How did the oven cleaner etc work? did the shit come off pretty easy?
It worked really well. I sprayed it on and let it sit for about 2-3 hours and it basically liquidated the carbon. After paper toweling it out, there wasn’t much left.
There were some carbon bits left on the edges of the valves which I got to with the bunched zip ties. Then soaked for another hour in carb cleaner and soaked it up.
The carbon bits are gone but it has a slight brown/yellow tint still. I guess that will have to do. Going to do the other three valves tomorrow.
The cleaning part is a million times more enjoyable than the manifold removal. The rest of the bits were off in about two hours but that bottom bolt on the oil separator took me a good part of an hour more.
Also broke one of those breather(?) hoses that plugs into the heads. Snapped it by the Y connection where it’s a plastic hose.
Bit of a bummer since that’s going to cost around $370 here. Not sure what other fixes there are for it. Electrical tape seems pretty temporary.
Other than that, no other casualties other than a stripped IM bolt and a cracked vac hose + T-barb at the front of the IM.
Do you guys have any tips on cleaning the inside of the manifold and flaps? I was thinking of just hitting it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, but that hasn’t been all that effective since it’s hard to get it to stick and soak.
Oven cleaner would stick, but may be a bit harsh on the plastic bits wouldn’t it?
How did the oven cleaner etc work? did the shit come off pretty easy?
It worked really well. I sprayed it on and let it sit for about 2-3 hours and it basically liquidated the carbon. After paper toweling it out, there wasn’t much left.
There were some carbon bits left on the edges of the valves which I got to with the bunched zip ties. Then soaked for another hour in carb cleaner and soaked it up.
The carbon bits are gone but it has a slight brown/yellow tint still. I guess that will have to do. Going to do the other three valves tomorrow.
The cleaning part is a million times more enjoyable than the manifold removal. The rest of the bits were off in about two hours but that bottom bolt on the oil separator took me a good part of an hour more.
Also broke one of those breather(?) hoses that plugs into the heads. Snapped it by the Y connection where it’s a plastic hose.
Bit of a bummer since that’s going to cost around $370 here. Not sure what other fixes there are for it. Electrical tape seems pretty temporary.
Other than that, no other casualties other than a stripped IM bolt and a cracked vac hose + T-barb at the front of the IM.
Electrical tape sucks, but here is something similar you could try.
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/20890/SELF-FUSING-SILCONE-RUBBER/
This basically fuses to itself. We use it all over aircraft to repair wire harnesses. It really holds up and may save you a few bucks as long as the line is easy to get to.
Electrical tape sucks, but here is something similar you could try.
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/20890/SELF-FUSING-SILCONE-RUBBER/
This basically fuses to itself. We use it all over aircraft to repair wire harnesses. It really holds up and may save you a few bucks as long as the line is easy to get to.
Thanks for the tip!
I’m going to carefully slice the plastic accordion hose off and use a rubber hose in it’s place (as suggested by Dan@JHM).
I’ll take some pics once done.
Thanks for the tip!
I’m going to carefully slice the plastic accordion hose off and use a rubber hose in it’s place (as suggested by Dan@JHM).
I’ll take some pics once done.
Snap a pic of the piece you broke…I removed a bunch of that crap and still have it all in my garage…
Snap a pic of the piece you broke…I removed a bunch of that crap and still have it all in my garage…
If you can please post pictures of the broken parts? I’d like to know what to watch out for. I know the RS4 is slightly different. I’d still think it would be helpful.
It’s basically this piece (Thanks NY07RS4 for the pic)
http://i.imgur.com/c0IJ0BR.jpeg
And I broke it exactly where Tony broke his recently:
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2444.msg67480#msg67480
The interesting thing is if you look at the diagram and draw a line straight up from the “18”, the part from where it intersects that line right to the Y peice is plastic. The piece that goes over the fuel rails and bolts at one spot on the TB is metal. Then the rest of it is plastic where it connects back to the engine.
I took a blade and sliced off the plastic hose piece leaving the original tips on both the metal end and plastic ends at the Y.
I picked up a foot of 3/4" heater hose for a buck and it fit perfectly.
http://www.imgur.com/PqQpzqQ.jpeg
I’ll take some more pics of it fully installed once I get the car back together (waiting on some injectors).
If you can please post pictures of the broken parts? I’d like to know what to watch out for. I know the RS4 is slightly different. I’d still think it would be helpful.
waiting on injectors? Don’t ask BEnSTi or meem or jasonamd where to find them on the cheap 
It’s basically this piece (Thanks NY07RS4 for the pic)
http://i.imgur.com/c0IJ0BR.jpeg
And I broke it exactly where Tony broke his recently:
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2444.msg67480#msg67480
The interesting thing is if you look at the diagram and draw a line straight up from the “18”, the part from where it intersects that line right to the Y peice is plastic. The piece that goes over the fuel rails and bolts at one spot on the TB is metal. Then the rest of it is plastic where it connects back to the engine.
I took a blade and sliced off the plastic hose piece leaving the original tips on both the metal end and plastic ends at the Y.
I picked up a foot of 3/4" heater hose for a buck and it fit perfectly.
http://www.imgur.com/PqQpzqQ.jpeg
I’ll take some more pics of it fully installed once I get the car back together (waiting on some injectors).
waiting on injectors? Don’t ask BEnSTi or meem or jasonamd where to find them on the cheap
Any time Mistro!
Any time Mistro!
Hmm…neither of those tools look like they will provide the necessary clearance but it is tough to tell from the pictures, especially for the 2nd one.
I will say this, even if you get the Craftsman piece, wrap your bit one time with electrical tape or something to really get it snug in the actual handle. The magnet force simply isn’t strong enough otherwise. I couldn’t find it in store either but was able to buy it online and then have it shipped to my local store. I think it was part #7475 but that is not coming up with anything on their site any longer.
And funny enough, this summer Costco carried a micro ratchet driver set for pretty cheap that would definitely work. I remember seeing i and thinking it would be PERFECT for IM removal. I just tried to google it and came up with some other options that look like they will work for you. In fact, I think any of the below will work fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6
http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-51063-Ratchet-10-Piece/dp/B001NCEXGG
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6868-mini-ratchet-and-bit-set-38-pc.aspx