RS4 Carbon Buildup Removal - Anyone have any tips? Best products? Good DIY?

I actually did a carbon clean a couple of weeks ago with the BMW tool that you mention. It fits the port Ok but you still get alot of walnut shells through the hole were the port separator sits.

You can purchase it from ECS

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2165972/

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2165971/


http://s28.postimg.org/ebhk0s8o9/IMG_1529.jpg

This is the cylinder 5 before


http://s8.postimg.org/fxenmtalt/IMG_1510.jpg

and after walnut shell blasting.


http://s4.postimg.org/w0ocfil09/IMG_1512.jpg

I used Nulon Carby Cleaner to break down the carbon for 5 minutes before blasting.

It killed my back the last time i did it.

This time i had the front of the car on a set of Rhino ramps and that was the perfect height for me.

Yes u can get attachments that make very little mess. Basically a cap with 2 holes one shooting the shells in and the other sucking them out just as fast. Foreign auto will do it for a good price if anyone local needs it done. They have all the proper equipment.

the worst part about doing it is being hunched over under the hood for hours. being 6’2 its hard on my back. i wont do it again without a blaster.

One thing people don’t mention is simply doing things to make IM removal easier. Most of this is very much personal preference:

-Removing SAI will keep you from having to disconnect those lines from the SAI valves in the back…everyone who’s done this job knows exactly how much of a pain in the d*ck those things are.
-Doing the JHM coolant bypass for the intake manifold makes for one less thing to remove from the IM. I also replaced the coolant hose that was joined via hose barb, with a single (longer) line to give me a bit more slack and tidy things up behind the motor.
-Running the JHM intake spacers will force you to remove (or modify, but I wouldn’t go through it) the bracket holding the 3rd bolt on the oil separator. You now just have to two that secure it to the IM, and those are much easier to get to.
-Removing the IM flaps/actuators/vac lines means you no longer have to fight to get the IM to just barely clear the radiator support
-I took the lifting rings off the heads vs. removing/installing them every time the IM comes off. In the 5+ years I’ve had the car, I’ve used those rings to pull the motor once. In the grand scheme, I’d rather spend a few minutes reinstalling them for a specific purpose vs. mindlessly reinstalling them because every time because they ‘go there’.

The less time you spend removing the IM, the less your back will hurt by the time you actually start cleaning. (I can have my IM off in <30minutes these days). I used to let the valves soak overnight, but didn’t see much difference between soaking overnight and soaking for 15-20minutes. I just let the valves soak while I’m cleaning the others…get in, get out, be done with it.

CB clean with fuel (cheap) and a couple rounds of cleaning/scraping. The walnut shell solution would be great with the right attachment (like Euro has) as the shells are probably less damaging to the valve stem coating and valve seats at the head, but that’s just my thoughts on it, having never tried it.

I actually did a carbon clean a couple of weeks ago with the BMW tool that you mention. It fits the port Ok but you still get alot of walnut shells through the hole were the port separator sits.

You can purchase it from ECS

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2165972/

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2165971/


http://s28.postimg.org/ebhk0s8o9/IMG_1529.jpg

This is the cylinder 5 before


http://s8.postimg.org/fxenmtalt/IMG_1510.jpg

and after walnut shell blasting.


http://s4.postimg.org/w0ocfil09/IMG_1512.jpg

I used Nulon Carby Cleaner to break down the carbon for 5 minutes before blasting.

It killed my back the last time i did it.

This time i had the front of the car on a set of Rhino ramps and that was the perfect height for me.

Tall people problems.

I had to sit on my engine to get at the sai lines and oil separator bolts because I couldn’t reach it easily hunched over from the front.

Tall people problems.

I had to sit on my engine to get at the sai lines and oil separator bolts because I couldn’t reach it easily hunched over from the front.

Afternoon all - I’ve started my carbon clean this weekend and I have some questions on some of these F-ing connectors… I have all my stuff ready - compressor, walnut shell blaster… but these connectors are pissing me off.

(1) The metal bands that that hold on some of the hoses - like to the vacuum hoses from the air intake - are those 1 time use? I tried to remove them gracefully - but that isn’t working real well…

(2) the hose from the air intake hose to the PVC system - its back behind the accordion air intake hose - the instructions say to squeeze the connector and pull it off - but I can’t seem to squeeze it right to get it to come off and I don’t want to break the connector. I’ve already broken the connector on the bottom of the cooling tank…

(3) I’m a bit concerned if I’m having problems with the hose above that I’ll have a bad time with the air guide hose on the back of the engine… any advice on specifically how to squeeze them to get the connectors to come off?

thanks for the help! I’m taking pictures of the procedure.

