Is the JHM intake fix ready now? I’m still driving without flaps at all, waiting for a solid solution. I might have to go back and find those old flaps to try the epoxy trick if something doesn’t happen soon.
Plus one, also Cv is the design itself flawed with opportunity to increase efficiency or power? Or is design good but longetivity is flawed?
Thanks for this post, basically becomes another maintenance check on these cars. Might make sense to create a new service manual of sorts to check on annually or every 18 months?
Let’s start getting to the good parts. The performance parts.
One of the best single parts you can put on the V10 motors. Is the JHM intake spacers. We all know the V10 heat is such a big deal. That heat is the single cause for numerous issues from pre-aging gaskets and other parts to robbing power and the overall drawbacks of just having too much heat.
The JHM spacers are a simple but well-proven part. These have been around and used not just by JHM but by actual race teams to do the same task. The spacers have been used for years in the Audi market to help drastically reduce heat and help return performance.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/372195110.jpg
If you’re talking about performance or just general ownership. The spacers really are a must when you pull the intake to do a carbon clean.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/744921058.jpg
There are several things I like about the spacers. An additional thing I like on top of all the performance and other gains is that the JHM spacers actually work. They help seal the intake manifold from what I have seen. So, in my opinion, I see a better seal from the intake manifold to the heads as the JHM spacers make a nice fit and seal really well. This cuts down on the dreaded V10 misfire from intake leaks.
The only real note is to make sure to remove some of the motor pull assembly brackets when you install AND DO NOT REINSTALL THEM. If you try to reinstall the motor brackets you will get interference with the motor arm once the spacers are installed.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/938121494.jpg
Nice Cv, this is great overview of what it really does and the countless benes
thoughts on the above re maint item or new design on carbon clean ?
That was a great review. Great information that will really help. I did a review on the spacers for the 4.2 V8 and the 4.2 V8 runs cooler then the 5.2 V10
Here is the testing for the 4.2
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2721.0
Keep in mind this was on a cooler day. Ive seen a biggger gain on hotter days of intake temps of 70deg difference. A very good mod
I thought now would be a good time to give a quick how-to on getting the intake manifold off. This can be used to get to a carbon clean or better yet the install of the JHM intake spacers.
Paul F started a How - to C6 S6 and basically S8 intake manifold Removal how to. Since paul sold his S6 to get an RS6 I thought I’d take what he started and add to it for this section of my thread with some expansions.
Below is a combination of Paul F and myself on how to do the following. Paul’s original thread can be found here
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3221.0
First - here are the tools you will need:
3/8 or 1/2" drive ratcheting wrench
1/4" drive ratcheting wrench
1/4" Drive Torx T30 (picture later)
Long bit Torx T30 (I used 1/4" drive - picture later)
Short (normal) bit Torx T30 (I used 3/8" drive)
M8 Triple Square/12 Point
M10 Triple Square/12 Point
10mm Wrench/Spanner (stubby is better)
14mm Wrench/Spanner
17mm Wrench/Spanner
Needle Nose Pliers
Flat Screwdriver
Precision (tiny) flat screw driver (for clips)
Extendable magnet
Before you start - repeat the following 10 times: “I will not drop any screws.” I haven’t (yet), but it’s not like an old Nissan - every screw is important!
Another thing to note is that a lot of these screws are aluminium, so be sure your bit is well seated, that there’s no debris in the screw head, and use lubricant before excessive force. If you do strip one, you can hammer the next size Torx into the hole and the material is soft enough to allow a new imprint to be made.
Give yourself about 2 hours.
Step 1 - Take off engine covers. One at the front, one at the back. Remove intake pipes between the manifold and air filters.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/842997973.jpg
The passenger side air intake is a little more tricky to take off and will require some time. There are two PCV attachments to the inlet pipe that are on the back side and they’re very hard to get to.
Here is the picture of the motor with the covers off. We’ll be looking at the passenger side. Egnore the yellow square box. That was in the picture for something else. Just take note of the passenger side inlet pipe comming from the air box to the throttle body.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/59604440.jpg
When you look down the back side of the intake pipe you will see two PCV lines attached to the inlet. Take care pulling these off. They are prone to break and are usually brittle.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/79215949.jpg
Quick Tip: If you pull these off when the motor is hot the intake will be a little softer and that helps the fittings come off a little bit easier.
Once off this is what it looks like.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/354041629.jpg
Note the connections location on the intake tube after you remove them. Also, the lines are not very long at all so, you don’t have a lot of room to pull on them.
Quick Tip: keep careful note of the coolant Y located right in the path of where you’re working. Remove that from the expansion tank and move out of the way. If the car is still warm be careful of coolant pressure.
