The flaps are motorized so there is no vac that would cause those to not work. Check the plugs and check to make sure the brackets in the link I showed you are removed.
You can check for vac leaks a few ways. One of the simple ways is to go buy starter fluid and spray it in the area you think there is a leak. If the leak is big enough the RPM will rise. Or you can use soapy water and spray that around to see if you get any bubbles.
RPM surge usually is something you see with vac leaks.
Check if you installed the manifold gaskets correctly they are two spacers they look the same but i think they are slightly different (not sure but worth the check ) one is for the left and the other is for the right and also the installation direction. Check if you have installed it the correct way like up and down and not the opposite direction. Also check if any screws on the intake are loose i think ones you install the spacers you need to drive the car hard everything will settle in and the. You need to re tight the screws again, maybe one screw is loose and it’s causing the leak
I know its a stupid question. .is it possible you could have an S6 for 80-90k and it not need a carbon clean?
There must be people driving around out there completely oblivious to the carbon clean issue (not just v10) who are very happy with the way their car is… sure they my have slight loss of performance - will they even know?
The thing that is hard about carbon is that it’s not going to be the same on every car. Almost every case of carbon build up is going to be different. But lots of these cars have made it to 90k miles without cleaning but now those cars are seeing issues with pinging misfires cold start issues and damaged injectors.
So its possible but if you let carbon go too long unchecked youll have an issue sooner or later.
So I found my issue. The PCV hose on the driver side had a big split in it. Found it taking the intake hose off. Easy fix and it runs so much better now.
My mpg increased as well. Before I was getting about 150 miles when my needle was getting to half. Now i’m at about 210 and I’m showing half a tank.
Only issue I’m having now is the P2004 and P2005 codes . weird thing is the past 2 days I never get them on my drive to work in the morning but get them when I’m leaving the office in the afternoon they show up .
I think this is my problem with the servo arm hitting the bracket. How exactly did you raise it?
I put a hex nut under the bracket to lift it a little higher. I think I only have it attached at the vertical stud. But it seems to do the trick.
I’m having P2004 and P2005 errors since a recent clean and IM spacer being fitted. I’ve been able to check with VCDS and the actuator arm is opening fully, but can jam open and takes a long time to re-close again?
Is this the same problem you guys are seeing? I mentioned about a hose that may need adjusting to my garage/mechanic but he said there was no issue?
http://i60.tinypic.com/2lvl6y8.jpg
This bracket was causing problems for me. I filed out he T30 and the 10mm holes so that the bracket could move up a little and away from the arm. Since one end of the bracket is mounted to the head and one end mounted to the intake and you install the intake spacers it causes the arm to just hit the bracket. I believe it tries to open and once it gets stuck it doesn’t try anymore and throws a code. After modifying the bracket a tad I haven’t gotten any codes since.
Yes either remove the bracket or midify to clear the intake arm
still haven’t figured out my misfire issue. I connected VCDS and checked the measuring blocks to see which cylinder was giving a misfire and cylinder 8 was missing pretty frequently. Only thing I have not done is checked the gap on the plug. I replaced the plug awhile back with OEM plugs so maybe this one didn’t get gapped right when it was made.
I’m in the process of replacing my radiator also. Went ahead and replaced the belt and also the front main seal… Anyone have the torque spec on the 8 bolts that hold the crank pulley on? JHM lists 20 foot pounds when using their lightweight pulley. Also is blue Loctite sufficient for the bolts? I cant imagine any need for red Loctite .
still haven’t figured out my misfire issue. I connected VCDS and checked the measuring blocks to see which cylinder was giving a misfire and cylinder 8 was missing pretty frequently. Only thing I have not done is checked the gap on the plug. I replaced the plug awhile back with OEM plugs so maybe this one didn’t get gapped right when it was made.
I’m in the process of replacing my radiator also. Went ahead and replaced the belt and also the front main seal… Anyone have the torque spec on the 8 bolts that hold the crank pulley on? JHM lists 20 foot pounds when using their lightweight pulley. Also is blue Loctite sufficient for the bolts? I cant imagine any need for red Loctite .
Is cylinder 8 the only one missing? If so is it just missifreing on cold start or all the time even when driving.
After it was fully warmed up it was still having misfires. Its sometimes doing it on coldstart as well. I pulled up all of the measuring blocks to watch each cylinder and 8 was the only one that was frequently registering a misfire. I did not sit and watch it while driving. Its hard to keep track of and the counter resets randomly for some reason. I just don’t see a reason for the car to misfire so frequently on a specific cylinder when the car is fully warmed up and just idling. Like I said, I need to check the gap on the spark plug. Just got done replacing the radiator and just haven’t gotten around the pulling the plug out yet. Plugs were replaced about 18k miles ago with OEM plugs and not too long after I replaced all the coils. It shouldn’t have a reason to be misfiring. Only guess is the gap is maybe off on that plug. I did a carbon clean less than 2k miles ago. I’ve even checked for oil around the plug, cleaned everything, even swapped in an old coil just to see if that made any difference. Where to next?
Also has anyone tried out the new JHM transmission tune?
The good news is it is confined to the one cylinder. If that is the case and I know you don’t want to hear this. But pull the injector out and swap the number 8 with the number 4. If the misfire goes to number 4 that tells you everything you need to know.
If you want to take a step before that. Do a comp test and see what the entire bank comes back with. But since we all know injectors are such a big deal on these cars and misfires are almost always in part injector related. It would be the best place to test.
The JHM TCU tune. I had it for my B6 a lot time ago. Very impressive. It really helps wake up the transmission as that is the next detuned part of the car. JHM unlocks the ECU up till the point where the TCU steps in and pulls back power.
I know JHM is releasing the TCU tune soon if it isn’t already out in beta testing for the S6 and S8
I replaced all of the injectors not even 10k miles ago with the JHM flow matched injectors.
Just for the sake of testing it would be best to try moving the injectors and see. You might see carbon collection on the tips.
Did you use media blast to carbon clean or chemical.
pulled out the spark plugs for #6 7 and 8 today and checked the gap. All seemed fine but I’m still having misfire issues. Today got a code misfires on 6 and 8. Everything seems the worst when the engine is cold. I’m getting super stumped on this. JHM flow matched injectors, new spark plugs and new coils all fairly recently. I don’t get why this engine is misfiring. The passenger side bank of cylinders is fine. Any ideas on what I can check next? I’m not thinking this is an injector issue currently since the car cruises fine. I don’t know if I maybe have a vacuum leak or what. My long term fuel trims seem out of whack. Any ideas where to go next?
When I did the carbon cleaning I used chemicals. No media blasters.
Drove the car some today. As the car warms up it misfires less and less on cylinder 8. But it’s still counting a lot of misfires even when the engine is warm.
I watched the misfire counter on VCDS and when the car idles it misfires on 8 but when I add in some throttle it stops misfiring. Cruising down the road it’s not logging any misfires. Not totally sure if it’s actually not misfiring while cruising or it’s just not being picked up by the computer.
Still lost on why it’s doing this.
So I’ve ordered a compression checking tool to see if cylinder #8 is having issues. If it checks out then I’ll take the intake off and replace the injector with a new Hitachi one. Kinda hoping its the injector at that point. I replaced all of them awhile back with JHM flow matched injectors so maybe one of them is crapping out.