Parts / part numbers for gearbox rebuild

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

I’m basing the required parts list from the JHM full rebuild kit https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/transmission-rebuild-kit-0a3-mt-oem-full-collar-update-2nd-gear-for-b7-rs4-p-1507.html?cPath=21_56_310_311

Before anyone says “just buy that one” - the current exchange rate makes it way too expensive before I even add intercontinental shipping and import duties + 21% VAT at my end. Paying twice as much for the same OEM parts I can order in Germany seems like a bad idea. JHM’s price for actually rebuilding a box you send in is great, unfortunately it’s logistically impossible for me.

The numbers for the big parts are easy enough to find in ETKA but I’m having some issues filling in the numbers for seals and clips and such…

  • OEM 3-piece Synchronizer rings 0A2311283B x2 & 0A2311283A x4
  • OEM, UPDATED 1-2 Shift Collar or Synchro Hub 0A2311243B
  • OEM, UPDATED 2nd Gear 0A2311261C
  • OEM Input Shaft Seal ?
  • OEM Input Shaft Seal C-Clip ?
  • OEM Input Round Seal or O-Ring ?
  • OEM Selector Shaft Seal ?
  • OEM Front Output Shaft Seals (2) ?
  • OEM Rear Differential O-Ring Seal ?
  • OEM Selector Shaft O-Ring Seal ?
  • OEM Selector Shaft Detents 0A2301242 x2
  • OEM Rear Output Shaft Seal ?

All synchros with a new second gear and shift collar are ~1150$ in parts so far with 19% VAT included. Just need to add the seals and rings…

I need to order parts BEFORE my gearbox gets opened. I don’t have time to wait and see what needs to be replaced. I have no crunching from first to second gear, but 3rd gear is terrible. I guess it would be prudent to include a new 3rd gear and 3rd gear collar? Question is should I order the second gear itself…the most expensive part in the list, or just a new collar? It’s probably not in new condition but it’s not bothering me thus far. Thoughts?

#2

First and second gears have much beefier synchros than the rest of the gears.

#3

Yes, and the p/n are different. I’m just wondering if it makes sense to order a new gear for second or not. It costs 3 times more than 3rd gear for some reason.

#4

The gears (1 & 2) are beefier as well. I doubt that you would need a new second gear: third, maybe. Depends on how much abuse it has seen.

#5

Thanks! 3rd and its shift collar are relatively cheap, might as well order them. For second the price is high enough to make me wonder. I don’t want to end up short on parts while the box is being repaired. Leaning towards only getting the shift collar for 2nd then…
Any idea where I could look up the seals and such? Drawing a blank with ETKA.

I guess those small parts could probably be sourced here in Russia at short notice but still better safe than sorry.

#6

Can’t help on the part numbers. Sorry.

#7

I have had pretty good success with taking a small, high quality, carbide or better, conical grinding tool and at least deburring the engagement teeth on the gear if I can’t or won’t replace the gear itself. It can take a lot of time and care to not mess up the engagement teeth, but it can make them a lot smoother. As for the roundness of their top profiles, that will cause the new synchronizers to wear out much more quickly than the first set of synchronizers, when the gears were new as well. But that’s not really something you can fix, as reprofiling the top of very worn engagement teeth will likely make them weak enough that they could be broken off, which would be very bad.

#8

I know you want to reduce down time but I would wait till the transmission is open and inspected. You will get the better picture. Right now your trying to get parts you think will be bad. I would extend the time the car is down and spend the money when you know what’s bad. Otherwise your spending money on things that might not be bad and when the time comes you might not have enough money left for the things that are bad. Ususually the 3rd gear synchro is toast. Of your going to still get parts before you know what’s going on inside that’s usually one of the bad parts.

#9

[quote=“SquiddyB6S4,post:7,topic:6935”]
That’s a great point, thanks! I’m pretty set on getting at least a new 3rd gear, as it’s only a $150 item. Second gear, which is at this point not crunching, is nearly 300$. And it has stronger synchros to begin with so it feels a bit more optional to me right now.

[quote=""]
That’d be ideal, yes… I could live with an extra 3 week delay personally but it’s not ideal to have the car with all its bits out at the shop so long. They’re limited with the space they rent and I’m effectively going to have to outsource the gearbox work to another company so I don’t want to slow them down too much on getting the car back together and out of there.

I figured a JHM rebuild kit is quite likely to cover everything necessary, as they’ve done plenty of these transmissions and have seen what needs to be replaced most of the time. I’m just adding 3rd gear to it and looking up the part numbers to order it in Europe. Worst case scenario I have to order something extra from Europe, wouldn’t be a huge setback.

Biggest concern now is if I’ll have enough time to get the parts before I leave on holiday March 3rd. It’s 2 weeks lost if I don’t.

I can’t update the OP but some of the missing p/n on that list are 0A2311091A, 012311113B, 0A3301323, 010409580, 0A2311152. In case anyone ever comes across this post in search of these things.

#10

For $300, I’d go ahead and grab second gear. If you’re even bothering to rebuild the gearbox AND pay somebody else all the labor for remove/install and the rebuild, I assume you’re planning to keep the car for quite a while. Second gets used a lot more than third, and as I said, worn engagement teeth will wear out the new synchronizers faster than new engagement teeth. What is $300 in this project, a 10% or 12% increase? In my experience, sight unseen/low down time always costs more, and this is why.

