Next weekend I’ll be ready. There’s quite a bit I have planned and it starts soon. I really need to make time to clean my valves.
So the car got a lot of goodies in this past month including 20x10.5 wheels and 285 MPS4S tires square, 034 rear bar on aggressive, H&R front bar on soft, JHM lowering springs, a few of the ECS bushing inserts as well as the JHM stage 2 and Macan brake ducts. I took it on another rally through the Tail of the Dragon and another 250 miles of fast and extremely aggressive mountain driving. The car is full weight and definitely suffers from high front tire temperatures, specifically the front left. It suffers the most on long repetitive high speed (~60-70 mph) corners. The MPS4S get a greasy feeling and you can tell the car wants to lose grip and push. The good news is the tires cool down quickly and regain their composure and the failure is pretty easy to detect. The JHM tune is wonderful and never missed a beat. The mid range torque increase is nuts and it damn near fells like a turbo car at 4000-5000 rpm. The suspension upgrades were also very dialed but there’s always room for improvement. This car badly needs a front end diet and I heavily relied on braking rather than taking the racing line due to tire temperatures. The car shines on the super-twisty Tail of the Dragon and Hellbender, never feeling greasy and always hooking those second gear apexes. The 365 factory sized ECS replacements with factory Brembo pads never had a hint of fade it I was certainly mindful of the possibility of it. I felt very confident during the entire day’s drive and learned the edge of the car’s capabilities as well as learning my own. Cars that ran with me included gen 1 M2, GTR, 992 turbo S, lots of different Lotus, corvettes, and a plethora of incredibly loud and arrogant mustang drivers. I’ll be going for a third time later this year after the front end goes on a diet and most likely some semi-slicks.
The couple of front end suggestions I can think of right off hand is a complete removal of the SAI system including the two front Air pumps and a Seibon Carbon fiber hood (surprisingly but only a little over 20lb savings). The whole SAI system is probably good for close to 15lbs. Not sure if those new wheels of yours are Forged or Cast, Forged wheels can be a great weight savings. Maybe something closer to a 9.5~10" wheel would be more optimum?
I am waiting for headers to do SAI, LWFW, S6 clutch plate. I am interested in the Revozport hood for the airflow rather than the Seibon even though the latter has better quality. My new wheels are not forged but even with the wider wheel and tire they weigh the same as OEM which was acceptable to me. In the future I’d like to have an extra set of lightweight forged wheels with semi slicks on them. I’ll probably have this car forever and if/when it blows up I’ll swap in a 4.0tt.
I got the eurocode sway bars front and rear. Super planted now and weaves through traffic with confidence. Everything helps.
2015 b8.5 RS5
EC sways front/rear
EC end links
AK
CR15
EC trans insert
EC diff insert
Capristo
Michelin PS4S
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Good call getting both of the same setup. I would be nervous just modifying one of the axes
I would definitely run a balanced front/rear sway bar and not just the rear 034 bar if you go with those over springs. Unless, of course, you like so much oversteer the car no longer handles power transfer to the rear wheels at a corner’s apex. 034 uses the same bar for the A5 and S5 which have different chassis tuning from the RS5.
Hey Michael @RS5 , been reading your posts and I got a suggestion here since you are doing mountain carving; go for a front upper control arms kit. Increase front negative camber to -2.0 up to -2.4, with the rear camber maintaining at stock -1.4. keep caster and toe-in same as stock. you will need a shop with a Hunter alignment system to achieve this level of precision
This really helps a lot with the nose heavy nature of the RS5. I’ve installed the SPC Upper Control Arms kit on my B8 RS4 in Hong Kong, and it handles those mountain roads very well. 034 also has track-spec upper control arms that can achieve -2.4 camber. The car, albeit weighing 1800kg+, still can keep up with R35 GTR, E92 M3s and M2 on mountain roads.
Best Regards,
Andrew Yeung
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Thanks for the suggestion! I’ve definitely considered it too because I do a few mountain rallies each year and I push the car harder each time. During one long high speed corner the brand new PS4S tires got greasy and I understeered into the oncoming lane. Definitely scared me. I won’t be going back until I reduce nose weight, add negative camber, and slap on semi slicks.
Carbon Fiber hood will delete 20+lbs and SAI delete with removing both Airpumps will be good for a little less than 20lbs. Not sure but the Redmist racing front bumper reinforcement bar not only increases airflow but it has to save a couple of pounds too.
My pleasure @RS5, I’m already excited about your upcoming mountain rallies just by hearing it. They sound like the kind of stuff I would love as well, especially when you mentioned Tail of the Dragon. I’ve never been but seen enough pics to know what it is. Roads in Hong Kong are mostly like that too.
On top of the CR-15, might I suggest the UltraRacing front top strut brace as well. I have added both, and along with the Alu Kreuz you have (034 x-brace for me, since I am RHD), it completely eliminates chassis distortion under high speed cornering, further reducing understeer. Along with the camber kit, you can sort of do trail braking and still maintain composure of car without oversteering.
I don’t know if you feel the same way, but the B8 rear is also a bit flabby, especially when you are doing trail braking around a tight corner. I find that, installing the ECStuning rear lower control arm brace, really helps keep the rear end tight. It definitely increases rear chassis rigidity for me and I can go around tight corners, round-abouts much quicker, as if the car is smaller and more agile. Definitely something you want when you go mountain carving.
youdame86, did you really notice a big difference after installing the ECS rear lower control arm brace? Did you do other rear mods at the same time? My front end is rock solid (H&R coilovers, lowered about 2~2.5cm, AluKreuz, CR-15, Lightened with Carbon Fiber hood and complete SAI system delete, Forged wheels, Lithium Battery (15+kilos with this alone). But I do feel as you mentioned that in high speed corners the rear end seems to be a little loose/unstable, don’t really notice it in low speed corners as the Sport Diff seems pretty good about pushing the rear end around then. If you really think the ECS brace in the rear helped then I’ll have to install one too.
