I have decided to start a little mini series. The V10 needs to come out to reseal some oil leaks from multiple areas. Will also be deleting the 4 resonators while the exhaust is apart.
Using a FPV cheapo headcam, so the audio is not very good. I hope the videos are satisfactory and informative. Comments, suggestions and subscribers always welcome!
Also, I have never edited videos before so it is not the best production.
Thanks for watching,
https://youtu.be/xln0bFDP2v0
Ill watch to give you clicks. Just make sure to update this thread so I know when you put up a new video.
Also as a suggestion. I would keep the res in until after you know how you feel about the tone after pulling the cats out. IMHO the stock catback on the S8 is really good pulling the cats out will make it sounds even better. You can always pull the res out later after you know how it sounds.
I am still so hesitant about pulling the cats. Only about the smell, thats it.
I dont know how these cars are in specific, but i did go reading on the audi forums regarding no cats on the s4s, lot of people say they do smell in traffic. I do like to have the windows down cruisig sometimes, to listen to the exhaust note, and definitly dont want to expose the little one to it…what you think??
My goal for the vidoes is for them to pay for at least 1 O2 sensor lol. I will consider the mission a success then. Editing etc takes way too long, as if i dont have enough things ti do around the house…always gotta learn something new…
Actually I came to a conclusion…I think I will cut the cats out, weld in straight pipe in their place, maintain the stock O2 positions, then just add some maganflow stainless 2.75" in/out 100 cell cats right after the headers.
100 cell cats hardly pose a restriction, it wont stink, and I get to make a new stainless X pipe system.
Justin, i will surely post updates here as I move alone, but subscribers are always welcome 
Good decisions! Just Watched the video. Will subscribe.
I would pull the cats as you have the motor out anyway and we know the cats on the cars are prone to fail.
I have a real JHM header S4 and I can tell you with my two little kids there isn’t any smell and I know a few others in the same boat as well. Running good gas and a properly maintained car will help all of this. On the S4 owners what you see on other forums is guys who are burning oil and they smell that.
The other thing that you have in your side is the S6 and S8 ECU is smarter than the S4. The S4 ECU is much older and not able to do as much.
As for editing. Have a piece of cardboard or a big book. After you have accomplished something. Place the book or paper infront of the camera for 15 seconds. This will act as a chapter break. This way when your zooming though the footage you can get to spots eaiser.
Not only that but when your taking the car apart. Take most of the section your working with apart and then place it back together when your able. Take a video of that and you removing things that way. It makes for better videos.
So in the case of the bumper. Nobody is going to want to watch you take the bumper off for 45min or so. While you look for tools try to get clips and hoses or lines off. So what I would suggest is to take the bumper off and then slide it back into position. Have the screws in your hand and then just point out what needs to be done to take the bumper off. Then now that the bumper is off and just placed in place slide the bumper off and expose all of the sticking points. It makes for a better video IMHO. Same thing with the motor harness. Get everything unplugged and then just shoot a video on whre everything goes.
What I would do if I was you. I would hold off on the cats. Put in a v band connection in the section between the manifolds and the catback. From there just put in regular pipe. Down the line if you really think there is smell. you can always put in cats easy. Just fab up cats and fit them in the V band section. That’s what ALL the mustang guys do. It works like a charm. You don’t need the expensive V bands either so its a cheap way to have options.
IMHO you don’t want to pull the cats and then just put cats back in if you don’t need it. And 100 cell cats are ok but long term they can clog and then run more restrictive than your OEM cats,
As mentioned before you best defense is going to be getting a JHM full catless tune. Just eliminate the cat warm up and cat purge feature. The rich smell people smell is the cat purge and the cat warm up. When both of those are removed your car is running stoich
very true about the V band clamps, I was thinking that last night while going to bed. The cat gutting is a decision which needs to be made either 1/0, but anything aft wards…can always modify as i see fit down the line.
Regarding exhaust sizing. 2.75" is ideal, but hard to come by. I have plenty 2.5 and 3" stainless vbands laying around but no 2.75. This leave me with either 2.5 or 3" from headers back to muffler…What do you think I should run? 3 will slow down the velocity a bit, but should have a deeper tone.
Put together another video tonight. This one is just removing the air boxes and top side hoses. Not too much, but trying to cover as much detail as possible without being too boring.
I have heard 2.75 sounds a little more exotic, while the 3 sounds a little deeper as you described. 2.75 does end up being a rare size as I’ve run into especially at small muffler shops. They generally had to order ahead or had lower inventory.
