The actual RPM activated flaps are inside the intake manifold. So there isnt a chance that the flaps in the intake are being effected by the spacers.
The flaps that people see in the lower side of the intake are for cold start. Those flaps are only opened during cold start and if something was to interfeer with those flaps they would fault open.
This isnt to say that the flaps on the inside of the intake are not working improperly. It would be just to say the power flaps are inside the intake.
Okay so the metal flaps at the end of the manifold that are controlled by the motors on the front are only for cold starts? I don’t see how the flaps inside the manifold could suddenly not be working…are these also controlled by one of the plugs at the front of the manifold as well (there are four plugs) ?
I’m kind of at a loss as to what I should do…do I have to actually open the manifold? I don’t see how the flaps could not be working now, the manifold literally just sat there while I cleaned the valves then was put back on.
I did some more info searching on the manifold and the codes I’m getting (P2007/P2008) and it seems that the codes are referring to the actual metal flaps where the manifold runners contact the block (these are the tumblers if I understand correctly) as these are the only flaps that have sensors. From what I could find the internal flaps (changeover flaps?) do not have sensors and would not throw a code.
I guess it’s possible the plastic changeover flaps broke and pieces of them are preventing the tumbler flaps from moving correctly. It seems to me that if the tumbler flaps are actually stuck in a semi closed position that would greatly restrict the air flow into the ports and result in the loss of power I’m experiencing. Either way the manifold has to come back off for further troubleshooting…
yes the inside power flaps dont have sensors. They are run off a motor still.
If you can take a picture of your connectors hooked up to the tumberflaps. It is possible to have the one side hooked up wrong but still have the motor flap moving. If you see the motor flap moving for the tumble flaps all the way. There is a chance there isnt anything wrong there and its just the plugs.
If you can post the actual full code and not just the P code. Even if you have the VCDS data that will be more helpful.
Sure thing. Here are the codes from each ECU:
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Control Module Part Number: 4F1 910 552 A HW: 4F1 907 552
Component and/or Version: 5.2L V10/4V FSI ª0040
Software Coding: 01050009190F0160
Work Shop Code: WSC 02335 758 00200
VCID: 224BEB94FDA4292E47-8076
2 Faults Found:
008198 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1
P2006 - 001 - Stuck Closed - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 123042 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.02.23
Time: 02:33:03
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1760 /min
Load: 54.5 %
Speed: 18.0 km/h
Temperature: 70.0°C
Temperature: 15.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.462 V
And
Address 11: Engine II Labels: Redir Fail!
Control Module Part Number: 4F1 910 552 A HW: 4F1 907 552
Component and/or Version: 5.2L V10/4V FSI ª0040
Software Coding: 01050009190F0160
Work Shop Code: WSC 02335 758 00200
VCID: 224BEB94FDA4292E47-8076
1 Fault Found:
008199 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 2
P2007 - 001 - Stuck Closed - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 123042 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.02.23
Time: 02:33:03
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1762 /min
Load: 54.5 %
Speed: 18.0 km/h
Temperature: 70.0°C
Temperature: 15.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.589 VI had a similar problem, see: http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3790.msg109471#msg109471
Yup, what he said! Move the bracket out of the way of the actuator arm.
Oh wow, didn’t realize that thread was available! I did notice that driver side front bracket was kind of close after the spacer install, but I ended up leaving it on and just rotating the second bracket that holds the SAI sensor and 2 vacuum lines around so it was away from the arm. Maybe it’s not enough, I’ll try actually removing both of those brackets.
I was not able to remove the bracket on the front passenger side since there is very little space to access the front bolt with the radiator in the car. Would this bracket also pose a problem? It looks like it clears okay, but maybe not.
I’ll try removing both of those drivers side brackets and hopefully that’s all the issue was!
Took both of those driver side front brackets off and no more codes! Car also is pulling hard again in the higher rpm range. Thank you all so much for the assistance! This is easily the most helpful forum I’ve ever used!
Hats off to you for you to even try and undertake a job of this nature 
phew
Wow, that must be an enormous relief - heck, MY stomach sank when I read of your plight.
I can’t fathom buttoning it all back up and encountering that, I’d have shart! Would definitely be my luck too. Reading your post had me panic stricken to embark on my own CC this summer as I’d been psyching myself up to do, great to hear of an easy and successful resolution.
