When I did my carbon cleaning I scraped as much as possible first. Then I soaked in “gum cutter” made by Berkible. This stuff is strong. For brushes you can go to a gun store and buy a .50 caliber wire and nylon barrel cleaning spiral brush. I put them on the cleaning rod as if I were going to clean a barrel and chucked it up in an electric drill. I ran the brush in and out around the valve stem when the fluid was still in there. I did this process 2 times on each hole and they were shiny silver when I was done. I highly recommend using a syringe type fluid extractor vs a shop vac. The cleaning solvent is flammable to begin with, once it’s atomized inside a shop vac, one spark from that motor and you will be looking for new ear drums and possibly dead. Be careful!
Good idea on the barrel cleaning brush. They have those in both nylon and brass. That is a good idea for a lot of guys that dont know what kind of brush to order.
I’m about to do my cleaning on my s8 and love the gun brush idea a lot more then zip ties. Thanks for the great idea
Afternoon all - I’ve started my carbon clean this weekend and I have some questions on some of these F-ing connectors… I have all my stuff ready - compressor, walnut shell blaster… but these connectors are pissing me off.
(1) The metal bands that that hold on some of the hoses - like to the vacuum hoses from the air intake - are those 1 time use? I tried to remove them gracefully - but that isn’t working real well…
(2) the hose from the air intake hose to the PVC system - its back behind the accordion air intake hose - the instructions say to squeeze the connector and pull it off - but I can’t seem to squeeze it right to get it to come off and I don’t want to break the connector. I’ve already broken the connector on the bottom of the cooling tank…
(3) I’m a bit concerned if I’m having problems with the hose above that I’ll have a bad time with the air guide hose on the back of the engine… any advice on specifically how to squeeze them to get the connectors to come off?
thanks for the help! I’m taking pictures of the procedure.
There’s a great thread on media blasting with walnut shells here: http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?t=104824
If they are the clamps that have a little boetie loop at the top. Yes those are one time use and they can be removed. I take a small screw driver put it in the hole and twist to bend the clamp over. From there open up the loop as much as you can. You will see the band of the clamp that connects to the clamp com off the barbs.
The squeeze clamps never like to come off. Spray them with some penitration lube make sure the clamp isnt cold because that will make it even less likely to come off. Squeeze on the area that has the squeeze points. From that point push in and twist and then start to pull back. You might have to do that a few times. But if you do it enough it will come off. The key is to push it on further to let the clamp open
When I did my carbon cleaning I scraped as much as possible first. Then I soaked in “gum cutter” made by Berkible. This stuff is strong. For brushes you can go to a gun store and buy a .50 caliber wire and nylon barrel cleaning spiral brush. I put them on the cleaning rod as if I were going to clean a barrel and chucked it up in an electric drill. I ran the brush in and out around the valve stem when the fluid was still in there. I did this process 2 times on each hole and they were shiny silver when I was done. I highly recommend using a syringe type fluid extractor vs a shop vac. The cleaning solvent is flammable to begin with, once it’s atomized inside a shop vac, one spark from that motor and you will be looking for new ear drums and possibly dead. Be careful!
Good idea on the barrel cleaning brush. They have those in both nylon and brass. That is a good idea for a lot of guys that dont know what kind of brush to order.
I’m about to do my cleaning on my s8 and love the gun brush idea a lot more then zip ties. Thanks for the great idea