Permanent fix for broken flaps in the intake Manifold....?

A6 All/ S6 All
#1

I took my manifold apart because of the ticking noise I heard after I pulled it to fix the oil filter housing oring, and the damn thing broke when reinstalling it. (I’m pretty sure I dropped the intake Manifold when I was putting it back in. I guess it’s not made to handle a shock like that.

Anyways. One of my 10 flaps was broken. The most front flap on the drivers side. Also the last of 10 in the Daisy chain. I probably could have cut open the bracket between 9 and 10 and plastic welded the flap back to #9 but I was in a bad mood and just ripped out the entire driver side Daisy chain. So right now I have functional flaps on the passenger side and none on the drivers side. I thought I’d keep half the low end torque. I sealed the manifold back together. Well my low end torque sucks now as expected. It’s half way there. Hahaha. One thing that did change is the intake sounded mean. Lol. Oh well.

Here is my new idea for a permanent fix for low end torque.
To activate the long runners and provide low end torque, which is like 99% of daily driving, the flap must be flat and shut off the holes in the bottom sealing the short runner bypass.

I’m going to buy a broken manifold, break it open.
Rip out all 10 flaps.
Next I’m going to make a fiberglass piece covering all 10 openings.
When I pull the piece out, there will be dimples for each intermediate bracket location between the flaps. I’m going to drill through a few of these at maybe every bracket, carefully put a small tapered headed screw into each of those holes. Entered in from inside the runner, then use a nut to secure it from inside the main cavity. I will use a hexhead countersunk screw so I can hold it with an Allen wrench down the opening in the runner while I’m tightening the nut.

Before I tighten everything I’m going to run gasket sealant along the 10 openings. Then I’ll tighten everything.

This will smoothly complete the flow path in the runner itself. Thus giving torque all the time. Does anyone know at that RPM the flaps open normally? I’m guessing maybe 4500-5000 RPM. I doubt I go over that RPM ever even in Sport mode.

Thoughts, comments.,concern, scorn, laughter, e-thug slapping…

Let me know what you guys think.

Russell

#2

Oh yeah sorry.

2007 Audi S6 5.2L V10 with 78,000 miles.

#3

Found the cross over point
4,000 RPM

The engine also incorporates a variable runner intake manifold. Electronically controlled flaps disrupt the airflow at low engine speeds, thus ensuring the flow is turbulent. This increases volumetric efficiency as it sends more air to the combustion chamber. The intake manifold also has multiple stages. An electronically controlled valve switches the intake paths from a longer (26.6 in) to a shorter path (12.1 in). This switchover is dependent on engine speed and load, but is typically somewhere around 4,000 rpm. The longer intake path is intended to emphasis the engine’s torque, while the shorter path is used reach maximum power output.

#4

I thought I already responded to this.

The intakes on the v10 cars seem to brake on almost all of them. The idea your mentioning sounds sound in princable but I would say be careful. There was a guy who attempted to do something similar with the V8 intake manifold but his fiberglass flap snapped then his bolts came loose and took out the motor.

The idea of locking down the flaps sucks because you loose all that top end. But your point is so right about 99% of your driving is in the lower rpm.

I think the idea you have seems great but like a lot of work. Why not just put back in all the old hardware even with the broken dasychain and just epoxy the old flaps shut in the one position. You dont have to waste money on material and your locking the flaps shut with epoxy. At that point you have a smoother flow and you shouldnt have to add any hardware that can break off.

Almost anything is better then having a mix and match air issue with different runners not all working together. So either way its a win.