Great info here! Looking forward to updates!
Thanks, guys 
I always appreciate the comments.
Next in line after the carbon clean and tune up was to inspect the intake manifold. It’s been well documented that this is a big issue on the V10 cars.
After pulling my intake apart it became quickly obvious something was wrong.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/508725129.jpg
With a clearly broken intake, you can expect reduced performance.
Looks about the same when mine went bad and we replaced at the dealer. The question is At what point are these repairable vs just replacing with a whole new unit . I have a feeling this design could be optimized and made much more durable but I don’t know much ;D
Right now JHM is working to fix the issue. It’s really not a money making project, as the design is going to have to be very complex and it will take a good amount of work to sort it out.
I don’t know if everyone knows exactly how the intake works and why the broken shaft can have a big impact on power. So let me show you more. Here is what the flaps look like when they are closed.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/921817740.jpg
As you can see all the flaps are closed and seal off their respected port. This causes the air to be diverted into the other section of the intake runner. One of the suggestions is to just epoxy the intake flaps into this position and to epoxy the flap anchors and supports. After that just remove the link to the motor so the flap motor won’t do anything. You won’t get a code as there is no sensor there.
If you lock the flaps closed you remove the second stage of the intake. So, the overall power band will be affected but its better than having a broken section.
Here is what happens when you have the broken section and how the flaps react.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/971066268.jpg
As you can see by this picture you have 8 of the runners open but 2 shut. So those two cylinders are on a different stage of the intake than the other 8. That causes uneven air flow to the cylinders and a drop in power.
These flaps are the internal flaps. They control the stages of the intake to put the car on the long runner that is good for low-end TQ and the short runner that is used for the upper RPM air flow.
There is another set of flaps that also get carbon on them and can cause issues but those are on the ends of the runners found when you look at the underside of the intake.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/433081140.jpg
I had two options. Epoxy the runners shut or order a new intake manifold. I knew no matter what, I was going to put in the JHM intake spacers. They do too much good to not put them in. So, knowing that I figured I’d get a new intake while I was at it. I was quoted around $2,000 plus shipping everywhere I looked. Thankfully JHM was able to get me one directly from Audi for less than that.
But when the intake manifold came from Audi I found a few things that didn’t sit too well with me. I’ll post about them in my next post.
Yes I remember when one of my flappers Broke, dealership did not try anything they just through in a new intake manifold which j was happy about. That plus new injector, carbon clean, plugs, msds filters and she broke dry pavement in the summer 
and tripped on the traction control. Funny how that works, would you say the design is flawed from the factory or does this become a maint item that if you keep the design stick and don’t change anything it’s a maint item every 25- 30k while you do the carbon clean ? That would be a little excessive but assuming people are like me and want tip top running condition.
I assume the other alternative is to modify and or enhance which may help or hurt some of he design around low end or high end power but ensure some longer life of this setup, with out replacing so frequently? Also any idea how these pieces break is it from not wringing the car out and opening them up enough weather, or other?
Like where this is going. Keep it up! Thanks for the lightweight crank recommendation. Any thoughts on the sai removal? Was it worth it? Only opened up some space in the engine bay, correct? What did you end up doing with your custom exhaust?
Just to back up the crank pulley. The V10 crank pulley is much heaver then the 4.2 and on the 4.2 V8 the crank pulley really helps the car rev up nicer. Not only that but you see a lot of issues with oem crank pulleys. This is a good thing to replace and it gives performance.
The spacers and crank pulley are a great combination. I’ll get to both of those soon. I did remove my SAI. I"m happy I did. For now removing it just helped take care of a few unneeded vac lines and some bulky hardware. With the JHM tune the SAI function is turned off so no harsh cold starts with crazy miss fires.
After my last post, I left off where my OEM intake was in need of repair or replacement. Since the JHM intake fix wasn’t ready at the time I paid the money and got a new one.
As some of you might know Audi came up with a new intake design to address the issues with the early intake manifold issues.
The only problem was
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/645748978.jpg
My intake already was the new updated part number. Little good that did, the new updated intake manifolds clearly didn’t fix the issue. Again I found something odd. The build date on my intake manifold was well before my actual car was built.
