RS4 Carbon Buildup Removal - Anyone have any tips? Best products? Good DIY?

B6/7 S4/RS4
#18

I have found great success with using the oven cleaner. Letting that settle till the foam goes down hitting it again and then wipeing it clean. The Oven cleaner works faster then carb or brake cleaner. After I do a good run with the oven cleaner I hit the valves with the carb cleaner and let it sit over night. Most of everything by that time has been removed and you don’t have to do a lot of scrubbing.

I always get worried when it comes to valve stems and the heads. I don’t like using sharp tools in there if I can help it.

Joe

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x59/joec1992/DSCN2325.jpg

This is classic. I like the thought on this. looks like it works well.

#19

McDonald’s straws are awesome. If I get a shake at Burger King (they’re 1 dollar for a small…how do you say no to that?) I go to mcdonalds and get one of their straws lol. The BK straws are weaksauce.

#20

Yeah BK straws collapse if you suck too hard. And they are too small in diameter. It’s like the Miltek of straws.

Nothing beats Starbucks/Dunkin’ Donuts straws. Those things are massive and can take a hell of a sucking.

I googled McDonald’s straws and whadda ya know, a thread dedicated to straws
http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=193213

#21

BK/MILLTEK STRAWS SUCK!!!

#22

Ooooh ahhhhh. How did you do that

#23

stop talking about your sucking experience you two, keep that shit to PMs

#24

Bumping this back up as I’m gonna tackle this this weekend or the next (whenever it warms up past 10 degrees).

Anyone have any new tips since the last time this came up?

Here’s what I’m thinking for scraping:

  • Easy off oven cleaner
  • soak for an hour
  • hit with bunched zip ties
  • wipe clean
  • carb cleaner
  • soak 3-4 hours
  • scrape any last bits with a shaped wooden popsicle stick

Repeat for the other set of valves.

For the manifold removal, I’m just going to use the guide that NY07RS4 posted (thanks!) http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=439.0

The only modifications I’ve heard are that the vac lines to the brake booster can stay on and the coolant hose at the y connector near the EVAP Canistor doesn’t have to be removed.

I’m having trouble finding a slim 1/4" bit driver though. I’ve gone to a few Sears, Canadian tires and a princess auto but had no luck.

This is the closest thing I could find. Do you guys think it’ll fit through the gap? I know it’s a whole set, but I can’t find any individual ones.
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/universal-pass-thru-ratchet-set/852360

I’m mild anankastic so I don’t think I’ll mind spending time scraping every last nook and cranny getting it perfect. I’m more worried about cracking hoses and clips the manifold removal.

Even with all the sealing a thin layer of salt always works its way into everything so I’m fairly worried that there will be some brittle clips and hoses. Is there anything I can do to season them up to reduce the chances of cracking?

#25

Found this thing too. Wonder if it’ll fit

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Screwdrivers-And-Bits/42-pc-1-4-in-Hex-Drive-Mini-Ratcheting-Insert-Bit-Set/2920892.p

#26

Bumping this back up as I’m gonna tackle this this weekend or the next (whenever it warms up past 10 degrees).

Anyone have any new tips since the last time this came up?

Here’s what I’m thinking for scraping:

  • Easy off oven cleaner
  • soak for an hour
  • hit with bunched zip ties
  • wipe clean
  • carb cleaner
  • soak 3-4 hours
  • scrape any last bits with a shaped wooden popsicle stick

Repeat for the other set of valves.

For the manifold removal, I’m just going to use the guide that NY07RS4 posted (thanks!) http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=439.0

The only modifications I’ve heard are that the vac lines to the brake booster can stay on and the coolant hose at the y connector near the EVAP Canistor doesn’t have to be removed.

I’m having trouble finding a slim 1/4" bit driver though. I’ve gone to a few Sears, Canadian tires and a princess auto but had no luck.

This is the closest thing I could find. Do you guys think it’ll fit through the gap? I know it’s a whole set, but I can’t find any individual ones.
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/universal-pass-thru-ratchet-set/852360

I’m mild anankastic so I don’t think I’ll mind spending time scraping every last nook and cranny getting it perfect. I’m more worried about cracking hoses and clips the manifold removal.

