P0023/P1060 - B Camshaft position

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

I got my car back, and after putting in a new battery, everything runs smoothly at speed. However, I still get occasional rough idle and these faults while the engine is cold:

P0023 - “B” Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 2
P1060 - Bank 2, cam shaft adjustment discharge opening, interruption

I’ve had these codes forever, they seem come and go, but now it seems they’re here to stay. What does the VVT/cam solenoid actually do while the engine is cold?

I’ve already done the following:

  • The 2-pin wiring for both intake/exhaust cam solenoids on the driver side were falling apart and replaced with new connectors
  • the exhaust cam solenoids were swapped between the driver/pass side

Even after these changes, I still get the code on “B” Camshaft Position. Previously, I assumed Bank2 is the driver side and “B” refers to the exhaust cam solenoid because the wiring there was clearly damaged. But after the new connectors and solenoid swap, I was assuming the problem would go away or follow a bad cam solenoid. Unfortunately, it has stuck with Bank2/B.

any thoughts?

#2

I did a bunch of googling and found the following:

Bank2/Driver Side

  • [3] Inlet camshaft timing adjustment valve (N208)
  • [4] Exhaust camshaft timing adjustment valve (N319)



Camshaft Adjustment Valve Bank2 Exhaust

Test requirements

  • Fuse SA3 OK
  • ECM power supply relay (J271) OK
  • Battery Voltage >12.5V
  • All electrical switched off
  • Trans in P or N
  • GND connections between engine/trans/chassis OK
  • Ignition OFF

Procedure

Check Resistance

  • Disconnect Cam Adj Valve 2 (Bank2/exhaust) (N319) electrical harness connector 4
  • Check internal resistance between terminals 1/2 on solenoid
    • Expecting 5.0-8.0 Ohms @ 20C,
    • replace cam solenoid if otherwise

Check Voltage

Relay and fuse panel in e-box plenum chamber left (next to ECM2?)

  • Switch ignition ON
  • Check harness voltage between terminals 1/2, Switch ignition OFF
    • Expecting battery voltage, ~12.5V
    • If otherwise,
      • Check the wiring connection from the Cam Adj Valve 2 (Bank2/exhaust) (N319) harness connector terminal 2 to the ECM (2) Power Supply Relay (J271) socket 2/87 for an open circuit, short circuit to Battery (+) or Ground (GND).
        • Terminal 2 <=> (J271) socket 2/87
      • Check the wiring connection for damage

Check Wiring

  • Remove the Engine Control Module (ECM) 2 (J624)
  • Using a Multimeter, check the Cam Adj Valve 2 (Bank2/exhaust) (N319) harness connector terminal 1 to the Engine Control Module (ECM) 2 (J624) electrical harness connector T60b/21 for an open circuit.
    • (Intake N208) Terminal 1 <=> T60b/20
    • (Exhaust N319) Terminal 1 <=> T60b/21
  • Expecting resistance 1.5 Ohms max

Questions/Help

  • am I targeting the right part for a P0023/P1060?
  • which one is “B” camshaft position? my guess is ‘exhaust’…
  • where is ’ socket 2/87’ of the Power Supply Relay (J271)?
  • I know where ECM2 is located, but where is ’ ECM2 (J624) electrical harness connector T60b/21’?
#3

At one point, this was the last remaining fault on my engine, and it appeared intermittently (maybe linked to a bad battery issue, which has since been replaced). Now, it’s no longer the last, nor is it intermittent, but I digress.

The fault seems to be related to rough idle on cold starts. I reset the codes while the engine was warm, and drove aggressively for about 1 hour with no problems or codes.

According to the diagnostic notes above, I recorded the following values:

  1. 9.85V across terminals 1/2 on the 2-pin electrical connector into N319 (Bank2/exhaust Cam Solenoid), expecting battery voltage. (The ignition was switched to ON position but engine was NOT running)
  2. Internal resistance of the N319 solenoid measured 10.0 Ohms at 17.2C, expecting 5.0-8.0 Ohms @ 20C

Can I conclude that the solenoid is faulty, or is it within spec given the colder temps?

#4

There is a good chance this could be temp related. On many sides of the issue. You can check the cam adjuster and then the solenoid as they might be part of the non responsive feedback. The solenoid can be damaged causing this while still being able to function.

#5

I can replace parts like the cam solenoid, but I’m not sure how/where to begin when you say “check the cam adjuster”. Can you give me a link?

#6

I’m one T-handle T20 shy of being able to swap out the bank 2 exhaust cam solenoid.

But TBH, the Febi replacement also tested at 8.6 ohm on my DMM, just outside the recommended 5-8.0 range.

And then I had the brilliant idea to put a 12V across the inputs — I can hear a distinct click on all 3 solenoids, bank2 intake/exhaust/replacement.

I suspect that I may be barking up the wrong tree. So back to the cam adjuster — where is that and how do I check it?