Revolv0’s Salvage Rescue S6

A6 All/ S6 All
#61

My guess is bearing damage, crank is forced to turn, bang.

This does suck. I have rebuilt motors before. It depends on your comfortability level with tearing down to the block. It is doable, but depending on how much damage there is to the block, you may need a new block to start.

You might be able to find a block or even an engine that needs work that might be less involved, or if you are lucky has top end damage where you could use the top of your engine.

For me, it’s a combination of:

  1. Do I have another car to drive
  2. Can I handle the repairs needed
  3. Is the cost reasonable enough (this is a complex aspect - for me personally I hate waste so my tolerance level is quite high)
  4. Is the rest of the car worth it (interior, suspension, transmission)

So tough choice…

Ed

#62

Personally with all the work you went through I would fix it and even with my car and all it’s drama if something happened like that I would pull it apart and fix it as far as I already came with everything I did on my car.

#63

I would honestly just wait and really think about it. When my car was going through it’s o2 sensor hell. I had 3 days before I started college and I really debated to myself was I really going to leave it with that one sensor making car run terrible or pull that that shit apart. I decided and I dropped the engine within 3 hours and changed it. As long as you put your mind to it and don’t give up as far as you came. You should be able to fix her on your downtime in no time at all. Yeah it will take some time but it’ll be all worth it in the long run and while your there you could change everything else and make the car pretty much a brand new engine. I don’t know that’s just me I honestly wouldn’t give up in your situation. My ambition fuels me on my car to never give up on it and you shouldn’t too with all the shit you have gone through.

#64

If you have a spare car and the funds, FIX IT. Overcoming crap like this is euphoric. Dominate that car!

…if not, I could use a few odd parts. :wink:

#65

I am not buying it. How can the crank itself be broken and the engine still start and run?

#66

Thinking about it as well I mean shouldn’t the engine not be running at all?

#67

Definitely not a common occurrence in general and certainly not one I believe I’ve personally seen on this platform either here or elsewhere on the internet. Will be curious to hear about the details on how you arrived at this diagnosis

#68

The mechanic noted grabbing the flex plate with the transmission separated and having play… then he removed the starter and spun the crank, the harmonic balancer and serpentine belt would move inconsistently. He mentioned moving the crank in the rear a bit before the front serpentine belt moves.

He said he’s never seen such a failure, and the fact that the assembly wouldn’t spin consistently from one end of the shaft to the other. He suspects the crank isn’t a clean break and may make a connection in the broken joint.

I decided not to due a full tear down due to cost.

#69

That is making more sense now as I did not realize that the engine had already been pulled from the vehicle.

I suppose if a fatigue crack was to initiate at the split connecting rod pin and propagate to failure in such a path that allowed the two fracture faces to remain loosely “keyed” together, there would be enough radial and axial constraint to keep them engaged to allow the engine to “run”.

For those that have not seen one up close, the picture below shows the split pin used in the Audi 5.2L V10

image
image1097×1063 257 KB

I pulled the image below off of one of the Lambourghini forums. It appears to have been taken out of one of the engine tech study guides where they are contrasting the designs of the Lambourghini 5.0L with the Audi 5.2L

image
image993×563 96.5 KB

1 Like
#70

Interesting stuff, sorry about the end of that engine.

Why split over single pin in the 5;2? Cost? Weight?

Ed

#71

Note that a failure at the split pin is just one possibility and must NOT be assumed to be the cause.

The split pin crank in the 5.2 is actually heavier and more expensive to manufacture due to the extra processing required. It is a cross plane design with the connecting rods for opposing banks offset by 18 degrees to give an even 72 degree ignition separation angle. This makes for a smoother running V10 engine.

The single pin crank used in the lambo engine is a flat plane design. This makes it lighter and stronger which is better suited for high revving engines (albeit not as smoothly)

1 Like
#72

Man that is really sad to hear and am sorry bud. Really sucks

Not that is is something you should do, however if I had time and resources, I would “consider” swapping in a true 5.0L or 5.2L from a wreked ex or hurrican mended to a built manual gearbox that you could rev to 8k.

Would make for one bad ass beast of an s6.

Anyway, best of luck on your car Revolv

#73

Thanks @laketahoequattro, my vacation is over and the reality is sinking in more.

What do you think a rolling chassis would go for?

What would you guys think I can get for things like:
JHM intake manifold
high pressure
Ecu’s
Head lights
Used injectors
Trans
Rebuild torque converter ( I’m still having the warranty work done on the converter to correct the seal issue VCDS mentioned
Seats with reupholstered bottoms
Brake set with Adam’s rotors and SS lines?
JHM crank pulley

What other bits should I consider?

#74

Fog lights, tail lights, exhaust tips, door blades, door cards, mmi modules, abs pump, engine heads, wiring harness, front and rear bumper, front and rear seats, front cv axles, maybe the headliner. Lots of people with non s6 C6s like s6 seats and headliner. Maybe driveshaft/ rear diff if you want to go that far.

The hood and fenders are aluminum. Someone may want those for their 3.0t C6 also.

Also wheels and replace wih some cheap rollers

Obviously the trans.

You could probably sell the engine as damaged. I may know a guy who wants it

#75

Hey Revo would you sell the entire engine wiring harness

#76

You get dibs

#77

So far in the part out cash recovery:

$750 cash for the 4 cats
$500 cash for the bottom end. An artist saw the motor hanging in the garage and wanted to make a coffee table out of it. He’s paying for the labor to disassemble the whole motor and I get the heads, bolt ons.

Hoping to start disassembly of the interior this weekend

#78

My harness is messed up and chooses when to act up and is absolute hell for me. It drives me insane

#79

Need MMI buttons if cosmetically good.
Passenger front wheel liner.
Hood liner.
Plastic bracket underneath rear bumper (bottom of rear bumper secures to it)
Any brackets and fasteners that hold the ECUs down (mine disappeared)
Engine covers if cosmetically good.
EDIT: fuel line clamps for hard lines where attached to engine block valley

Probably a few other odds and ends I can’t remember

#80

I’d be interested in the JHM intake manifold!