When I first heard the RS had brembo front brakes the first thing I thought of before the stopping power was how easy it’ll be to change the pads ;D
They were pretty grooved up but now I’m kicking myself for waiting until the light came on since it probably scored them even more.
I really like the Ferodo DS2500s I have on there. They have good initial bite which gets very good once they warm up. But I heard somewhere they wear the rotors faster than others?
I don’t run my RS4 in the winter or rain so I dunno on the centrics performance in those situations. I’ve also heard they aren’t great then. But the fact they are dearly dustless is so awesome IMO.
Keep in mind that Carbotech claims their pads are incompatible with other brands. So, if you ever swap to another mfg, you are also supposed to replace the rotors.
Based on my experience with the EBC Yellows, I would be willing to try one of their street compounds as well. They are really inexpensive compared to other options and seem to work fine. But I’ve heard good things about the Stoptechs as well.
my dealer quoted me $1700 for front pads/rotors/labour
I had them do my brakes on my B7 S4 (and I supplied the parts) and it was only 1.5 hrs for fronts. So at $110/hr, that’s about $165. That means they want $1500 or so for 2 front rotors and the 8 front pads for the RS4.
Called a friend at another dealer and the price he showed me for the rotors was $650. Pads were a couple hundred I believe. Maybe 300.
EDIT: $305 per rotor and $380 for the pad set. So about $1000+tax.
I’ve used D2500s and they had great bite but dusted just as much as stock. If that isn’t an issue for you, have at it. They are pricey though. For me, I am too crazy about keeping things clean and was willing to sacrifice a bit of brake feel rather than having loads of dust every week.
Stock pads are like $500 IIRC. So, with rotors at $500 each, that dealer figure makes sense. Not saying I agree with it, but it doesn’t sound out of line based on the MSRP for the parts.
Why not get the rotors or replacement rings from JHM? They are a lot cheaper probably even with shipping.
I have Hawk HPS up front and StopTech on the rears. Cold/wet/hot - bite is good. Initial bite even on cold mornings is fine. No sqealing or sqeaking ever. Doesn’t chew through rotors and the dust from the Hawks is fine. The amount of the dust from the StopTechs in the back is unreal though. I’m the only guy who drive a car with the rear wheels dirtier than the fronts.
I had these but ended up going with stock instead. The rings are cheaper but I didn’t like how they didn’t match the cross-drilled rear rotors (yeah, I know, but this is how it was at the time). In addition, I became concerned they wouldn’t be as suitable for track duty, which my car sees now and then. But, the primary reason I went with stock was because, cost-wise, I was able to get stock rotors for just a tad bit more than the JHM rings at the time.
Now that they have matching rear rings I would consider them, but still have some concern over their track performance.
JHM rotors are the same price as stock rotors from my Audi parts counter contact at OWASCO Audi in Oshawa Ontario (Neil Brands).
Anyway, I don’t think I need rotors yet. Just didn’t want to destroy them with the stupid metal pins on the stock pads which are wearing down.
If you don’t plan on changing them yourself then give Ivan at iGarage a call. Good honest guy.
He mainly deals with Japanese imports but brake pads are very straight forward and I’m sure labour would be much cheaper.
Just be careful pulling into that plaza. It’s basically like a food court of car shops.
I would likely just have it at the dealer as it is super close and convenient, including a shuttle etc. If I have to miss an hour of work to save $100 that doesn’t make sense.
there’s a place called AutoScan in Mississauga in a similar little foodcourt of autoshops. It’s a rotten little building and everyone has a single garage bay with two lifts crammed in there. It’s something crazy to see.
I run the stoptechs on the street and they are great. Also not sure what TypeRx was talking about as I switch to carbotechs xp12 for track and back when I leave on same rotors with no problems!
Also IMO do it yourself. I don’t work on my car at all and I did this! Changing just pads, like others said takes way shorter than it does to jack the car and take off your wheels. Also with the rotors it’s just one star head screw and the two caliper bolts!! And like I said I do not/have not done anything else on my car and I found this easy.
Also buy replacement stock rings when your ready from Genuineaudiparts.com. Will beat dealer prices any day!!
He was quoting Ferrodo I think, no?
p.s. how much are the stock rings to replace Z? I haven’t found them much cheaper than $300 anywhere.
thanks for the input
yea your right… just looked at my last reciept and it was 654.88 shipped… Rotors are 299.03 each.
Having driven on both, I can tell you the Bobcats are a million times better than the stoptechs AND create way less dust.
Not saying the Bobcats are the end all and be all (although I absolutely love them) but if I had to choose between Stoptechs and Bobcats, I’d go with Bobcats without a moment’s thought.
you have brembos up front don’t you? Or stoptechs? (BBK)
how’d you find the initial bite on the carbos?
LOL, I’ll be glad to copy and past the emails I received directly from Carbotech warning about doing exactly what you are doing. They claim potential for complete loss of braking ability. I never completely understood it but saw it also backed up from several frequent road course enthusiasts. Also, looks like their website is having problems now or something but here is a snippet from their cached FAQ. I have never seen another brake manufacturer claim this…not sure if there is something unique with their compound or not. Bottom line, worth the risk? You decide.
That doesn’t make a lot of sense. How do the pads know if the rotors are resurfaced or new or just used in good shape?
No big deal anyway
Pads don’t know in the cognitive sense but there is a thin transfer layer of pad material on the rotor. You may never develop even or an adequate transfer layer if you don’t bed your pads. Regardless, I guess some compounds may form a “permanent” transfer layer with the rotor, rendering other pads less effective.
Unlike power adders (I mean, it sucks if you blow your engine but nobody dies), brakes are not something to mess with IMO.
I need to put my street pads back on after a recent lapping day. Before doing so I’ll clean up the cross-drilled holes (they are full of pad material right now), quickly sand my rotors and pads, clean with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and re-install the centrics. Then re-bed them. 60 - 10 mph seven or 8 times and then let the brakes cool.
I need to bleed my fluid as well but will probably just wait on that until next spring. Car goes away for the winter pretty soon.
Thats interesting… i do bed every time… guess we will just have to see. Knock on wood its been fine so far.