Even with all the sealing a thin layer of salt always works its way into everything so I’m fairly worried that there will be some brittle clips and hoses. Is there anything I can do to season them up to reduce the chances of cracking?

#27

Found this thing too. Wonder if it’ll fit

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Screwdrivers-And-Bits/42-pc-1-4-in-Hex-Drive-Mini-Ratcheting-Insert-Bit-Set/2920892.p

#28

Do you guys have any tips on cleaning the inside of the manifold and flaps? I was thinking of just hitting it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, but that hasn’t been all that effective since it’s hard to get it to stick and soak.

Oven cleaner would stick, but may be a bit harsh on the plastic bits wouldn’t it?

#29

How did the oven cleaner etc work? did the shit come off pretty easy?

#30

It worked really well. I sprayed it on and let it sit for about 2-3 hours and it basically liquidated the carbon. After paper toweling it out, there wasn’t much left.

There were some carbon bits left on the edges of the valves which I got to with the bunched zip ties. Then soaked for another hour in carb cleaner and soaked it up.

The carbon bits are gone but it has a slight brown/yellow tint still. I guess that will have to do. Going to do the other three valves tomorrow.

The cleaning part is a million times more enjoyable than the manifold removal. The rest of the bits were off in about two hours but that bottom bolt on the oil separator took me a good part of an hour more.

Also broke one of those breather(?) hoses that plugs into the heads. Snapped it by the Y connection where it’s a plastic hose.

Bit of a bummer since that’s going to cost around $370 here. Not sure what other fixes there are for it. Electrical tape seems pretty temporary.

Other than that, no other casualties other than a stripped IM bolt and a cracked vac hose + T-barb at the front of the IM.

#31

Do you guys have any tips on cleaning the inside of the manifold and flaps? I was thinking of just hitting it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, but that hasn’t been all that effective since it’s hard to get it to stick and soak.

Oven cleaner would stick, but may be a bit harsh on the plastic bits wouldn’t it?

#32

How did the oven cleaner etc work? did the shit come off pretty easy?

#33

It worked really well. I sprayed it on and let it sit for about 2-3 hours and it basically liquidated the carbon. After paper toweling it out, there wasn’t much left.

There were some carbon bits left on the edges of the valves which I got to with the bunched zip ties. Then soaked for another hour in carb cleaner and soaked it up.

The carbon bits are gone but it has a slight brown/yellow tint still. I guess that will have to do. Going to do the other three valves tomorrow.

The cleaning part is a million times more enjoyable than the manifold removal. The rest of the bits were off in about two hours but that bottom bolt on the oil separator took me a good part of an hour more.

Also broke one of those breather(?) hoses that plugs into the heads. Snapped it by the Y connection where it’s a plastic hose.

Bit of a bummer since that’s going to cost around $370 here. Not sure what other fixes there are for it. Electrical tape seems pretty temporary.

Other than that, no other casualties other than a stripped IM bolt and a cracked vac hose + T-barb at the front of the IM.

#34

Electrical tape sucks, but here is something similar you could try.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/20890/SELF-FUSING-SILCONE-RUBBER/

This basically fuses to itself. We use it all over aircraft to repair wire harnesses. It really holds up and may save you a few bucks as long as the line is easy to get to.

#35

Electrical tape sucks, but here is something similar you could try.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/20890/SELF-FUSING-SILCONE-RUBBER/

This basically fuses to itself. We use it all over aircraft to repair wire harnesses. It really holds up and may save you a few bucks as long as the line is easy to get to.

#36

Thanks for the tip!

I’m going to carefully slice the plastic accordion hose off and use a rubber hose in it’s place (as suggested by Dan@JHM).

I’ll take some pics once done.

#37

Thanks for the tip!

I’m going to carefully slice the plastic accordion hose off and use a rubber hose in it’s place (as suggested by Dan@JHM).

I’ll take some pics once done.