RS4 Carbon Buildup Removal - Anyone have any tips? Best products? Good DIY?

B6/7 S4/RS4
#1

I’m thinking of getting around to this in the coming weeks, so I wanted to start this thread to get some input from the handful of RS4 guys on the site. I’d like to hear suggestions on

1. tools used for the job - this includes tools/items to use for physical removal of the buildup as well as the fluids/sprays etc. used to soak the CB overnight before removing it.
I’ve heard of GB, EasyOff, some kind of GM stuff. What has worked best for your guys?

2. tips and techniques - different things you’ve found/heard make the job easier.

3. a comprehensive DIY step by step - I haven’t seen one as of yet .

Any input would be appreciated.

#2

Good info listed here, I’m sure you’ve seen this though.

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=172.0

  1. Tools - I used the same bristle like tools in the link above. In addition I had some older pic like tools meant for trim pieces for the hard little caked on spots that the brushes wouldn’t remove. I also tied a small rope to the tip of one of the bristle brush tool to help bend the tool around the back of the valves in a sort of controlled manner. I couldn’t seem to get it to bend at the exact spot I wanted without the rope.

Obviously the sockets/wrenches needed to remove and reassemble. Sorry, I didn’t take note of each size/tool used.

Access to a manual (Bentley, ETKA, ELSA, EBAHN etc also helped.

Tips:
Seems simple but tape off your front fenders. You are constantly leaning on them during the job and you don’t want to f’ them up.

Stretch often - lol - I’m in my 30’s and am at the gym 6 days a week. My back, neck, shoulders and knees were sore as hell the next day.

Be patient - once the I/M is off and you are ready to start it took me almost 45 minutes per set of valves.

I too soaked the closed valves to help loosen stuff. I used a combo of stuff. I first sprayed carb cleaner and then I drowned them in sea foam. I may try a different solution next time.

Pay close attention to the vacuum lines when assembling. Also take special care with the I/M, those rocker arms can be fragile especially in the colder garages during the winter months.

  1. I hope someone with camera skills does one. A nice time lapse video with the pertinent steps in slow motion and text scrolling at the bottom with specifics would be key!
#3

one product i never saw mentioned to date and i always wondered about.

In the army we call it “CLP” (Clean Lubricate Protect) Its an oil based product designed to soak into and break up carbon to the point where you can simply wipe it off (for the most part)

Its what we use to clean fire arms caked up with carbon.

You could get that at any sporting goods store that carries fire arms. The bottle looks like a dark vegetable oil with white deposits on the bottom of the bottle (have to mix it good, that white stuff is what melts the carbon)

#4

interesting.

we’ll get Dan to test it on his RS4 lol

#5

Ill have to search for pictures on this. I think George can attest to this as I suggested it to him.

I use heavy-duty oven cleaner. Its clean and its purpose is for getting hard caked on carbon type deposits broken down and removable. When we were doing the carbon clean on the S5 I think some of you saw the side by side comparison. It really is the best product Ive seen and used. It reduces the carbon to a mush that can simply be wiped away. NO need for scrubbing. The cleaner is in a foam so it can be easily sprayed around corners. It sticks well to the walls and really breaks down the carbon. Not only that but if your able to do it on a warm motor it works very quickly.

Thats my .2

#6

it is legit chemical oven cleaner just be careful handling it, pH of 13-14 could do some damage

#7

to the car? (as well as your skin)

#8

great input. What’s the product called?

#9

I thought I was the only one that knew this. Most strong oven cleaners actually do the best job. Its amazing and by far the best product to use. The danger factor is up there (your skin) however NO product including some of the big carbon specific products has ever disintagrated carbon lifting it and removing it like strong oven cleaner.

http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/000/808/256/290/808649_1577256_290.jpg

has worked moany times very well for me

#10

cool

would love to see someone post a video of this per N707RS4’s comment above…and get us a good look at the carbon after hitting it with various products. We should do a carbon clean meet for S5/RS4 guys lol.

#11

I need to stop dragging ass and put that S6 carbon DIY together. Here is what I used:
Sprayed the B-12 on the day before and let it soak. Then went to town with the flathead to get the stuff off the large areas, the picks to get behind the valves, and the toothbrush+brake cleaner for the final cleanup

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x59/joec1992/DSCN2326-1.jpg

This was a big help. Shop-vac+McDonald’s straw to suck out the chunks

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x59/joec1992/DSCN2325.jpg

#12

skin was what I was getting at

#13

vapors as well… especially on a warm motor… make sure you have some sort of mask cause those fumes from easy off are quite harmful!

#14

lots of good ideas in here. Anyone got some good tool ideas like b6joe did with his McGuyver use of a McDonald’s straw?

#15

That straw is awesome! Gonna use that one for other general cleaning.

#16

CV told me to use the easy off oven cleaner and damn it works great. I used intake cleaner to clean the bigger stuff and then used the easy off to soak on the valves and get them shiny. Soak the valve for an hour and then it almost wipes off clean.

I was pretty wacked out after the clean that stuff is harsh

Thanks for telling me about your findings With the easy off CV.

#17

RE: tools.

I have a two shop vacs, one large and one small and also a mini vac meant for car cleaning etc (small attachments for those hard to reach interior spots.) Luckily, the hose attachments from the car detailing kit are the same diameter as the smaller shop vac’s so I was able to use the mini sucker thing on the shop vac. Great power and a total must. I left it on the whole time I was scraping and there was almost nothing left to clean up after. Just a quick wipe with a clean rag and second quick pass with the vac.

A gardening knee pad thingy was used too. I used it to lean on when I’m scrubbing.

I have one of those light bars you can hang across your hood over you while working, that helped me see a lot easier.

#18

I have found great success with using the oven cleaner. Letting that settle till the foam goes down hitting it again and then wipeing it clean. The Oven cleaner works faster then carb or brake cleaner. After I do a good run with the oven cleaner I hit the valves with the carb cleaner and let it sit over night. Most of everything by that time has been removed and you don’t have to do a lot of scrubbing.

I always get worried when it comes to valve stems and the heads. I don’t like using sharp tools in there if I can help it.

Joe

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x59/joec1992/DSCN2325.jpg

This is classic. I like the thought on this. looks like it works well.

#19

McDonald’s straws are awesome. If I get a shake at Burger King (they’re 1 dollar for a small…how do you say no to that?) I go to mcdonalds and get one of their straws lol. The BK straws are weaksauce.

#20

Yeah BK straws collapse if you suck too hard. And they are too small in diameter. It’s like the Miltek of straws.

Nothing beats Starbucks/Dunkin’ Donuts straws. Those things are massive and can take a hell of a sucking.

I googled McDonald’s straws and whadda ya know, a thread dedicated to straws
http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=193213