As if that little find wasn’t great the next thing I found was equally just as bad.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/545647093.jpg
As you can see this intake was made about 6 months before I bought it. It came directly from Audi but as you can see it’s not actually new. As you can see from the marks and grime on the intake, this intake manifold is a repaired intake manifold. Still same part number as my original one but clearly not new.
This to me is a little frustrating. Here is why. You don’t really know your intake is messed up unless you pull it apart and after you do that it takes a good amount of work to put it back together. Since there are no actual sensors on the intake flaps you don’t know if one or more are broken. So, at this point, everyone could have a broken intake and unless you pulled it off and checked you wouldn’t know. As if that’s not bad enough the fixed or repaired intakes from Audi don’t appear to have anything different so, there is a very good chance that this intake will suffer the same fate as my other intake.
I do plan on taking apart this intake at the end of every season to check and see if it’s still holding up. So, that will at least be helpful and I’ll see if there is anything different on the inside of the intake vs my original one. I would have to say I don’t think there is going to be anything different. If Audi changes something they change the part number to reflect it.
oh well. Sucks about the intake but It’s not like that is going to stop me.
The next parts are the JHM intake spacers and the JHM crank pulley along with my SAI removal
Is the JHM intake fix ready now? I’m still driving without flaps at all, waiting for a solid solution. I might have to go back and find those old flaps to try the epoxy trick if something doesn’t happen soon.
Plus one, also Cv is the design itself flawed with opportunity to increase efficiency or power? Or is design good but longetivity is flawed?
Thanks for this post, basically becomes another maintenance check on these cars. Might make sense to create a new service manual of sorts to check on annually or every 18 months?
Let’s start getting to the good parts. The performance parts.
One of the best single parts you can put on the V10 motors. Is the JHM intake spacers. We all know the V10 heat is such a big deal. That heat is the single cause for numerous issues from pre-aging gaskets and other parts to robbing power and the overall drawbacks of just having too much heat.
The JHM spacers are a simple but well-proven part. These have been around and used not just by JHM but by actual race teams to do the same task. The spacers have been used for years in the Audi market to help drastically reduce heat and help return performance.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/372195110.jpg
If you’re talking about performance or just general ownership. The spacers really are a must when you pull the intake to do a carbon clean.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/744921058.jpg
There are several things I like about the spacers. An additional thing I like on top of all the performance and other gains is that the JHM spacers actually work. They help seal the intake manifold from what I have seen. So, in my opinion, I see a better seal from the intake manifold to the heads as the JHM spacers make a nice fit and seal really well. This cuts down on the dreaded V10 misfire from intake leaks.
The only real note is to make sure to remove some of the motor pull assembly brackets when you install AND DO NOT REINSTALL THEM. If you try to reinstall the motor brackets you will get interference with the motor arm once the spacers are installed.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/938121494.jpg
Nice Cv, this is great overview of what it really does and the countless benes
thoughts on the above re maint item or new design on carbon clean ?
That was a great review. Great information that will really help. I did a review on the spacers for the 4.2 V8 and the 4.2 V8 runs cooler then the 5.2 V10
Here is the testing for the 4.2
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2721.0
Keep in mind this was on a cooler day. Ive seen a biggger gain on hotter days of intake temps of 70deg difference. A very good mod
I thought now would be a good time to give a quick how-to on getting the intake manifold off. This can be used to get to a carbon clean or better yet the install of the JHM intake spacers.
Paul F started a How - to C6 S6 and basically S8 intake manifold Removal how to. Since paul sold his S6 to get an RS6 I thought I’d take what he started and add to it for this section of my thread with some expansions.
Below is a combination of Paul F and myself on how to do the following. Paul’s original thread can be found here
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3221.0
First - here are the tools you will need:
3/8 or 1/2" drive ratcheting wrench
1/4" drive ratcheting wrench
1/4" Drive Torx T30 (picture later)
Long bit Torx T30 (I used 1/4" drive - picture later)
Short (normal) bit Torx T30 (I used 3/8" drive)
M8 Triple Square/12 Point
M10 Triple Square/12 Point
10mm Wrench/Spanner (stubby is better)
14mm Wrench/Spanner
17mm Wrench/Spanner
Needle Nose Pliers
Flat Screwdriver
Precision (tiny) flat screw driver (for clips)
Extendable magnet
Before you start - repeat the following 10 times: “I will not drop any screws.” I haven’t (yet), but it’s not like an old Nissan - every screw is important!