#11

Fair point.

Labor isn’t a big factor in this case as the engine is already coming out for a different issue. I think I can get the box done for roughly 2 grand parts included.

#12

He probably doesn’t have a lot of confidence in his mechanic/tuner being able to diagnose it though. The same guy was too intimidated to do the job initially, and he is also the same guy who put the wrong spark plugs in the car, leading to his misfire and stumbling issues.

#13

How often are you going to repeat the same falsehood about spark plugs? You can’t have missed that after every instance I’ve pointed out that they were correct plugs according to Audi and ETKA. There’s more than one approved plug for the RS4 if you didn’t notice yet.

And my usual mechanic is not going to be rebuilding the gearbox. As the engine is out anyway I’ll have the gearbox picked up and rebuilt by people who are used to rebuilding manual transmissions.

Thanks for contributing nothing of relevance anyway.

#14

What is the concern with the engine again?

#15

It’s in the other topic, video included. Noise from timing chain system or flywheel or something, wrong side of the engine for easy diagnosis.

But if you don’t mind me saying, it’s really rather difficult to keep a clean and factual topic on this board, strewth!

I was looking to see if someone had looked up these parts before, which didn’t seem to be the case, so I ended up searching the part numbers myself and shared them. (though the first p/n for synchros doesn’t need the “B” at the end - sadly I can’t edit) Overall I would say it was generally informative.

Then along comes Saki and his imaginings which were a) factually incorrect and b) irrelevant to the topic. Pointing this fact out of course nets another negative rating ::slight_smile:

Fortunately most others here appear to be actually grown up so it’s not a total loss.

I’ll update the other topic as I find out more and repairs/rebuilds progress.

#16

ummm…maybe when you showed your ass to the forum in your first thread people kind of checked out on helping you. Your karma reflects the fact that I’m not the only one who finds you insufferable.

As for me being off topic, I was on topic, trying to explain to the forum why you’re doing the legwork for your mechanic.

Back to that…I figure that if I’m paying someone $1000 labour or so to do a major job on my car, shouldn’t they be able to figure out what parts they need, and how to do the job? Isn’t that why you hire a pro in the first place? Is it possible you’ve found ANOTHER mechanic who doesn’t know Audi parts very well? Nice one!

Sounds like you’re again dealing with the wrong people…but will now tell me I’m wrong and that they’re experts, and are great. Justincredible pointed out the obvious. You don’t diagnose a problem by guessing in advance and buying parts. You diagnose, then you order parts, then you proceed. You’re doing the equivalent of writing a prescription before you meet the patient.

So far everything you’ve posted about ‘experts’ and ‘greatness’ has been hollow and shown the forum that you frankly don’t have a clue what you’re talking about (your mechanic, your tuner, your idea of the ‘fastest NA RS4 in the world’ which turned out to be MUCH slower than my barely modded RS4 etc).

#17

I’ve never been in any car forum with this much arguing and pointless drama. Seriously.

The problem is you assume a lot of stuff without knowing. Did I say anywhere that my regular mechanic is doing the gearbox? I didn’t did I? The actual reason I’m looking up these parts myself is that I want to have them before the box is sent to be rebuilt. Because I know the parts will take a month to order the regular way. There isn’t that much time. I want to give them the box, the parts, and have it back in one unit within a few days max.

And by now you should know that your “incorrect spark plug” jibe is BS as well. Hasn’t stopped you from using it 3 or 4 times now.

[quote]Sounds like you’re again dealing with the wrong people…but will now tell me I’m wrong and that they’re experts, and are great.
[/quote]
I’ve never said or claimed such a thing. They’re the best I’ve found around here, if you know any star Audi mechanics in Moscow, Russia feel free to let me know who they are. You have made far more assumptions about people you do not know than I have given actual information. For someone who always needs to be right you’re scarily comfortable with believing your own guesswork.

[quote]Justincredible pointed out the obvious. You don’t diagnose a problem by guessing in advance and buying parts. You diagnose, then you order parts, then you proceed. You’re doing the equivalent of writing a prescription before you meet the patient.
[/quote]
Is that why JHM is selling rebuild kits? ::slight_smile:

The gearbox issues are obvious enough to diagnose with a very high chance of being correct. Replacing all synchros plus the 2 most used gears and their shift collars is very likely sufficient. In case it isn’t, I only lose as much time as I would lose waiting for parts otherwise. It’s logical. Odds are it will save a lot of time.

[quote]your idea of the ‘fastest NA RS4 in the world’ which turned out to be MUCH slower than my barely modded RS4 etc
[/quote]
Stop changing my words to mean something different. It’s not polite. What I said, and the exact video it related to, was accurate.

#18

I’m not sure in what way I’m supposed to have insulted the forum/you. In any case you appear to be the only one still holding a grudge over my scientific approach to your cherished data to the point you’re derailing another topic which was perfectly rational and civilized until that point. I’ve not flung any insults about or misrepresented your statements. You’re the only one here I see losing his cool over nothing, but maybe you are the biggest part of the forum.

[quote]Your karma reflects the fact that I’m not the only one who finds you insufferable.
[/quote]
They appear to be little more than circlejerk points, so I don’t mind having less. It’s obvious that negative ratings are the result of (mostly) you not liking what I say rather than it actually being wrong. Your post in this topic and the subsequent negative rating for calling out your BS illustrates that well. Shrug.