Please forgive me? I’ve come across a thread on Audizine that that has several people complaining about warped rotors
on RS5s within about 12,000 miles. My dealer even advised me of a recently sold RS5 they had in their shop that had the problem and they blamed it on "spacers’? Good grief!!! Opinions please.
blaming spacers is generally a dealer ‘we don’t know what’s going on, but if there is ANYTHING aftermarket, let’s blame that’
That extends everywhere - like the time Bell said our difficulties were on account of the microphone/audio interface I have plugged into my computer. Turned off my computer. Problem persisted. Then they tried to say it was STILL the problem.
I know folks that are on their third set of wave rotors.
I swapped out to a girodisc 380mm kit and haven’t looked back.
I put Brembos all around for $8500 on my S4.
Spacers shouldn’t affect the brake rotors at all, that doesn’t even make sense. Whoever they talked into that excuse is an idiot.
That’s an awesome upgrade…definitely strange the stock rotors aren’t directionally vaned properly. A guy on the S4 board recently put the Macan brakes on his car and they had separate L/R rotors.
But I’m surprised you are considering a BBK given you already have 2 piece rotors and a nice brembo caliper. I remember you saying pad replacement costs suck. But what do you upgrade to, Alcon monoblocks? I would probably choose those over AP racining radical or brembo GT. At your level, I wouldn’t think stoptech ST-60’s or the forged trophy calipers would be a substantial upgrade.
So I assume you changed the caliper bracket to fit the larger rotors? If so, then I believe you pushed the bias forward. Which for an already forward biased car, probably reduces performance somewhat at threshold. What type of pads do you run at the track front/rear?
Let me tell you about my stunt. Bought some ECS spacers, 15mm front, 10mm rear. It’s a ECS RS5 kit. Of course I failed to note that the front spacers came with new 45mm long bolts and the rear 40mm. So, I obviously put bolts in the wrong position, 45mm rear, 40mm front on one side of. The good news was I caught it and got away with it, no damage. However, my dealer tech, told me how the recently sold RS5 owner did worse and somehow his elongated bolts were so long that were screwed and torqued 100ft/lbs into all four wheel hubs causing damage. RS5 brake rotors are the floating type, correct? Perhaps the damage to the hub ceased this function causing the damage?
That’s a good catch…probably $1000/side type catch? Yea, always supposed to try and rotate the wheels freely before driving them.
Some guy on AZ did this with a BFI kit and everything was ruined…I really want to do a stud conversion…so fucking tired of keeping track of all the bolts I have (along with the stock ones for the spare). Plus, changing wheels with studs would be a lot easier. Will just need to flip my 20mm H&R bolt on trac spacers for the set that take really long bolts.
That’s an awesome upgrade…definitely strange the stock rotors aren’t directionally vaned properly. A guy on the S4 board recently put the Macan brakes on his car and they had separate L/R rotors.
But I’m surprised you are considering a BBK given you already have 2 piece rotors and a nice brembo caliper. I remember you saying pad replacement costs suck. But what do you upgrade to, Alcon monoblocks? I would probably choose those over AP racining radical or brembo GT. At your level, I wouldn’t think stoptech ST-60’s or the forged trophy calipers would be a substantial upgrade.
So I assume you changed the caliper bracket to fit the larger rotors? If so, then I believe you pushed the bias forward. Which for an already forward biased car, probably reduces performance somewhat at threshold. What type of pads do you run at the track front/rear?
The backward vanes on the driver’s side is one thing. My main issue with the wave rotors is the structural issue.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/22/0f368293d51247d53237df64c01895d0.jpg
If you look at the pins where the friction rings are attached to the bell, on one side, there is more material than the other. This means that it’s designed to take high load only in one direction. And that happens to coincide with which way the vanes are oriented.
Because of that, I had cracking around ALL of the pins on the rotor that’s backwards. That’s after three track days…
My main reason for me considering a BBK is because of the caliper… The 8 pistons are all the same sized vs the progressively sized Pistons found on most proper BBKs. That causes uneven pad wear. That and the expensive pads (since its 4 pads per caliper) makes it more of an annoyance. Which is why I haven’t quite made the leap. It “works” as-is. But if I find a good deal, I’d be tempted.
My main reason for me considering a BBK is because of the caliper… The 8 pistons are all the same sized vs the progressively sized Pistons found on most proper BBKs. That causes uneven pad wear. That and the expensive pads (since its 4 pads per caliper) makes it more of an annoyance. Which is why I haven’t quite made the leap. It “works” as-is. But if I find a good deal, I’d be tempted.
I would like to say that the caliper pistons are different sizes. There is a larger and smaller one per pad. I recently rebuilt my R8 calipers that use the same piston and seal set as the RS4/RS5. The part numbers are the same.
Here is a picture. Notice that the two pistons that are upside down are noticeably different sizes.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0049_zpsq2mygnbb.jpg
Just to add. Rotors don’t warp. They aren’t wood. Rotors will crack but not warp. The vibration comes from baked in pad deposits
I would like to say that the caliper pistons are different sizes. There is a larger and smaller one per pad. I recently rebuilt my R8 calipers that use the same piston and seal set as the RS4/RS5. The part numbers are the same.
Here is a picture. Notice that the two pistons that are upside down are noticeably different sizes.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0049_zpsq2mygnbb.jpg
Thanks for the info, Jimmy!
It’s still not quite the same as aftermarket (I have a pic somewhere that shows the difference in pad wear). But that’s to be expected from a stock parts bin I suppose. If anything, at least it’s not a floating setup.
On a side note, do you have the part numbers for the dust boots? Mine have been torched to a crisp.
The part number for the dust boots is 3D0698472.
By the way, I found this part number price comparison software to look up OEM part numbers for lower prices. It seems to work pretty well.