Another thing to note is that a lot of these screws are aluminium, so be sure your bit is well seated, that there’s no debris in the screw head, and use lubricant before excessive force. If you do strip one, you can hammer the next size Torx into the hole and the material is soft enough to allow a new imprint to be made.
Give yourself about 2 hours.
Step 1 - Take off engine covers. One at the front, one at the back. Remove intake pipes between the manifold and air filters.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/842997973.jpg
The passenger side air intake is a little more tricky to take off and will require some time. There are two PCV attachments to the inlet pipe that are on the back side and they’re very hard to get to.
Here is the picture of the motor with the covers off. We’ll be looking at the passenger side. Egnore the yellow square box. That was in the picture for something else. Just take note of the passenger side inlet pipe comming from the air box to the throttle body.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/59604440.jpg
When you look down the back side of the intake pipe you will see two PCV lines attached to the inlet. Take care pulling these off. They are prone to break and are usually brittle.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/79215949.jpg
Quick Tip: If you pull these off when the motor is hot the intake will be a little softer and that helps the fittings come off a little bit easier.
Once off this is what it looks like.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/354041629.jpg
Note the connections location on the intake tube after you remove them. Also, the lines are not very long at all so, you don’t have a lot of room to pull on them.
Quick Tip: keep careful note of the coolant Y located right in the path of where you’re working. Remove that from the expansion tank and move out of the way. If the car is still warm be careful of coolant pressure.
Step 2 - Unclip the wiring harness on the left side. Unclip the two clips circled in red. You don’t need to remove the ground wire circled in green. The two arrows point to clips attached to the fuel lines. Gently pull these off. Lift the wiring harness over the fuel pump to the left side and leave there.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/294443031.jpg
Step 3 - Do the same on the other side. There are no fuel line clips on the right side.
Step 4 - Remove the PCV vent hose from the left-hand side (squeeze and pull). You need to remove it from the valve cover and from the oil separator. Move the hose out of the way. You can leave the right side connected. Put a rag or something to block debris from going into the opening in the valve cover.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/880719920.jpg
Step 5 - Remove the valve/hose. Squeeze the clamp with the pliers and pull the hose up.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/76174001.jpg
Step 6 - Remove the ‘air distribution housing.’ There are 8 Torx T30 bolts holding it to the manifold. You will also need to remove the bracket connecting the oil separator to the right-hand side throttle body. Remove the two M8 12-pt bolts on the throttle body and the Torx T30 on the oil separator.The housing should now lift away. It may be a good idea to replace the bolts onto the throttle body so you don’t lose them.
Quick Tip: most people don’t like to put back the oil separator mount to the throttle body. That is fine as it makes for easier service. Just remember to put the bolts back into the throttle body as listed above.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/558325984.jpg
Step 7 - Remove the oil separator. There’s very little clearance between the firewall and the oil separator, so this is where you will need your 1/4" ratchet and 1/4" drive Torx T30. Remove the bolts (be careful not to drop the bottom one), and pull/push the oil separator towards the firewall to remove it.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/715313875.jpg
Step 8 - Fuel lines. The factory service manual says to remove the fuel lines and the fuel pumps, but I found this wasn’t necessary. Nonetheless, you must remove one line and loosen the others in order to free the manifold. We’ll do this step now so you can let the fuel drain out while you do the rest. I was expecting these lines to be under high pressure, but they weren’t. Put a rag around the connection as you loosen it in order to soak the fuel. When you do the rear connection, be aware that more fuel will come from here than from the pump connection
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/40925352.jpg
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/438001649.jpg
Now loosen the two lines on the left-hand side, at the pump only.