Step 2 - Unclip the wiring harness on the left side. Unclip the two clips circled in red. You don’t need to remove the ground wire circled in green. The two arrows point to clips attached to the fuel lines. Gently pull these off. Lift the wiring harness over the fuel pump to the left side and leave there.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/294443031.jpg
Step 3 - Do the same on the other side. There are no fuel line clips on the right side.
Step 4 - Remove the PCV vent hose from the left-hand side (squeeze and pull). You need to remove it from the valve cover and from the oil separator. Move the hose out of the way. You can leave the right side connected. Put a rag or something to block debris from going into the opening in the valve cover.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/880719920.jpg
Step 5 - Remove the valve/hose. Squeeze the clamp with the pliers and pull the hose up.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/76174001.jpg
Step 6 - Remove the ‘air distribution housing.’ There are 8 Torx T30 bolts holding it to the manifold. You will also need to remove the bracket connecting the oil separator to the right-hand side throttle body. Remove the two M8 12-pt bolts on the throttle body and the Torx T30 on the oil separator.The housing should now lift away. It may be a good idea to replace the bolts onto the throttle body so you don’t lose them.
Quick Tip: most people don’t like to put back the oil separator mount to the throttle body. That is fine as it makes for easier service. Just remember to put the bolts back into the throttle body as listed above.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/558325984.jpg
Step 7 - Remove the oil separator. There’s very little clearance between the firewall and the oil separator, so this is where you will need your 1/4" ratchet and 1/4" drive Torx T30. Remove the bolts (be careful not to drop the bottom one), and pull/push the oil separator towards the firewall to remove it.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/715313875.jpg
Step 8 - Fuel lines. The factory service manual says to remove the fuel lines and the fuel pumps, but I found this wasn’t necessary. Nonetheless, you must remove one line and loosen the others in order to free the manifold. We’ll do this step now so you can let the fuel drain out while you do the rest. I was expecting these lines to be under high pressure, but they weren’t. Put a rag around the connection as you loosen it in order to soak the fuel. When you do the rear connection, be aware that more fuel will come from here than from the pump connection
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/40925352.jpg
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/438001649.jpg
Now loosen the two lines on the left-hand side, at the pump only.
Step 9- Now move to the front of the intake manifold. Remove this little hose and move out of the way.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/516554899.jpg
Step 10- Remove the module at the front left of the manifold. sort of a vac sensor - It controls the air box flaps and ties into the SAI system. Unplug the connector, the two hoses, and then remove the bracket it is attached to. One 10mm bolt and one Torx T30 hidden underneath. To remove the 10mm nut, use the stubby wrench, rather than a socket. Using a socket will cause you to foul the hose barb sticking off towards the right, and you don’t want to break it.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/451343568.jpg
10b - remove the engine lifting brackets. Otherwise, this will foul the manifold when you try to remove and cause issues once the intake spacers are installed. The engine lifting brackets are to be fully removed and not put back in. 2x Triple square/12pt M10
“You will also want to remove wiring harness bracket from the studs on the driver side head. You can secure the wires with a zip tie so they stay out of the way of the flap arms. This is because the brackets can interfere with your flap arms and give you the
following codes:
008196 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1
P2004 - 002 - Stuck Open - MIL ON
008197 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 2
P2005 - 002 - Stuck Open - MIL ON”
.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/938121494.jpg
Step 11. You’re going to need to remove the intake manifold bolts. You’ll need a longer neck tool for this as there is little room to get to most of the bolts. It’s also a good idea to make sure you have a magnet to help pull out the bolts once you’ve loosened them. There are 6 bolts on each side of the intake. This picture shows you their location and also the next step. That’s removal of the passenger side HPFP.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/853273554.jpg
Loosen all the bolts and remove them with your extendable magnet. It will be hard to get to some with your fingers, and you may need a friend to wiggle the manifold and fuel lines to help you free a couple of them. Be careful when removing the rear screws - DO NOT DROP THEM. The rear left one has the highest danger of dropping into never-never land.
Once you have the 12 bolts removed from the intake, you’ve removed the fuel lines and HPFP out of the way the intake manifold will be able to move but will still be unable to come out.
You’ll need to unplug all the sensors and plugs on the front of the intake. Due to the reduce ability to see these plugs with the front end of the car on and overall the reduced space to even unplug these plugs, I have a picture of what the intake and the plugs look like from the front of the car with the front end off.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/987256986.jpg
Quick Tip: I put the bracket bolt location in this picture to help suggest removal of these bolts. This will help in getting these sensors off the intake.
