I may be a troll but you’re a tool. Every. Time.
Gents, I will post the time slips and videos asap. I’m sorry I’m not jumping through hoops quickly enough for some of you. I have some technical difficulties and my son, the technician, works. I will log asap as well. That may not happen until next week. The name callers have plenty of meat to chew on for right now. Thanks
I did 3-6.
Oddly enough my best 60 ft., 1.68, was my very last run. All four wheels hopped simultaneously 3 or 4 times but then all grabbed. Other times I could feel each wheel searching for traction starting with right front, right rear, left rear and finally left front. Most runs rears were doing the spinning.
but…
[quote=skywagon on AZ] I thought I had discovered a way to keep it in 1st up to 7000 rpm, lock it in first, let the governor shift it out of 1st at 7000 rpm, a designed safety item because the shift does happen quickly, and then after the shift simply move the lever left to “S”. Even this stupid old fart is capable of a simple procedure like that. However, that did not work yesterday.
[/quote]
skywagon, read this. No insults, no bs. Just read this and please reply.
Here’s my resume.
I have made about 200 dragstrip passes in my AWD Audis. I have watched another 5000-6000 passes in other cars, and about 1000 of those passes are AWD Audis. I have watched probably 150 passes by B8 S4s. They range from 11.7@119 to stock B8s running low 13s@106. Some are APR, some GIAC, some REVO. Some spun, and some didn’t. NONE of them were off by 5 mph from what they ‘should’ be running.
A maxed out TVSr1320 should make, comfortably, about 525 hp on these cars…that’s about 400-425 to the wheels on a normal non-ballbreaker dyno. Your car appears to be making about 40-50 whp LESS than it ‘should’ as it takes about 10 whp to make 1 MPH of trap speed (weight being equal).
A little bit of spin is not going to hurt your ET too much, and it is DEFINITELY not going to hurt your trap speeds. In fact, spinning tires too much leads to better trap speeds. It’s voodoo science, I know, but it’s true. The car grabs HARD when it spins too much and when it grabs, it is immediately moving. It’s bad for ET (1-3 tenths if the spinning is terrible) but it actually HELPS your MPH. Unless you are spinning the back end out sideways (I’m talking getting 30-40 degrees off line) and you get out of it, there’s no way that wheelspin is your problem. OK?
If you talk about spinning tires for one more minute in the pursuit of understanding why you are running 4-5 tenths and 4-5 MPH worse than other tuned and pullied S4s on race gas, you are basically saying to the world that you’re not interested in learning, and you’re not interested in going faster.
You are saying that you have an idea in your head, and despite far more experienced guys telling you what’s actually happening, you’re instead going to trust your gut.
If this is the case, that’s fine. Please stop posting about it though. You’re wasting our time by keeping up the charade that you are here for our help.
Skywagon do you understand how QUATTRO works?
I’d assume the tire with the most grip gets the power?
Saki, thank you for the civility. Perhaps, rather than being beat over the head with name calling I’ll do my best to digest your writings with a little more enthusiasm? I’m not here trolling or looking for trouble. I’m losing boost at high RPM from about 16.9 @ 5500 RPM down to about 15.7 at about 6800 RPM. GIAC is an expensive option but not out of the question. Thanks.
This is the biggest load of horseshit that will be posted to the Internet today, which is impressive.
First, sakimano has never done a 1/4 mile in a B8 S4 himself. I don’t know what qualifies him to tell you how to operate your car, when he’s never done it himself. It’s a complete farce that he or anyone on this thread can help you with text replies on this website. The most useful thing to come of any of these 1/4 mile threads is when an experienced person agrees to meet you at the track for instruction. Literally all of these threads are masturbation.
Second, no 3.0TFSI is making 525 crank horsepower, except for the Eurocode motors with built heads that have 200 hour service life before a rebuild. I have one of the most highly tuned S4’s and it makes about 370 whp on an honest Mustang dyno. Perhaps it could make near 400 HP on 105 octane bottled fuel. I’m curious and I’d like to test it. Optimistically that’s a theoretical 475 crank horsepower.
Third, I think Skywagon has achieved something pretty awesome. A retired pilot, characterised as hapless by rude anonymous forum bullies, running half a second faster than Sakimano has ever gone on land. I applaud his results even if they don’t fit into everyone’s Excel models for the theoretical best time possible. Gasoline cars are pretty fucking inconsistent and always will be. That doesn’t mean skypilot is senile. It means German cars are temperamental, which is evident in how popular these forums are. Shit is always broken.
16.9 doesn’t sound terrible…the other guys with B8 logging history can probably comment on that.
If you’re losing 2-3 PSI, that’s certainly enough to impact your top end speeds to the extent we’ve seen. Surprising that REVO is bleeding boost in that fashion. Conditions were perfect, gas was great.