Step 9- Now move to the front of the intake manifold. Remove this little hose and move out of the way.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/516554899.jpg
Step 10- Remove the module at the front left of the manifold. sort of a vac sensor - It controls the air box flaps and ties into the SAI system. Unplug the connector, the two hoses, and then remove the bracket it is attached to. One 10mm bolt and one Torx T30 hidden underneath. To remove the 10mm nut, use the stubby wrench, rather than a socket. Using a socket will cause you to foul the hose barb sticking off towards the right, and you don’t want to break it.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/451343568.jpg
10b - remove the engine lifting brackets. Otherwise, this will foul the manifold when you try to remove and cause issues once the intake spacers are installed. The engine lifting brackets are to be fully removed and not put back in. 2x Triple square/12pt M10
“You will also want to remove wiring harness bracket from the studs on the driver side head. You can secure the wires with a zip tie so they stay out of the way of the flap arms. This is because the brackets can interfere with your flap arms and give you the
following codes:
008196 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1
P2004 - 002 - Stuck Open - MIL ON
008197 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 2
P2005 - 002 - Stuck Open - MIL ON”
.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/938121494.jpg
Step 11. You’re going to need to remove the intake manifold bolts. You’ll need a longer neck tool for this as there is little room to get to most of the bolts. It’s also a good idea to make sure you have a magnet to help pull out the bolts once you’ve loosened them. There are 6 bolts on each side of the intake. This picture shows you their location and also the next step. That’s removal of the passenger side HPFP.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/853273554.jpg
Loosen all the bolts and remove them with your extendable magnet. It will be hard to get to some with your fingers, and you may need a friend to wiggle the manifold and fuel lines to help you free a couple of them. Be careful when removing the rear screws - DO NOT DROP THEM. The rear left one has the highest danger of dropping into never-never land.
Once you have the 12 bolts removed from the intake, you’ve removed the fuel lines and HPFP out of the way the intake manifold will be able to move but will still be unable to come out.
You’ll need to unplug all the sensors and plugs on the front of the intake. Due to the reduce ability to see these plugs with the front end of the car on and overall the reduced space to even unplug these plugs, I have a picture of what the intake and the plugs look like from the front of the car with the front end off.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/987256986.jpg
Quick Tip: I put the bracket bolt location in this picture to help suggest removal of these bolts. This will help in getting these sensors off the intake.
Once you’ve removed all the bolts, the brackets, plugs, fuel lines and passenger side HPFP you’ll be ready to pull out the intake manifold. The best method is to slightly pull the intake manifold forward rotate the intake clockwise as you pull up and out the intake. With the passenger side HPFP off, you’ll use that side to pull the intake to when you pull it out.
When you’re done you’ll be left with it looking like this.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/892541809.jpg
Quick Tip: take notes of the cap off points for the fuel and for the HPFP location. Lots of people run into issues when they put the cars back together. They get debris in the fuel lines and that can take out an injector. Capping off the fuel lines is a good practice.
As I mentioned above. The JHM intake spacers made a huge impact on lowering the overall underhood temps along with giving better cooler intake temps.
Some of the exciting things I’ve done are
The JHM intake spacers - check we talked about those a few posts above.
Carbon clean - talked about that - http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4000.0
Up-date plugs and coil packs. - Did that earlier in the thread.
Compression test - Did this earlier in the thread.
Cylinder inspection - Did this earlier in the thread
Intake manifold inspection - Did this earlier in the thread
Coming soon…
The JHM Lightweight crank pulley - almost 9lbs of weight savings.
The JHM Lightweight brake rotors front and back - weight savings you wouldn’t believe
JHM beta ECU and TCU tune.
Full custom 3" exhaust
SAI removal - coming soon with the crank pulley
Fuel filter - part of the oil change and fluid assessment.
Oil change and fluid assessment.
After all, that I show the tract tested results from all the above work.
Looking fwd to it count. When you say full exhaust I presume you mean catback and not header back correct
Shaping up to be a fun little project, hopefully he mods produce results on the track! I am confident they will though!
Since so many of us are opening their IM and reporting broken intake flaps (even with the updated part number) has anyone tried to convince Audi to make just the intake flap a replacement part instead of the entire IM? I would prefer that to hold me over until JHM comes out with an upgrade. (besides, I can’t seem to find the old flaps to do the epoxy mod)
It seems this is least Audi can do after leaving us with this whole carbon clean mess.