I figured out the VPG was leaking so I put in a new one. I followed the torque specs and tightened every screw in order per the manual. Took the car for a drive and its still leaking, actually looks worse now. What gives? Is there something I’m missing or has anyone else experienced this issue? I’m thinking I may have just received a defective gasket, but didn’t want to order another one without asking for advice. Thanks!
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Can you post a couple pictures of what you are seeing?
How sure are you it is the valley pan? The oil filter housing has a double o-ring seal that can leak a lot and the oil runs under the IM and down the front of the motor… it can look like a valley pan gasket leak but isn’t.
This. This is commonly mistaken for the vallly gasket leaking.
If you have any pictures that would help. I really have never heard of the valley gasket leaking. They are usually not something were oil would be under enough pressure to press by the gaskets.
I’m going to take the IM off again this weekend, I’ll post up some pics. What I saw the first time I pulled and replaced the gasket was oil all around the left, right, and back of the valley pan. The oil was working its way to and flowing down the front of the engine. I didn’t notice any oil leaking from the oil filter gasket, but I’ll double check this again.
EXACTLY!!! This exact situation happened to me. Change the VPG and still leaked. Changed the o ring and viola. No more leak
Just to clarify in case you don’t know, we aren’t talking about the filter o-ring that is on the cap, but rather the filter housing double o-ring. You have to remove the entire housing that the oil filter sits in. It’s a
Great info everybody, thanks! I’ll order one and replace when I pull of the IM again.
Let us know along the way if you need help. or more information.
I had a chance to pull the IM and take a pic. This is where the oil was from when I replaced the VPG. I put new gaskets on the oil filter housing and put everything back together. Went for a drive and its still leaking!! I can see the oil in a gap down past the IM. Is there a tightening sequence that I’m missing? I used 10nm on the front 2 bolts and 25nm on the back 2.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k150/kick3pts/IMG_6818%202.jpg
The repair manual doesnt show any sequence, just 10nm torque on the bolts. The oil on top of the cover leads me to believe its not the VPG. Normally thats from bad o rings for the oil filter housing. The oil on the sides is probably coming from the oil that is puddling on the top of the cover
Your torque on the oil filter housing is correct.
Wow the pictures really start to tell the story. It was hard to visuilize what was happening. Now it looks more clear. Its hard to think that the oil would be comming from under the VPG.
maybe try this. Wipe up and dry up all the oil. then prime the motor and let the starter keep priming the oil system keep the intake off and keep the area open like you have now. When you prime the motor that will bring the oil pressure up and you should see where its comming from
Apologies for such a late response. I’ve had lots of stuff keeping me away from the car.
When you say prime the motor, do you mean turn the key to ignition on? Or actually turn the key to start and engage the starter? I still have the injectors attached to the fuel line/rail, but they are unplugged. Any issues with it still hooked up like this?
Any tips with what to plug up the open ports with the intake being removed if I do engage the starter?
Thanks!!
You can just have the oil pump run off the starter motor turning over the motor. Now don’t run the starter for ever but you can run the motor on the starter for short runs. You can take the plugs out and the coil packs off this will allow the motor to spin over free.
I wouldn’t plug the ports with anything because the motor will suck it in and you can either pull the fuel fuse or disconnect the fuel line at the rail. If you do that you would want to put the fuel line into a bottle as fuel will come out. Lastly you can unplug the ECU but if you do that the fans will kick on.
I’ll give it a try, thanks!!
So I found the source of the oil leak. I had my wife run the starter and noticed a small amount of oil coming from the oil filter housing. I thought it was just a drip from one of the exposed hoses, so I wiped it up and tried again. Sure enough it showed up in the same spot. When I got up a couple inches from it I could see the small crack in the pictures. Imagine the surprise, didn’t even know that was possible. Any idea what could have caused the crack? Thanks for all the information and tips. Justincredible, that test worked out great. Thanks again!!
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k150/kick3pts/Oil%20Filter%20Housing/IMG_7130.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k150/kick3pts/Oil%20Filter%20Housing/0769518e-5c9f-447d-afe0-7f542cfda1d8.png
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k150/kick3pts/Oil%20Filter%20Housing/IMG_7134.png
Any chance I can use some Liquid Metal Filler for the crack, or do I need to buy a new housing?
Crack is most likely from someone over-tightening it at some point, or someone/something really leaning on it when other work is performed.
My gut is that the housing is cast aluminum, which is difficult to weld repair unless you know a very good welder. If I were in your position would just try to find a used housing online; there are always a few cars being parted out. Or find a junkyard part would be much cheaper than a new one.
I wouldn’t mess with liquid metal, IMO you are just asking for more issues down the road.
Thats great im super glad to hear it worked out. There are so many great guys on AR Im just happy to be one of them that can help from time to time
It’s greatly appreciated! Thanks again to all for the help!