Once you’ve removed all the bolts, the brackets, plugs, fuel lines and passenger side HPFP you’ll be ready to pull out the intake manifold. The best method is to slightly pull the intake manifold forward rotate the intake clockwise as you pull up and out the intake. With the passenger side HPFP off, you’ll use that side to pull the intake to when you pull it out.
When you’re done you’ll be left with it looking like this.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/892541809.jpg
Quick Tip: take notes of the cap off points for the fuel and for the HPFP location. Lots of people run into issues when they put the cars back together. They get debris in the fuel lines and that can take out an injector. Capping off the fuel lines is a good practice.
As I mentioned above. The JHM intake spacers made a huge impact on lowering the overall underhood temps along with giving better cooler intake temps.
Some of the exciting things I’ve done are
The JHM intake spacers - check we talked about those a few posts above.
Carbon clean - talked about that - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4000.0
Up-date plugs and coil packs. - Did that earlier in the thread.
Compression test - Did this earlier in the thread.
Cylinder inspection - Did this earlier in the thread
Intake manifold inspection - Did this earlier in the thread
Coming soon…
The JHM Lightweight crank pulley - almost 9lbs of weight savings.
The JHM Lightweight brake rotors front and back - weight savings you wouldn’t believe
JHM beta ECU and TCU tune.
Full custom 3" exhaust
SAI removal - coming soon with the crank pulley
Fuel filter - part of the oil change and fluid assessment.
Oil change and fluid assessment.
After all, that I show the tract tested results from all the above work.
Looking fwd to it count. When you say full exhaust I presume you mean catback and not header back correct 
Shaping up to be a fun little project, hopefully he mods produce results on the track! I am confident they will though!
Since so many of us are opening their IM and reporting broken intake flaps (even with the updated part number) has anyone tried to convince Audi to make just the intake flap a replacement part instead of the entire IM? I would prefer that to hold me over until JHM comes out with an upgrade. (besides, I can’t seem to find the old flaps to do the epoxy mod)
It seems this is least Audi can do after leaving us with this whole carbon clean mess.
To be honest one would think if we got a consolidated document with the amount of broken IM and IM flappers with research and all signed and provided our invoice that Audi should warranty the part ever time installed for more than 12 months. This is similar to the driveshaft bushing that goes on just above every cayenne s and up trim levels. Porsche sells the entire driveshaft instead of the bushing only…so I paid 400 to upgrade from rubber to a very strong material which has been bullet proof for 400 dollars vs 1000+ for a new driveshaft and shitty rubber bushing. I think there was a a successful class action or at least traction on the cayenne issue driven by a few owners, I’m sure you could do the same here.
Remember there are probably only 4-7k of these cars left in NA inclusive of s6 and s8 so not sure how much attention Audi will give us. Now if you include world wide sales and convince those owners (should be easy minus language barriers) to participate you may be able to get somewhere 
Your best bet is send a bunch of broken IM to JHM and see if they might be able to accelerate heir upgraded if that’s even on the table. Problem is the part works and does its job reasonably well. it just has too many points of failure and not durable enough. It becomes one of those things you check like carbon clean every year and a half or year if your anal like me
Yes, only catback. I really am fighting doing headers. I know it would wake the car up completely, but if I don’t go step by step we will never really know what mods do what. These few parts really wake the car up and the JHM tune is going to be the game changer that ties it all in.
I think Audi has moved on from the S6 and S8 motors enough were they wouldn’t even be able to help. At this point our best choice is going to be the aftermarket option.
Now back to the performance parts of the build. Last time we talked about the JHM intake spacers and their ability to help keep the 5.2 V10 heat issues in check. While the spacers are helpful at keeping the motor cooler and more efficient the motor could also benefit from shedding some of that unnecessary weight strapped to the front end of the crankshaft.
Installing LW parts onto the rotational assembly of the motor for performance gains are not new. This has been around since people have been hot rodding cars. Things like underdrive pulleys and lightweight pulleys have been a big part of the performance must do’s. We all know the huge gains seen with adding an LW flywheel if you have a manual car. We have a huge TQ converter strapped to the back of our motors filled with several quarts of transmission fluid and since we obviously can’t remove that we now look to the front of the motor and the crank pulley.
Why would you want to remove and replace your crank pulley? Simple, if you want to see the science behind this go cut a piece of string just over 2 feet long. Then from there tie a 10lb weight to the end of that same string and see if you can swing that 10lb weight in front of you like a propeller of an airplane. If you even can swing it, try to keep it going at a constant speed, then after a few seconds try to swing it as fast as you can. It will take a large amount of effort to get the speed of the weight to accelerate. After you did this replace the 10lb weight with a 2lb weight and repeat. The results will be drastically different. You’ll be able to speed up and control the 2lb weight and its spinning speed much easier and with more acceleration on demand.