There’s a great thread on media blasting with walnut shells here: http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?t=104824

If they are the clamps that have a little boetie loop at the top. Yes those are one time use and they can be removed. I take a small screw driver put it in the hole and twist to bend the clamp over. From there open up the loop as much as you can. You will see the band of the clamp that connects to the clamp com off the barbs.

The squeeze clamps never like to come off. Spray them with some penitration lube make sure the clamp isnt cold because that will make it even less likely to come off. Squeeze on the area that has the squeeze points. From that point push in and twist and then start to pull back. You might have to do that a few times. But if you do it enough it will come off. The key is to push it on further to let the clamp open

When I did my carbon cleaning I scraped as much as possible first. Then I soaked in “gum cutter” made by Berkible. This stuff is strong. For brushes you can go to a gun store and buy a .50 caliber wire and nylon barrel cleaning spiral brush. I put them on the cleaning rod as if I were going to clean a barrel and chucked it up in an electric drill. I ran the brush in and out around the valve stem when the fluid was still in there. I did this process 2 times on each hole and they were shiny silver when I was done. I highly recommend using a syringe type fluid extractor vs a shop vac. The cleaning solvent is flammable to begin with, once it’s atomized inside a shop vac, one spark from that motor and you will be looking for new ear drums and possibly dead. Be careful!

Good idea on the barrel cleaning brush. They have those in both nylon and brass. That is a good idea for a lot of guys that dont know what kind of brush to order.

I’m about to do my cleaning on my s8 and love the gun brush idea a lot more then zip ties. Thanks for the great idea

Afternoon all - I’ve started my carbon clean this weekend and I have some questions on some of these F-ing connectors… I have all my stuff ready - compressor, walnut shell blaster… but these connectors are pissing me off.

(1) The metal bands that that hold on some of the hoses - like to the vacuum hoses from the air intake - are those 1 time use? I tried to remove them gracefully - but that isn’t working real well…

(2) the hose from the air intake hose to the PVC system - its back behind the accordion air intake hose - the instructions say to squeeze the connector and pull it off - but I can’t seem to squeeze it right to get it to come off and I don’t want to break the connector. I’ve already broken the connector on the bottom of the cooling tank…

(3) I’m a bit concerned if I’m having problems with the hose above that I’ll have a bad time with the air guide hose on the back of the engine… any advice on specifically how to squeeze them to get the connectors to come off?

thanks for the help! I’m taking pictures of the procedure.

There’s a great thread on media blasting with walnut shells here: http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?t=104824

If they are the clamps that have a little boetie loop at the top. Yes those are one time use and they can be removed. I take a small screw driver put it in the hole and twist to bend the clamp over. From there open up the loop as much as you can. You will see the band of the clamp that connects to the clamp com off the barbs.

The squeeze clamps never like to come off. Spray them with some penitration lube make sure the clamp isnt cold because that will make it even less likely to come off. Squeeze on the area that has the squeeze points. From that point push in and twist and then start to pull back. You might have to do that a few times. But if you do it enough it will come off. The key is to push it on further to let the clamp open

When I did my carbon cleaning I scraped as much as possible first. Then I soaked in “gum cutter” made by Berkible. This stuff is strong. For brushes you can go to a gun store and buy a .50 caliber wire and nylon barrel cleaning spiral brush. I put them on the cleaning rod as if I were going to clean a barrel and chucked it up in an electric drill. I ran the brush in and out around the valve stem when the fluid was still in there. I did this process 2 times on each hole and they were shiny silver when I was done. I highly recommend using a syringe type fluid extractor vs a shop vac. The cleaning solvent is flammable to begin with, once it’s atomized inside a shop vac, one spark from that motor and you will be looking for new ear drums and possibly dead. Be careful!

Good idea on the barrel cleaning brush. They have those in both nylon and brass. That is a good idea for a lot of guys that dont know what kind of brush to order.

I’m about to do my cleaning on my s8 and love the gun brush idea a lot more then zip ties. Thanks for the great idea