motor not being the greatest but not being the worst. What would you guys recommend I do?
I love this car too much to ever get rid of it, I’m willing to deal with all the headaches along the road. The car just brings me too much joy when I drive it! So what should be a good route go go down? I’ve wanted to and was thinking about going for a JHM N2O kit this spring. But with the given health of the motor would that not be wise? I know throwing more power at anything is going to increase the chance of failure. I’m just trying to figure out how far I should go before enough is enough for the stock block.
I know of and have been following every bit of information I can find on the JHM built motor program. And I also have read they’ve got quite the waiting list going as well, Plus the time it takes for the build. I know they’re waiting to streamline the process before official release, which I’m hoping/guessing we may see this spring?? So my main question is should I risk throwing more power at the motor and potentially throw a rod or who knows what. Or should I wait for JHM to release the program and get the health of the motor in order first? Just trying to plan out the best route of action without getting to ahead of myself.
Here is the response they gave me to how they did the test “He said it was a 10 count with the engine up to temperature.” Seems a little vague, hope it will help!
A 10 count should have been more then long enough.
The big things your looking at are the chains. There are lots of us with nos or supercharged jhm stuff. The big killer is heat and the timng components