P129B P1077 P1075

Cruising about 180 miles round trip last Tuesday (all freeway 70-90mph) and my EPC light came on. Once it was on, noticed the car still had power but wouldn’t pull above 4k rpm. Got home, shut it off, started driving again, EPC light was now off, but the engine light is on solid. Pulled the codes with my standard scanner and had Audi/VW specific codes

P129B- Fuel Pressure regulator
P1077- 02 sensor too lean bank 4
P1075- 02 sensor too lean bank 3

Assuming possible HPFP might be on its way out… i’ll pull vagcom codes later

thoughts?

I can say with about 99% certainty that it’s your HPFP’s. My car had identical symptoms, and that’s exactly what it was. Fortunately, they are easy to replace yourself. Unfortunately, they’re around $350 each, and you’re supposed to do both at the same time. Audi revised the part number at some point since my car was built, which means hopefully the newer ones are more reliable, but I can’t say for sure. I wrote a whole tutorial about this in the Infodump, I’ll see if I can copy and paste it to here, since this is now a 2nd case of this happening so it probably deserves its own thread.

High pressure fuel pump replacement

While mine is the first instance of this being a problem that I’ve seen reported, it was apparently not an unknown problem to Audi, as they have improved these fuel pumps recently.

The problem:

Very suddenly, my S6 lost the ability to rev over about 4k rpm. Any throttle input beyond about 20% actually resulted in the car slowing down! It was as if the engine was being suffocated. Turns out, that’s exactly what it was. The problem was accompanied by a solid-lit EPC light on the dash, which turned off after a while, until taking the RPM’s close to 4k again, when it would light back up. The Engine light would also illuminate solid occasionally, though not always at the same time as the EPC light, and also turned off after a while of driving the car gently.

The Diagnosis:

I took the car to my local German auto shop, and they quickly were able to determine that the fuel pressure at the high-pressure pumps (located as pictured below) were not functioning at all, the only fuel delivery was coming from the main pump in the gas tank. This problem is sometimes accompanied by (or the result of) bad camshaft chain followers, but we inspected mine and they were fine. Audi’s official recommendation is to replace both high-pressure pumps at the same time, even if only one of them is bad.

The solution:

The original Audi part number for this is 07L127026A. This has been replaced by a new part number, 07L127026AD. The MSRP is $490 each, however I found them online for $330 each, plus an insane shipping cost of $70 for Fedex Ground, but still almost $200 cheaper than MSRP for the pair. The new pump includes everything you need, so you won’t need to buy anything additional for this project, as long as you have torx bits and metric wrenches.

Once you’ve got your new fuel pumps, locate the existing ones. Here’s where to find the High-Pressure fuel pumps: (could it get any easier??)

http://i.imgur.com/BXdmZHe.jpg

And here’s what a new fuel pump looks like, straight out of the box:

http://i.imgur.com/f5QdrWU.jpg

The process is really simple. First, disconnect the wiring harness from the old fuel pumps (you’ll need something to poke the plastic tab, like a small flathead screwdriver). Then, make sure the engine isn’t piping hot, because you WILL spill some gasoline on top of it! Expect 1 or 2 tablespoons of gasoline to spill. Next, unscrew to fuel line nuts all the way using a wrench (you’ll need 2 different size metric wrenches, forget which sizes at the moment), and gently pull the fuel lines away from the pump if you can, if you can’t move them much don’t stress about it. Next, you will need to recover the old torx bolt/washer from the side of the old fuel pumps, to install into the new fuel pumps where the little black rubber protector is plugging. It’s in there REALLY tight, so it’s easiest to do this while the pumps are still mounted to the engine, otherwise you’ll probably need to use a vice. Finally, remove the 3 torx bolts for the fuel pump (and don’t lose them!), and pull the old pump out of the engine. Install the new pump in the opposite order, using your old bolts. Last, install the smaller torx bolts your removed from the old pumps, and tighten them hard to make sure they won’t leak. Plug in the wiring harnesses. Make sure all gasoline is cleaned up, and let the car sit for a little while to make sure any other gasoline has evaporated.

Start the car with the hood open, give the throttle a few revs, and check for leaks. If not leaking, you’re done!

I found these ones on eBay for you for $338 each, free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-07L127026AD-GENUINE-OEM-FUEL-PUMP-/322004267048

It’s the same exact part number for both sides. As mentioned above, make sure you buy the part number that ends in a D (the original audi part # was 07L127026A)

On a side note, I noticed JHM sells upgraded HPFP’s (and upgrade parts kits) for some other models, but not for ours. I still have my old broken HPFP’s, maybe when I pick up my car I’ll donate my old set of pumps to them for research and development.

Scan fault codes with your Vagcom and let us know what you find. Then look at the measuring value blocks channels 103, 106, and 140. I would want to see what the low side fuel pressure is and more importantly how well the high side fuel pressure actual values match the specified value. I am willing to agree that your high pressure fuel pumps are probably dieing.

Have your fuel injectors been serviced? If the high pressure fuel pumps are supplying the correct pressure then it is possible that the bank 2 fuel injectors are not flowing correctly.

Being banks 3 and 4 that really stands out as the entire driver side banks are lean. The fuel pressure code is also something to be worried about. The fact that the HPFP drives both bank 3 and 4 that would be a solid conclusion. Like jimmy said make sure to log ECU 2 for those meassureing blocks to get an idea on what the pressures look like but from the sound of it it looks like a failing HPFP pump