RS4 sticky clutch

A few of us have talked about the tendency of the RS4 clutch pedal to get ‘sticky’…sometimes it won’t come all the way up after certain driving conditions.

I have had it happen when I botch a rev-match badly…or when I have been logging the car and ran it to redline in third, then just popped the clutch in and disengaged, rolling along. As I would come to a stop I would notice the clutch might not come all the way up (75% or so) and would get stiff. I was doing some pbox testing the other night testing 60-90 MPH times in different shifting combinations. I found that if I revved 3rd out to past 90 MPH (approaching redline), then popped the clutch and threw it in neutral, this sticky/stiff situation would happen. If I revved out 3rd to past 90 MPH, then shifted into 4th, and kept going, no problem with the clutch…no matter if I got into 4th and kept going…or if I got into 4th and then just let the car engine brake from 5500 RPM or whatever it is, down till normalcy.

I would like to know why it’s happening. Apparently this was more common on the 2007 cars, but my car is a 2008 and it happens once in a while.

the other morning I revved the car while sitting in the parking garage (because I’m a hoodlum and it sounds awesome). I ripped revs up to about 6000 RPMs in neutral. I noticed the clutch got sticky there. I didn’t engage it…I didn’t put it into gear in any way…nothing. This was the clutch situation happening just from free revving the engine while stopped, in neutral.

Anyone have any ideas on this? I was thinking maybe my fluid might be getting knackered and could use a change. First idea.

Two things I would suggest, first the fluid is hygroscopic so change it every year or two depending on how damp your climate is. Second, bleed, bleed more and then bleed some more, stick with oem fluid or stuff without dye.

On another note, when logging or otherwise wot, if possible it is best to leave in gear and brake or just engine brake, it keeps oil pressure up.

Cool thanks for the input.

There was also a bad clutch fluid line on the early RS4s. It is the hydraulic line between the master cylinder and slave cylinder. The line is plastic and would come apart internally over time which would cause odd clutch pedal behavior since the fluid couldn’t move smoothly. I have a picture of the end of the line on my photobucket account where it is cracked halfway off. Later tonight I will post it up since I am on my phone right now.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/IMAG0209.jpg

The end of the line would flop back and forth.

Arthurpe on rs246 is on the case. Couple of interesting theories by him so far.

http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?p=612333#p612333

Sakimano, I drive the 08 model and I used to have the same issue. I solved it by swapping out the fluid with this stuff two years ago:

http://[URL=http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/sobers4/media/21678245-4592-40A9-A1B1-38029F426CFB-6830-00000771E3E41EFC.jpg.html]


http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b629/sobers4/21678245-4592-40A9-A1B1-38029F426CFB-6830-00000771E3E41EFC.jpg

Lemon

Tony, if your intention of signing up here was just to troll, you can very quickly let yourself out the front door and stay on audizoo.

No I was actually going to copy n paste my resolution to sticky clutch issue

http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y318/rs4tony/null-14.jpg

http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y318/rs4tony/null-15.jpg

http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y318/rs4tony/null-16.jpg

http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y318/rs4tony/null-17.jpg

friction plate ^

http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y318/rs4tony/null-18.jpg
only engaging on the outter edge?

http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y318/rs4tony/null-22.jpg

I changed all internals as well

http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y318/rs4tony/null-23.jpg

http://i1025.photobucket.com/albums/y318/rs4tony/null-24.jpg

Here’s where I think the problem lies, that rivet backed out.(bottom left)

I believe it lies between the rivet that popped out and the guide sleeve being all worn down from improper grease AoA says that gets hot bc it’s not high temp rated and the grease gets caked on and that guide sleeve rides on the harden grease which causes it to start shaving the sleeve itself(as shown in the picture)

I tried ruling out the smaller things first. Did a flush, no good
Did the metal slave and SS line, no good.

Next thing was dropping the tranny.

My car build date is 10/2006.

So what’s the solution? Use high temp grease?

That’s a theory.

Tony what clutch is on your car now?

Also, nobody believes the guy who thinks the race fluid helps? I personally don’t know anyone who has tried that and refuted it yet…

I don’t think sticky clutch is caused by a bolt backing out. If that was the case, it would always be a problem. RS4 sticky clutch as I’ve descrubed it in this thread is intermittent and only under very specific circumstances.

For those who have permanent sticky clutch, there could certainly be a problem with hardware.

I replaced the stage 4 from JHM with another stage 4 bc I love the bite and lwfw. Also keep it mind it wasn’t just the grease(who knows if it even was, but when my tech took it out, it was thick, chunky-the grease giving us the idea that guide sleeve rode on it and causes stickiness)

Also my pressure plate had a backed out rivet just like mistro and that other extea wide body rs4(iirc, Ron?)

Long story short, JHM covered me for a pressure plate and the clutch disc was in great condition.

Absolutely saki, but this is what I think was the issue in my case.

I do also run Motul RBF600 fluid.

I’ve been running RBF600 since I had everything installed 20 months ago.

Iirc you have an s4 with rs4 pressure plate and had sticky clutch?

sorry, you replaced your JHM clutch with what? the same clutch? So you just needed a new pressure plate?

Did you get the 5r pressure plate, or another painted stock RS4 pressure plate?

when did you do this?