Hey. @hahnmgh63, yes it definitely did, especially when attacking corners at high speeds. You can feel it esp when you go around roundabouts, hair-pins, etc. the car’s rear feels tight and composed, almost like thrashing an RS3/Golf around a corner. It’s only 80 bucks as well, so definitely not expensive.
I have a similar setup to you for my B8 RS4, as below
- Canyon Run CR-15 strut brace
- Bilstein PSS10/B16
- 034motorsport spherical end links (front + rear)
- 034motorsport aluminium X-brace
- 034motorsport transmission inserts set
- 034motorsport transmission rubber mount
- 034motorsport rear subframe aluminium inserts
- ECS rear lower control arm brace
- 034motorsport rear toe link
- supersprint down pipe + mid pipe
- KN air filter
- 034 street density motor mounts for RS5/S5 V8
- Goodridge S/S brake lines brake
- Girodisc Magic pads
- SPC camber-adjustable upper control arms
- Powerflex bushings - purple for rear control arms
- 034motorsport rear sway bar 25.4mm
- JHMotorsport stage 2 ECU + TCU remap
- RMR transmission cooler for Borg-Warner DL501
- Girodisc front rotors 380mm
- Girodisc rear rotors 320mm
- JXB performance drive shaft carrier upgrade
I used to have H&R front + rear sways, however I found the front sway to be too stiff, causing understeer, and thus swapped out to stock from sway bar and rear is 034 + endlinks. The result is a livelier front end, which I find good for mountain carving
Interested to hear your thoughts on mountain carving setup as well!
Here’s latest pic of my car, with an added roof box these days
Looks like you have spent quite a bit on getting your RS4 to handle perfectly v nice !!
Have you got the links to the UltraRacing front top strut brace and the ECS rear lower control arm brace at all ?
I’ve just myself changed the complete front control upper and lower and suspension arms on the front with Mylar HD kit and swapped out my DRC to Bilsteins PSS10’s with KW DRC Cancellation Kit and love the difference its made so these other items will go well with what I’ve already done ! I already had H&R ARB front and rear with ECS front and rear drop links fitted.
Hey Steve,
Whoaaa look at all those different bright colors, you got a lovely setup there as well! Here’s a pic of mine with the rear lower control arm brace (black and red)
I initially went with 034 lower control arms, however the shop I went to did not install them properly, and so the bushings ripped after a year. I then went with Meyle HD on FCP euro since they offer that lifetime free replacement program for the same parts.
Here’s the links for the two items:
- ECSTuning rear lower control arm brace: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/rear-lower-control-arm-brace/008050ecs01kt/
Simple to install, just need a good torque wrench as the torque values are quite high and require 90 degrees or more after tightening. Make sure to do it while at ride height.
- UltraRacing front top strut brace: https://www.ebay.com/itm/394006543846?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=TjkuUTGBQEm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=-IBOhu_-S46&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
You can find this quite easily on other sites from eBay as well. I ordered this initially and it required a 5 week wait time, so I just cancelled it and ordered from another place.
Word of caution on fitment though; since this bar is intended for B8 RS5, which has a bulgier hood than B8 RS4, the bar will be touching the hood on B8 RS4. The mounting points are identical, so installing is easy. But you may need to file the bar at one certain point to alleviate pressure between strut bar and hood. You may also need to remove the heat proof mat attached to the hood. I have attached pic and circled the part that requires filing down. It will definitely not look pretty as you are removing the paint on the bar.
The torque values for the strut bar’s mounting points are 40NM + 90 degrees.
Just ordered 2 of the lower control arm braces from ECS, they are on sale right now. One for my RS5 and one for the S5. I’ll get them installed next week hopefully.
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nice, let me know what you think. FYI the torque values are 70NM + 180 degrees, at ride height.
Thanks for the links Andrew much appreciated 
Yes I’ve went with FCP Euro for my Mylar HD arms etc for the same reason cost me an extra few quid but worth it. I might do the rear control arms as well now.
I’m happy with the set up its not to hard a ride one of the reasons I went with the HD’s than powerflex bushes or 034. I replaced all top mounts as well for good measure so everything front end is new feels great what a difference !
Love your set up you have dialed it in perfectly by the sounds of things.
Out of interest what have you set your Bilsteins to ie number of clicks front and back ?
Ooo thanks for the heads up Mark ill get this ordered asap
Hey Steve,
My B16/PSS10 is set to 5 clicks front, 4 clicks rear.
Since you already got the JHM stage 2 and also other power upgrades, may I suggest some drivetrain upgrades, it really helps with alleviating power loss/drivetrain sloppiness.
I have the following installed, which I found really helps putting the power down and improve throttle response.
- 034 drivetrain inserts
- 034 density line street motor mounts for V8
- 034 transmission rubber mount
- JXBPerformance driveshaft carrier upgrade
1-3 are also available on ECSTuning, as polyurethane inserts rather than aluminium ones.
JHM has an upgrade similar to 4 as well: https://jhmotorsports.com/products/jhm/driveshaft-center-support-bearing-carrier-insert-billet-upgrade-kit-jhm-no-cutting-required-for-all-audi-vw-b5-c5-b6-c6-b7-c7-b8-and-more.html
all of them made significant, noticeable differences in acceleration and exiting corners; never tested it with equipment before but i am quite sure it helped me reduce 0.1-0.2 on my 0-100km/h time. I did a drag race with an IE Stage 1 B8.5 S4, and it exceeded the S4 by at least 1-1.5 car lengths, which was better than i expected (search Chris Harris S4 vs RS4 video on youtube)