Well done! Will certainly be referencing this post when my time comes…
Haha thanks! Honestly I would highly recommend doing the Cc yourself. Remove the manifold is very easy in my opinion and with all the great info on here it’s pretty easy as a DIY project. Once the fuel rails and hosing is removed off the top it’s just a matter of loosening bolts! Only those plugs on the bottom of the manifold are a little tricky. Just have a friend pop them out with somebody else holding the manifold.
I thought removing the manifold on my B5 A4 was more of a pain because of all the crap bolted to the bottom.
If I had seen justincredible’s post about those brackets earlier I would have freaked out less, lol.
I have some pics of the bolt torque and removal pattern for the manifold too, I’ll throw those up here when I get home along with some tools that made removing the harder to reach bolts easier.
When you do decide to do it just take your time and post if you have any questions! Keep telling yourself, I’m saving $1300!
Sorry brenden when I saw the codes I was thinking of mentioning the brakets but thought you had probably seen it already. Glad to hear you got it all worked out
Oh no worries! I should have searched the forum first then I wouldn’t have even ran into the issue. Thanks for all your help though!
Okay here are the removal and installation patterns for the manifold. I didn’t really care for those allen head bolts supplied with the spacer kit. I’m going to try to find some torx bolts that will work the next time I do a CC.
Removal:
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/94105550.jpg
And install:
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/751051560.jpg
My S6 buttoned back up and running great!
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/665236906.jpg
Nice post on the bolt intake and removal. That will be helpful.
I think the reason they use allen head bolts is due to the slim profile of the allen keys. You can have a long slim profile when you use allen keys or sockets. Its normal for allen key sockets to be slim and several inches long. Since that isnt the case with torx it can make it very hard to tighten down the bolts for the intake or take them out with the fuel lines on or in place. Just something to think about
Yeah I understand the idea behind the allen head bolts since it’s a tight fit for those bolts. I just like the snug feel of the torx over allens in general and I have a lot of torx bits/tools so it won’t impact the ease of removal for me. Not saying the bolts that come with the kit are bad or anything, just personal preference
I actually did have one final question. When I took the manifold off I luckily only had 3 valves open and just cleaned them very carefully. My question is, is there an easy way to rotate the engine? Is it accessible from under the car or do you have to take the front off?
Great thread and great forum!
I’m getting ready to do this job as well so very interested in how to turn over engine. I thought I saw that you might be able to turn by the belt via alternator or Ac compressor, haven’t confirmed.
How did you clean valves? Oven cleaner?
The closed valves I just filled with carb cleaner and let them sit over night. Next day I just soaked it up with shop rags and used medical swabs (look like Q-tips/ear swabs but with long wooden handles) to get out the chunks of carbon. If it still looked bad after one soak, I did another. 2 soaks was the most I needed for the closed valves.
For the open valves I just soaked a shop rag in carb cleaner and stuffed it into the valve, let that sit over night, removed the next day and used the medical swabs along with a shop vacuum attached to some tiny vacuum tubing so I could have it in while I chipped away at the carbon deposits with the swabs. This was a PITA to do and very time consuming but it did prevent the chunks of carbon from falling into the cylinder. I think I used around 300 swabs by the time I was done. Next time I do the cleaning I will definitely be rotating the engine and only cleaning the open valves.
I would point out though that my engine had a carbon cleaning done by the previous owner about 20k miles before I did it, so the intakes were not too bad at all. If it’s been a long time since yours has been done (or never) you might have to use a more aggressive method to get them clean. I know there is the zip-ties in a drill method (I actually had this ready, but didn’t need to use it) or some other kind of brushes (was looking at paint gun or gun cleaning kits), but mine didn’t need it.
Also I did not clean the inside of the intake manifold itself. There is a lot of plastic and rubber parts inside and the carb cleaner would probably damage or destroy it. I just cleaned off the ends of the manifold (where the tumbler flaps are) by hand with the medical swabs, shop rags and some seafoam.
Lastly I did read somewhere that the stock manifold bolts should be replaced after 1 use. I don’t know if this is true or not but since I installed the spacer kit I did not reuse the stock bolts. Maybe somebody else can confirm/deny this.
The best way I found to turn over the motor is by using the bolt on the alternator turn it clock wise that will turn over the motor