I believe they tune a bit differently. They run significant timing, and from APR’s private messages which expose that they were stealing REVO code, it appears REVO ratchets UP some of the thresholds for safety stuff to kick in and pull timing…in other words they increase the threshold allowing more fun before the fun police kick in. Considering we have never seen a REVO car pull timing, this sounds accurate. They are doing lots in the tune to allow ignition timing levels staying high, but in order to do so, they are bleeding boost. This is a bit different. APR and GIAC are basically slamming the boost bypass shut, but are allowing timing to be pulled in sub-optimal power conditions.
So that’s a fundamental difference, but I don’t get why your car (and all REVO cars) is bleeding off boost in ideal conditions with great DA and a great cooling system and catless exhaust. That doesn’t make sense. It appears their car is being ‘too safe’ which most people wouldn’t think is synonymous with REVO.
Right out of the gate:
Can you read West? He isn’t telling anyone how to operate their vehicle.
Do you really consider yourself part of the B8 S4 platform? because based on this post you are fucking oblivious to EVERYTHING, not just how to shift quicker in the 1/4 mile.
PM me if you need help understanding how to read this. Or ask any of the engineers on the site.
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_127898.gif
west, Seriously man shut up you really have no clue! Go rant on a P-car forum, drive the coxster, pick new seats, etc. Just don’t try to talk about drag racing and data logging because honestly you don’t get it…
Sky, For the last time your custom Revo dyno tune is bypassing lots of boost in the upper rpm’s and gears. I’ve already seen logs I know what is happening… Do us all a favor… Grab your laptop and go do a 1-3 gear pull while logging boost, bypass, timing, and retard… Let me know if I need to specify the fields but hopefully you have them since we’ve been over this before… You’ll see from these logs lots of #'s over 10 in the rfp_av field, which means your bypass is bleeding boost and thus you are trapping what a tune only pump gas car should trap… A good tune will., especially in the DA’s you had will show 0’s and thus make more power and trap higher… Trust me I’ve seen more logs on these cars than probably anybody and I have no reason to try and decieve you… Please just go do that it will take 5 minutes…
LOL!!! This, coming from one of the most infamous trolls on any Audi forum.
Seriously, why are you on here? You clearly don’t read the fucking screen. You refuse to acknowledge the scores of B8s that have run deep into the 11s on race fuel and well-sorted mods. You refuse to take advice from the knowledgeable people on here. You contribute NOTHING.
So again, what’s your purpose here? If it’s to troll, you’ll be karma’d out of AR existence in short order.
How about finding another forum to spread your loads of horseshit.
Skywagon good response just know all this gold advice being given to you is because even tho you might not fully understand it these guys here have already been through what you are going through. Sakimano is right and he knows what he’s talking about. You have about 9 very successful guys backing up exactly what he’s saying. Take some time when you can and take Primetime up on his offer. I would bet he will be able to make graphs to post and show everyone what your experiencing. I know your very excited about your car. Think about how helpful it is having this information and thunk about how great it is that you can help add help to further owners going down your same path.
or how about just acting like a normal rational person for a few minutes. He seems somewhat normal and clear in the handling threads. Once it’s about acceleration he loses his marbles, and starts vomiting bad information.
to be honest, what’s the point of logging timing and retardation? we know the timing params. High. We know the timing pull. Zero. 
boost and bypass are interesting
Primetime, what is peak boost in decent DA (around 0 feet)? What is it at 6000 and 7000 on a healthy car? I would assume with RPMs it should be climbing pretty steadily if the bypass is closed.
He said he saw 16.9 early on, falling off towards redline.
I will do so ASAP. Patience please sir?
Saki, Few things… Obviously there will be variation from car to car, gear to gear, slight pulley variation in size, and efficiency of motor. On top of that vagcom measures hpa so you need to convert and most folks I’ve seen don’t write down the true atmospheric pressure to subtract from the hpa reading before multiplying by 0.014503774 to get psi. So if you use 1,000 and it should be 950 you are understating boost and if you use 1,000 and it should be 1,050 you are overstating boost… With that being said I’d say a properly operating pullied S4 should see between 16-19 psi at redline or very close at zero DA probably about 18psi… I just quickly reviewed a few logs and in 4th gear around 6K rpm you’ll see .5-1 psi less than 7K rpm… I’d have to look at more to give a definitive but based on a few from my car that is the delta. The boost range is suprisingly large but I think it’s more a reflection of the things I mentioned initially and even more so what the true weather conditions and elevation was while logging… In this situation the focus needs to be on bypass as that is the problem, revo can’t seem to keep the boost going into the motor…
I suggested logging timing and retard in addition to boost and bypass in anticipation of some folks bringing up timing when Sky shows his results so I’d like the same log to show average timing values, NO retard, and lots of bypass… Not picking on Sky here but he’s using a boost gauge which from my previous experience are sometime less accurate and it is trusting his eye and vision with it and the tach, IE data logging records the values so there is no eyeing it and remembering… Hope that makes sense…
Sky, I’m more than patient I just would like to see you take some action vs contiuing to have all this back and forth… Go take a quick drive and we can put this to bed and focus on getting revo to fix their shitty tune… Otherwise your car is going to be a total turd come late spring/summer…