I have to get a new rack and pinion. Planning on getting one from a part out car because of price. Has anyone officially determined if the bottom bolt is accessible without pulling the motor? I believe that would be the only thing causing issues with motor in correct?
Finally got my lift installed, hoping to find the answer to this question, as the rack and pinion (steering gear) needs replaced.
Anyone else done this job on a V10 s6?
If the engine’s gotta come out, we can do, but it’s gonna be a laundry list of other things.
You can definitely get the bolts out with the engine in place
However, that does not necessarily mean you can get the rack out. You may need to drop the engine a few inches (or more) for that to be done.
When they replaced the rack on my car, engine did not need to be taken out.
When I took my engine out, I saw no freakin way to unbolt hardlines and other stuff from the rack but maybe I am missing something
Definatly a job where you want space, maybe lower is the only way
Finally got it done this weekend. But I can confirm the rack can be replaced with the motor in the car. You need an extended air ratchet to get the lower bolt successfully (Aircat 808-22). Drop the spindle away from the upper control arms and it comes out the driver side. Having a two post lift also very helpful, to get the car at just the right height to stick your arm down the hole the rack lives in.
So happy to have my car back on the road.
Any other tips?
The heater valve in the cowl is over the 18mm bolt (of the two bolts down into the rack), I removed the hoses and slid it back in its bracket. The 10mm bolt down was easy to access after pulling the cowl cover.
only took about a quart of fluid to fill the whole system.
I bought the reman from FCP Euro, it worked perfectly. I called them and talked to them, because the original one on the webpage was just too cheap. The S6 is a different (much more expensive) one.
I ended up breaking the electrical connector on the rack trying to get it released. It’s sticky from the rubber seal sticking to the plastic connector… maybe heat or penetrating oil would have helped… or bend up a pair of pliers to get just the right angle.
I spent a lot of time chasing dropped bolts and tools, probably should have used some safety wire on them to keep from loosing them in the heat sheild / Cats / Transmission.
As instructions say, leave battery disconnected while the steering sensor is swapped out.
Amazon.com: AIRCAT Pneumatic Tools 808-22: 22.5 Inch Long Reach Ratchet 160 RPM, 65 ft-lbs Maximum Torque - Tapered Metal Grip : Tools & Home Improvement
I bought and used new 12 point 10mm and 18mm sockets to ensure good bite.
Reinstalled rack bolts with blue loctite.
Leave top two bolts loose when reinstalling so a friend can slightly wiggle the rack during the reinstall of the “UP” bolt.
Great update it’s a big win to know this is possible and has been done by a few people.
How did you know you needed a new steering rack versus just having loose rack and pinion bolts? Had you already checked if they were tight?
I replaced the rack because it was spewing Pentosin out of the boots at a high rate of speed… internal rack bar seal failure. Bolts weren’t loose.
That makes sense, thank you!