That’s the crappy roadside simplistic explanation. The physics behind rotational weight reduction are sound and impactful. The JHM LW crank pulley allows the motor to spin up faster and with less work. It allows for much less resistance in rotational acceleration of the motor RPM. This results in a much more eager throttle response out of the motors acceleration and its simple.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/125978846.jpg
You’re dropping almost 9lbs off the front of the crankshaft.
So, for those of you who don’t know where this is or what it looks like. Let me show you.
Here are all the important things I reference where they’re located and what they look like.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/522405473.jpg
You’re going to have to pull the front end of the car off to replace your crank pulley. While I was in there I decided to remove the SAI system. SAI stands for Secondary Air System. It’s the system that turns on in cold weather to help your cats heat up quicker. The downside is the car tends to run rougher on cold starts when it’s activated and over time people have seen terrible carbon build up in the SAI valves. So, for me, I just removed it. Keep in mind unless you have a JHM tune doing this would result in a CEL the first time the SAI system is required to turn on.
Back to the pulley install. For me, the JHM LW crank pulley was a no brainer. It’s like doing the intake spacers when you do the carbon clean. You’re going to be in there anyway, you might as well put in the spacers while you’re there.
I was replacing my OEM belt that looked to be original and also looking to service my belt tensioner. The belt tensioners like to freeze up over time so, I would pull off the belt, take off the tensioner and lube it. While I was in there I added the LW crank pulley.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/137177550.jpg
The stock crank pulley is definitely heavy. Even if you don’t have to replace the belt it might not be a bad idea on replacing the crank pulley. The B6 and B7 S4’s had issues with these failing and the B8 S4s are known to have their crank pulleys fail.
As mentioned, while I was doing the maintenance I decided to remove my SAI system.
Here is a picture of all the other hardware removed. You can clearly see what lines are the SAI lines. They tap into the front of the cylinder heads.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/280039249.jpg
You can’t just pull the SAI lines off and not cap them. Or you’ll have exaust gas coming out the front of your cylinder heads. So, I quickly cut and welded the ends off the SAI lines.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/260811121.jpg
If anyone wants more pictures on the SAI removal let me know. I removed the pump and the valves that were located off to the side.
After the SAI lines were off and I made the caps I started putting everything back on again. Making sure to use Locktite on the crank bolts and using a nice white lithium lube on the belt tensioner.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/60208689.jpg
The crank pulleys on the 4.2 S4 and S5 are just like our crank pulley on the 5.2. They are counter weighted and that’s something serious. The money in the pulleys is in the balancing of the pulleys to make sure they have the right counter weight.
Years and years ago when this came out for the 4.2 S4 a few people would try to make the argument that putting an LW pulley on would cause issues. Well, there been no issues with the 4.2 S4 or S5 after 10 years and after several motor teardowns for built motors in the 4.2 there was no sign of any bearing issues. As a matter of fact there seemed to be less bearing wear on cars with LW crank pulleys over OEM units.
For fun, I did a crude test to show there was no change in NVH. I did the oldschool water on the intake test.
1800rpm
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/993579728.jpg
3200rpm
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/144367236.jpg
from 3200 back to idle.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/393403474.jpg
There are huge offset weight tolerances in the OEM pulleys where the JHM units are balanced with precision balancing. I actually noticed a smoother idle and lower knock voltages when crusing with the JHM LW pulley.
Very insightful, thanks cv. Keep it coming! Haven’t seen a good crank pulley explanation like that in awhile.
Great post. I like the picture heavy content. That was a good explination on rotational weight. The crank pulley is a nice add on to help the motor.
So what your saying is that I need that crank pulley for my S5!?
I was concerned that reducing the weight by so much is going to displace that force elsewhere…on some other rotating / moving part up or down the line. But what CV is saying that it is safe and in fact even better. Therefore that force/energy must being going to the wheels ;D!
You need a crank pulley for your S5. The stock crank pulley has a rubber diaphram inside that is there for hryomonic ballence. But due to the fact that the rubber diaphram is usually destryed on older crank pulleys people are not getting any use out of itanyways. That and in the V10 cars they have a huge fluid dampener on the car in the Tq converter so its kinda redundent. As for the S5 you have that huge flywheel that would absorb most of the vibration. The JHM crank pulleys are perfictly ballanced so you get no vibration from ballance issues.
Really? Going to IM you a few questions so that this thread does not get derailed. Thanks!
Great writeup! Bookmarked to read soon!
Fantastic addition to the site!
Where would the v10 S6/S8 community be without posts like this???