If you plan to add real headers or a supercharger at some point I would just go with 3 inch. If you plan on sticking with just gutting cats just order some 2.75. If 2.75 is not an option go with 3.
I would put in the 2.5 Vband just behind the header if your making a cat test pipe section another clamp as to create a drop out section that can be used as a section with added cat. From there slow step into a 3" if you want at the X pipe as the X pipe acts as a flow balance so the step won’t be a big deal from there you can keep it 3" but what vtgt said is IMHO correct the 2.75" has a very euro tone keep in mind some of this is going to be dictated by the mufflers and the center section cross section of your X pipe.
Justin thanks for the video editing tips. Good idea about placing the objects back and then just point out the steps for removing it.
I fried the new to me go pro last night, the charger dint like my shop power strips, so didnt get video of removing the motor mount bolts and driveshaft, but the way you described it, all is not lost and it will actually be better, just showing what needs to come out in what order, rather than watching me bumble around for tools.
I did pick up another Hero3+ today, came with a broken lens one, may be able to rob the MOBO from it and resurrect the “old” one, possibly do some picture in picture or 2 angle stuff.
I think it was a great thing when you think about it. with like the drive shaft make sure the drive shaft is unbolted and broken free of its bond with the flange. Those two things can take 1/2 an hour and that would make for a long not super exciting video. But if you have the drive shaft off and you just finger tight one bolt in. You can spend a small amount of time talking and showing what was in the way and what you ran into along the way.
From what I have seen and myself found. You have about 2min of attention from people before they need to see something new. Its not often people have 15min to sit through videos but if your content is quick and you list out what you’ve done in the discryption I think that will be gold for you.
I just know when I’m looking for a DIY I tend to go for the shorter but more indepth. But your 100% right while I will happily watch even tho I"ve pulled an S8 motor with CV for him to build headers. Still watching you can be fun but yes if your spending 20min looking for tools video taping your self dropping your sockets and picking them up and then fighting with a drive shaft bolt for 10 min. There is a chance that myself and others might not be back to watch future vids.
I hope you see this as more helpful than harmful. If you get really stuck PM my your a MI guy I and maybe a few experienced guys can come by and help if you need it. Espically now that its getting liveable outside.
So one thing i fudged already-2 driveshafts bolts stripped on me. Hammered in a alrher allen, strill stripped, so cut the heads off, then realized there is not enough compression even lowering the hanger to get it off…
I ended up cutting it between the trans and ds flange so i got metal dust all in the grease of the driveshaft, now need to spend a good 2 hours surgically cleaning it.
At least i dodnt move it much after so hopefully the thick grease cought most of it hefore it penetrated further and into the joint…
Engine is unbolted and sitting on the table, just waiting to have time to video the unbolting/cutting fiasco and show the actual liftoff…still dont know if i have enough clearance to pull it all out from under the car…
Put together the last video with the crappy cams. Messed up the edit and ended up deleting the original files so couldn’t remake it with no time stamp… All future videos are much much better audio and video.
Here is part 3. More topside hoses, strut brace and wiring harness removal.
https://youtu.be/MjYTL6sR00w
PS she is out as of tonight! that will be in part 4.
A few thoughts.
1 I would stringly suggest you reduce the time on things and consider just showing bolt hole locations and bolt location then remove. I fastforwarded your liner part as it was 5min of doing something simple
you really should have removed the front end first. Trying to take the rad hose off that way is a waste of time. If you pull the front clip and bumper your life would have been 200x eaiser and qucker and you wouldn’t have broken anything.
Honestly I would highly suggest you pull the front end and core support. Your life will be much easier.
Thanks Justin. I have since adjusted my video recording/editing since this video as it was recorded before your earlier suggestion. Im going to look up the front end removal, Im sure ti will make reinstalling the engine much quicker.
Got like an inch of clearance at the front, and a C-hair between the frame rails.
Does the front right upper motor mount come off with the front clip? THat was a tight squeeze and it did chip the bolt boss on the right cam cover on its way down.
Subframe bolts to body are TTY and says to always replace. darn another 30$ added to the list…just to change some silicone sealant…
Just want to confirm these are the part numbers:
front huge one: m14x155 PN:N 91001302
Rear M14x100 PN: N 91001402
Engine is out, walk around and look at some grimy greasy spots that all need resealing
Nice work; I like the idea of video documenting maintenance work for others to learn from. Exciting things going on over here in the S8 section! I think I should get out of the S6 section more often… ha
Front right upper engine mount, mine was completely separated…Is there an aftermarket equivelant, friggin 250 for an OEM unit?!
OEM PN 4E0199267S