Congrats. Great description of the ownership experience lol. Haven’t driven my car in anger in a couple years so I’ll probably have the same experience some time this spring. Godspeed to everyone in the Audi V10 love/hate relationship.
Oil change lead to running VCDS again to check codes. This time got a cylinder 5 open circuit fault. Engine II showed multiple misfires. Happy Valentines Day lol.
Quick read boils down to:
Coil pack - I am wondering if the Bremi coils I used are the culprit
Plug - waiting on JHM V10 support to verify plug gap, I had them set to .032".
Wiring
Injector
Swapped coil pack 5 with 3, and inspected plug 5, verified gap of .032”.
I noticed coolant on the floor, and found the cause:
The coolant expansion tank hosing had a hairline crack at this reduction point. I was able to cut another 3/8” of hose to the (now brass T) Y connection before the tank. Also gets a clamp fingers crossed. This was caused by me moving the hose out of the way to slip in the oil cap. Parts on order, note the new rev BB instead of AE” on the part.
Also spotted a hairline crack in the PCV valve side connection. Taped it with electrical tape for now.
Lesson learned , if the hoses are original at this point, it’s just a ticking time bomb for plastic anything. The rubber for the hosing looks in good shape.
Need to re run VCDS tomorrow, to see what is going on with the coil packs.
Oh and I spilled 10 quarts of old oil on a 3x6 portion of my driveway.
2/15 update, the jerry rig did not work, and the coolant sprayed out in less than 5 minutes of driving. I overtightened the clamp and crushed the aluminum part. I tryed to make it round again, and see if rtv sealant and (light) clamp pressure will hold it for the time being.
The thought is to go with a 3/8" barb to 3/16 barb, and replace the plastic with 3/16 ID rubber hosing. This will be tremendously cheaper, and service its purpose (as long as the OG rubber sections of the hose holds up). I know its not OEM, but I need to be sensible.
On a side note, with the car down, I’m going to get the OEM coil packs. Shout out to FCP Euro for providing a return and return shipment tag for the Bremi. They have excellent customer service, and are knowledgeable on the platform. Yes, I acknowledge it may be my wrongdoing.
Tuesday night I got the car running and drivable. The 3/8 air hosing I used to get to work was near thermal limits, so I ran to NAPA and bought 2 feet of SAE 30r14t2 fuel line hose, rated at 257 degrees Fahrenheit. 3/8” barbs on both ends with hose clamps.
Drove the car in sport the whole way home, and didn’t leak anymore coolant, temp was spot on. The stressful drive to work was rewarded with silky smooth midrange back home.
I have an oil leak coming from the rear of the motor (or at least the rear is where the drip is hitting.
Of course i cannot see anything from the top, the thick hose in the picture accumulates the oil. Anyone have any thoughts? Please dont say engine out… 
I changed oil 2 weekends ago and noticed almost the exact same leak and was going to post it just haven’t gotten around to it. My initial thought was either the rear crankseal or the lower pan but I also can’t help wonder if it’s the rear diff either. Curious to see what others thoughts might be on this.
I take it rear crank seal is engine out, but how about lower pan? Rear diff too?
Probably rear crankshaft cover leaking. Engine out. Good luck.
I’m going to break down and have a euro specialty shop review. May be the death knell of my ownership honestly. Doing the rebuilds like some of you have is way over my skill set.
I’ll keep you all posted, staying positive it’s something dumb.
Damn best of luck I noticed I had that same oil back there way before I pulled my engine out. Maybe it was rear crank seal. I don’t even know. Hopefully it’s something else
Update on the leak(s):
The mechanic fixed 2 smaller leaks with oil cooler line o ring replacement. After fixing those he was able to isolate the main leak, which is transmission fluid from the bell housing. Engine out.
The painful decision is here, but I’m in an only deeper love spell from the S6, after driving a loaner Chrysler Pacifica with blown engine mounts and warped rotors for 3 weeks.
With the engine out:
All o2 sensors replaced
Power steering pump was found to be leaking, address that.
Fix the leak from the transmission, I’m thinking a new torque converter is needed, since I had the first gear slam since owning the car?
My mechanic doesn’t want to do any timing chain work on this motor.
@justincredible or @jludt am I missing anything obvious with the motor drop? I don’t have the funds to go super nuts, and the guy does not want to to timing components if he can help it, as he feels uncomfortable with the motor.
o2 sensors would be good to do.
No real need to do the TQ converter unless your getting a code right now.
For the most part it’s not really needed to do the timing components. It might not be bad to open up the back to just do a visual inspection but other than that.
The starter is a motor out job but they don’t tend to go out a lot.
Depending on your emmisions standards I would pull out the cats as they will start to go after a while and there is a healthy amount of performance there.
As a bit of added insurance against coolant ending up in your oil, I would pull the rear cam sprocket covers and replace the seals on the coolant bypass pipes.
This would NOT be considered “timing chain work” and your mechanic should have no problem agreeing to do it.
I was thinking TQ because i have a slight hesitation when in sport mode, from a dead stop, giving the car gas and having a momentary delay before the transmission went into gear. The car would rev as if in neutral between the time gas was given, to shifting into gear.
Good call, I added that to the list of things to replace.
So it appears to be the torque converter seal as the root cause of the leak.
A few other things are addressed while in there:
Starter
Water pump
Power steering pump
Coolant hoses
Valve cover gaskets
VVT o-rings
The seals on the coolant tube @eng92 mentioned
Intake manifold gaskets (all 4)
All fluids changed including diffs and trans
Another flex pipe failed, will be replaced
All 8 o2 sensors
Axle boot replaced front passenger
Timing chain covers resealed after inspections, no concern for any component wear or replacement needed
Oil housing seal
Passenger sway bar link (3rd once replaced).
A few idler pulley were on there way out, changed the accessory belt too.
PCV hose
It’s painful, but I hope to keep the car for another 2 years/50 k miles. I hope this covers it. I’ll do injectors again next summer, for my annual carbon cleaning/spark plug swap.
Anyone have the part number for the red fasteners used to hold the coil pack conduit to the valve cover?
I should have her back next week
Make sure the TQ converter is good before you put it back in. I’ll look and see if the pn for the S4 coil packs is the same for the S6. If so I’ll post.
Sorry for the dumb question, how do you determine its “good”?
Demoralizing Update:
Work was completed, and they did a test drive. Transmission fluid is coming out at the same rate from the bell housing as before the torque converter seal replacement. The mechanic suspects either:
-
a workmanship issue on the installation of the seal
-
new seal is defective
-
a separate seal on the transmission has failed and he misdiagnosed the issue. He mentioned that it should be better to identify since he cleaned up the bell housing before installation, as part of the installation process.
With the problems the mechanic had been reasonable, and is trying his best.
Fingers crossed again.